Under the Joint Collar of Brunswick Hoppe Pro cue..

jaetee

rack master ;)
Silver Member
Can anyone of you who has worked on a fair number of Brunswick 2-piece cues confirm to me if it was common for Brunswick to drill a tiny hole through the wood and joint pin and insert a little metal dowel under the brass joint collar of the 2-piece Hoppe Professional cues?

Here is a photo of the area I'm talking about:

1zqezi9.jpg


Was this necessary due to known weakness of adhesives available during the era? That pin is in there solid as a rock, but the glue used on the joint and ferrules seems to have gotten brittle over the years and started to fail after I started hitting a few balls with the cue...

Since taking the photo, I've epoxied everything back together. But not before I carefully taped up the collar and the ring to make sure I did not end up with any unwanted glue residue on the outside of the cue. Cue still looks entirely original and hits great.

But, if this technique was used on all of the Hoppe Professional cues, what does that say about the adhesives used between the veneer layers and in the splices of the Pro and 1-piece titlist cues? Are those glued areas subject to failure over time as well?
 

Sunchaser

Belgian Malinois
Silver Member
Yes I found the same retaining pin on a Pro model cue I took the pin out. I too think it was done to secure the joint pin. My cue is a wrapless conversion and my main player.
 

jaetee

rack master ;)
Silver Member
Yes I found the same retaining pin on a Pro model cue I took the pin out. I too think it was done to secure the joint pin. My cue is a wrapless conversion and my main player.

Thanks...

Next question would be whether any of the Hoppe "Pro" model cues did not have that retaining pin?
 

ideologist

I don't never exaggerate
Silver Member
Thanks...

Next question would be whether any of the Hoppe "Pro" model cues did not have that retaining pin?



Yes, lots. It seems like they did it if the hole was drilled out too big. I have had several of both styles. I currently have a very early BRW Hoppe Pro with no pin, and a late 40s Master Stroke that had the pin. I have also had early cues with pins and late cues with no pins.

The old hide glue has trouble with areas that shrink and swell, but for the veneers, it is amazing. The veneers RARELY separate. They whole point may lift out of the maple, but the veneers are like a single piece of wood it penetrated so well.
 
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cueaddict

Registered
Can flaked out veneers be fixed,I have a 261/2 some of the veneers have broken out


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