3x10 Pin Removal Help

Raildriver

Raildriver

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm attempting to remove a difficult 3/8 x10 pin. I have removed several pins and usually with ease. However, this pin appears to have been bent below the collar and there is some cracking at the end of the forearm indicating a pissed off player. Anyway, I've heated the pin several times and just when I think its moving, I see the cue turning in the headstock:mad: . I have never had to put this much torque on a pin removal before. I'm a little afraid of damaging the forearm if I really put much more torque on this guy, and figured I would send out this SOS before I did. Any ideas would be helpful. Thx, Raildriver
 
Raildriver said:
I'm attempting to remove a difficult 3/8 x10 pin. I have removed several pins and usually with ease. However, this pin appears to have been bent below the collar and there is some cracking at the end of the forearm indicating a pissed off player. Anyway, I've heated the pin several times and just when I think its moving, I see the cue turning in the headstock:mad: . I have never had to put this much torque on a pin removal before. I'm a little afraid of damaging the forearm if I really put much more torque on this guy, and figured I would send out this SOS before I did. Any ideas would be helpful. Thx, Raildriver
Click to expand...

My first question is why are you puting the cue in the headstock? I suggest you just hold it in your hand while very slowly heat the pin. Every couple of minutes try to remove the pin with a pair of channel locks. You must remove the channel locks while heating or they will become a heat sink. The main thing is that you heat it very slowly (I do not let the pin turn red) and they come out without fail and no damage to the cue. If you heat it too hot you will damage the forearm, collars, glue and finish.

Good Cuemaing,
 
Arnot, thanks for the tip. I will try your method (heat slow-turns easy). Thanks Raildriver
 
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