Aiming With A Smaller Cue Ball

Pidge

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm referring to English Pool, but the concept is the same for any game that has a smaller cue ball. In English pool the OBs are 2 inches and the CB is 1 7/8 of an inch. It makes aiming slightly different than if all balls were the same size.

I want to start out by saying I aim in English Pool from experience and HAMB method but recently I paid attention to what goes on when I aim. I noticed I'm basically doing "shaft aiming". A section of my shaft is lined up to the contact point. I line the inside edge of my ferrule (note its not my tip I use as its severely mushroomed and that what I like playing with) to the contact point whilst aiming through centre cue ball. I do this for any shot upto, and including a half ball hit. Anything thinner than a half ball hit my shaft is aiming outside of the OB so this is where HAMB comes into play.

I bring the topic up because tonight I missed a shot where I was under pressure, I got down not thinking but I was on the right aim line and the ball would have gone in, but for what ever reason I got up. When up I went through the process of aiming part of my shaft at the contact point, got down and instantly it didn't look right - I have what I'd call a "green light" in my head that when I get down turns on if the shot is going in, or doesn't if the shot looks wrong. I thought screw it I've gone through the process, it must be going in. It missed, didn't even hit the jaws of the pocket and I haven't done that in a long time.

So my question is, what aiming methods would you suggest for a set of balls with a 1/8 of an inch smaller CB? Hopefully I can find one that works that I can use the next time I'm in a pressure situation.
 
I'm referring to English Pool, but the concept is the same for any game that has a smaller cue ball. In English pool the OBs are 2 inches and the CB is 1 7/8 of an inch. It makes aiming slightly different than if all balls were the same size.

I want to start out by saying I aim in English Pool from experience and HAMB method but recently I paid attention to what goes on when I aim. I noticed I'm basically doing "shaft aiming". A section of my shaft is lined up to the contact point. I line the inside edge of my ferrule (note its not my tip I use as its severely mushroomed and that what I like playing with) to the contact point whilst aiming through centre cue ball. I do this for any shot upto, and including a half ball hit. Anything thinner than a half ball hit my shaft is aiming outside of the OB so this is where HAMB comes into play.

I bring the topic up because tonight I missed a shot where I was under pressure, I got down not thinking but I was on the right aim line and the ball would have gone in, but for what ever reason I got up. When up I went through the process of aiming part of my shaft at the contact point, got down and instantly it didn't look right - I have what I'd call a "green light" in my head that when I get down turns on if the shot is going in, or doesn't if the shot looks wrong. I thought screw it I've gone through the process, it must be going in. It missed, didn't even hit the jaws of the pocket and I haven't done that in a long time.

So my question is, what aiming methods would you suggest for a set of balls with a 1/8 of an inch smaller CB? Hopefully I can find one that works that I can use the next time I'm in a pressure situation.

Had the same problem in a tryny a few days ago. The cb was so worn it was actually 1/8" smaller than the ob. Through my aiming systems right down the drain. They wouldn't work on anything over about a 30 degree cut.

What I had to do is immediately revert back to my old bar playing days. Where the cb was way oversized. The way I aimed then was just from HAMB. Hard to revert back "on a dime", but did the best I could. Still missed shots I normally would have no problem with, but still got far in the tryny doing it. Just have to have experience, and then let the subconscious take over the aiming. Try not to think about it, just realize the smaller cb and let your mind do the adjustments for you.
 
Is there any particular reason for the difference in size?
Because most have a coin mechanism for use in pubs, the white ball had to be smaller to fit down a different "track" within the pool table so people didn't have to keep putting money in the table every time they scratched. Since we weren't smart enough when the game was invented to use a magnetic cue ball, the tradition of a smaller cue ball has stuck.

It brings all kinds of problems with aiming being low on that list. First on the list would be the follow shot with power. The smaller cue ball takes to the sky, and if you accidentally hit with too much follow on the break you are asking for the cue ball to fly over the British Channel and land somewhere in the French Riviera. On the plus side drawing the cue ball is a dream :)
 
I think I would avoid playing the game if the cue ball and OB are different sizes. This can have a terrible effect on your programmed sighting techniques.

If the cue ball is slightly smaller than the OB, then they do not connect at the same equatorial height from the table bed, which means that the cue ball actually hits the OB slightly lower and in this case actually creates a thicker hit than if the two balls were the same size.

While the effect may be minimal on short shots, they would be very observable on longer shots. Given the smaller diameter of the pockets, it may be recognizable in both events.

If you've programmed your sighting for equal sized balls and apply that technique here you may find yourself under cutting most shots. This is OK if your just batting balls around the table but if you're a serious player this might mess around with your subconscious internal programming.
 
I think I would avoid playing the game if the cue ball and OB are different sizes. This can have a terrible effect on your programmed sighting techniques.

If the cue ball is slightly smaller than the OB, then they do not connect at the same equatorial height from the table bed, which means that the cue ball actually hits the OB slightly lower and in this case actually creates a thicker hit than if the two balls were the same size.

While the effect may be minimal on short shots, they would be very observable on longer shots. Given the smaller diameter of the pockets, it may be recognizable in both events.

If you've programmed your sighting for equal sized balls and apply that technique here you may find yourself under cutting most shots. This is OK if your just batting balls around the table but if you're a serious player this might mess around with your subconscious internal programming.
The thicker contact is true but it is very minimal. I only notice them when playing a ball touching or very close to touching a rail. Shots are missed because any slight touch before the pocket against a rail and the pocket rejects it. I estimate from playing it I adjust the potting angle by 5 degrees at most.

My subconcious is programmed to pocket balls no matter what game; English Pool, American Pool and Snooker. I've played all games enough and have hit over a million balls in each, maybe falling short in American pool. If I don't try and over think I make the ball, regardless of angle and spin. But its harder than you think to not think...if that makes sense. The problem I had was the shaft aiming method I realised I used, and got up and got back down whilst conciously thinking of where what section of the shaft was pointing on the OB and missed because the system has flaws.

I have a table in my attic that doesn't get played on. Much more fun to play on the 9 footer in the basement! I may just have to spend some time at the 7x4.5 table and work on a method of concious aim for the game. I know there is one to be figured out, I just have to take the time to figure it out.
 
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... If the cue ball is slightly smaller than the OB ,,, creates a thicker hit than if the two balls were the same size. ...

I think you have that reversed. If you are aiming the center of the CB a particular distance from the center of the OB (at the edge of the OB, for instance), a smaller CB will create a larger cut angle than a larger CB.
 
I think you have that reversed. If you are aiming the center of the CB a particular distance from the center of the OB (at the edge of the OB, for instance), a smaller CB will create a larger cut angle than a larger CB.

Correct, you will tend to overcut everything until your minds eye adjusts to it. Likewise, using the big cb's, you will undercut everything for a while.
 
Cutting a frozen to the rail shot is very difficult with a larger cueball.

Our locals use a small ball because it's easier to draw. We used to call them "quickdraw."

Also, the small ball doesn't like to go forward and visa versa.
 
I've used my table in the attic to try figure out an aiming system for a smaller CB for atleast 10 hours now. I can't get one that works consistently enough for me.

SEE - good on thick shots, and angle ranges do have to be altered to fit within the categories of SEE, but I have trouble with 35-50 degree shots. They rattle, or in some cases miss the jaw completely.

Pro One - doesn't work, and was never designed to work in this situation. Real shame. Works for straight ins perfectly, but any kind of cut - thicker cuts are more accurate, and the more angle the larger the miss - results in a miss, or near miss. I'm sure Stan could advise me on what adjustments need to be made with a smaller CB, so I may have to drop him a message.

Equal Overlap - don't know the name of it, but its what Jimmy Reid uses. Find the CB contact point, and on the same spot on the 'other' side of the CB is the CB contact point. Line these together and parallel shift to centre. Found it works well on very thin hits, but anything else is pot luck.

So, by trying various methods I have systems for straight, thick and very thin angles. I will need to test a few more to find what works best for medium-thick, medium and medium thin angles. May seem like overkill at first, but I'm sure ill get used to it.
 
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