I was wondering if a few UV lamps in my homemade spray booth could do a nice job and leave a very hard clear finish? Anyone have any luck, good or bad with it?
Anyone tried to use UV cured clear coats?
- Thread starter olsonsview
- Start date
so rhn...
to put it mildly, it sucks? I have a low speed motor to turn the cue while drying already, I thought a bank of a few lights that I swing into place would do it, but it sounds like it is not worth the effort? I just want to put on a really durable finish, I thought that UV might be the way to go. Do you like standard air dried finishes better? Maybe two part catlyzed or urethane? Can you tell me what is the reason that UV is so bad? I appreciate any input, I am trying to learn...thanks!
to put it mildly, it sucks? I have a low speed motor to turn the cue while drying already, I thought a bank of a few lights that I swing into place would do it, but it sounds like it is not worth the effort? I just want to put on a really durable finish, I thought that UV might be the way to go. Do you like standard air dried finishes better? Maybe two part catlyzed or urethane? Can you tell me what is the reason that UV is so bad? I appreciate any input, I am trying to learn...thanks!
olsonsview said:
This is one area where Dickie and I don't totally agree. I've had very limited success using the UV finish alone, primarily because it won't buff out nearly as well as the Automotive Urethanes. I also had problems, especially around the ringwork, before I found out about a certain product (from Dickie actually) that acts as an insulator and helps the finish bond to the different materials in a cue. I, as I believe Dickie still does, use a UV finish as a build up coat over the insulator, then after it's well sealed, use the Automotive Clear over that. It sounds like a complicated process but works better than anything else I've tried in the last 25 years!
I think the original poster of this thread may have been confused about UV finishes and lights. He may have been confused with the lights used on automobiles to bake the finish! That is a different process! The finishes used on cars have a chemical catylist something like an epoxy that will cure and harden whether there's light or not. The lights they use just speed up the drying time and helps the solvents to evaporate. A true UV finish is one part and the catylist is the correct spectrum of UV light. Without the correct spectrum of UV light the finish will not harden. My UV light is one of the "focused" vareity which I guess, most of the cuemakers arent using because it has to be aimed accurately and at a specific distance from the cue. My light will completely cure the finish on a cue in about 10 seconds. Then I usually have to put on at least 3-5 filler or build up coats, scuff sanding between coats, to get it ready for the final Auto Clearcoat. Often the UV looks great alone, but when you have to match shafts to butts, or do any sanding at the transition areas (by the wrap usually) it's nearly impossible to get it buffed back up to the luster cue buyers want! This is the reason for the Auto Clear. It buffs up much better but will not fill as well.
just more hot air!
Sherm