Hey all. I recently bought a couple of cues and whenever I get a new to me cue, I check the weight and balance point. I do this using a straightness checker on a smaller scale that I have. I am not claiming scientific accuracy, but here is what I noticed. When weighing butt only of cue 1(similar result with cue 2 as well), the balance point seems to be about 2.5-3 inches below the A-joint (correct me if I am wrong, where the handle and forearm meet). That would seem that the cue(butt) is center weighted, but once a shaft is added, the balance point seems to shift to about 2.5 inches forward of the A-joint. Is this planned and executed when building a cue or ?
Balance point of cue (intentional or ?)
- Thread starter Rackaday
- Start date
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
A good cuemaker can do a lot with balance points locations through different materials, wood densities, and what pins used throughout. They make them how they feel a cue should behave, or may do custom orders to the customer's expectations, including balance point.
Or it can just be made and whatever it is it is. Some makers don't use weight bolts, some do.
Light wood can be cored with heavier wood, heavy wood can be cored with lighter wood.
Or it can just be made and whatever it is it is. Some makers don't use weight bolts, some do.
Light wood can be cored with heavier wood, heavy wood can be cored with lighter wood.
Yes, I am aware of the coring from a birds-eye (pun intended) perspective, but I think I have been a little more conscious of checking for it and comparing the balance point both of butt only, as well as complete cue in the last couple weeks. I have 2 cues that I think I shoot the best with and noticed that the balance point is very similar, even if there is an almost 1oz (overall) weight difference. I would assume an experienced cue maker has a strong opinion on where that balance point should be, but considering we don’t all use a matched butt/shaft, perhaps a randomly paired butt/shaft that works for one player might not work for someone else. Just my thought.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
My wife and I each have a Diveney cue. Hers was made in 2010, and mine was made in 2021. They are wildly different woods and in those years Pat switched from defaulting to a radial pin to 3/8-10 modified. If you pick both cues up, the balance point plays a huge roll. Hers is a bit heavier than mine but both cues almost feel as if they are levitating in your hand. They almost feel alive... due to balance point. They both feel like a Diveney regardless of weight.
I guess it's an illustration of what Pat (and many of his customers) think a cue should feel like in your hand. I love it. When I bought mine I didn't ask the weight, nor did I care. It felt alive or like it was levitating in my hand, just like my wife's cue.
Every good cue maker eventually arrives at their ideal cue. It may be planned out meticulously from the get go, or they may have arrived through trial and error. There is now software to calculate this stuff, but it can be figured pretty accurately with hand calculation and observation.
The neat part is, every cue maker might have a different idea of what an ideal cue is. Then you get a customer who wants a rear heavy cue or a front heavy cue... which can be done, but it might be completely different than what the cue maker personally likes. That's ok as long as it's the ideal cue for the customer.
Personally, I'd rather trust the cuemaker and if I like it, I'll buy from them if I need another cue. It's like on the movie Tommy Boy "I can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking my head up a bull's ass, but I'd rather take a butcher's word for it."