I plan on doing basic cue repair. tips, shaft cleaning, wraps, butt refinishing. basic stuff. my question is........ can I use a regular wood lathe for these basic repairs? I was planning on making some sort of adjustable tool holder for it. & other modifications to make it fit for cue repair. what do you guys think? any ideas? this ask the cuemaker forum has been very helpfull.. thanks.
beginner question?
- Thread starter seven
- Start date
seven said:
A wood lathe does not make a very good repair lathe.
You need a machine lathe.
To do tip and ferrule work you want the shaft to pass thru the headstock and have the tip and ferrule stick out past the jaws. Same with joint and butt work. The hole size thru the spindle is very important.
There are some repair lathes that are made just for repair work and the advantage of buying one of them is that it comes all set up with most of the accessorys you need and saves you the time and trouble of modifying a metal lathe.
Unique Products, Chris Hightower, and Porper are three that come to mind as a good cue repair lathe. Bludworth also makes some great advanced cuemaking machinery. The quality of your tools will have a direct infulence on the quality of your work.
I am sure the other cuemakers here can add more to this and help you make the right choice.
repair
I beg to differ with Wille.
I used a wood Lathe for years doing the work your speaking of.
I do agree with Wille about ferrules, joint rings and butt plates. You need a larger lathe that is real steady.
These wood lathes, I sold over 400 of them [ built for re-pair lathe's]way back when i was the only traveling repair shop. I made jigs and fixtures for them. They worked for me for many years.You can buy a chuck that will screw on to the head stock.Then buy the joint pins you need.
If you going to do tips, clean shafts, re-shape shafts, do wraps, and compound butts, the wood lathe is best for that. Today, I still use a wood lathe to do all your looking forward to doing, on and off the road...
Painting is better done by holding the cue in one hand, and paint gun in the other..No dust in your paint job.... The lathe i use, is a JET, 12"X36".. About $520.00....Weight is about 100 lbs, make it easy for a traveling pro-shop..
call me and I'll get you headed in the right direction.
blud
830-232-5991
seven said:
I beg to differ with Wille.
I used a wood Lathe for years doing the work your speaking of.
I do agree with Wille about ferrules, joint rings and butt plates. You need a larger lathe that is real steady.
These wood lathes, I sold over 400 of them [ built for re-pair lathe's]way back when i was the only traveling repair shop. I made jigs and fixtures for them. They worked for me for many years.You can buy a chuck that will screw on to the head stock.Then buy the joint pins you need.
If you going to do tips, clean shafts, re-shape shafts, do wraps, and compound butts, the wood lathe is best for that. Today, I still use a wood lathe to do all your looking forward to doing, on and off the road...
Painting is better done by holding the cue in one hand, and paint gun in the other..No dust in your paint job.... The lathe i use, is a JET, 12"X36".. About $520.00....Weight is about 100 lbs, make it easy for a traveling pro-shop..
call me and I'll get you headed in the right direction.
blud
830-232-5991
thanks for your reply all.
blud...I saw you at the vally forge expo. you actually cleaned my shaft.
stupid me didnt even bother to look at what type of lathe you were using.
anyway...now I know. I think I will get the wood lathe. until I get enough money to get a proper one. I guess replacing ferulles are out of the question. I was thinking about making something similar to a steady rest. just one bearing with a inner diameter of about 16mm. then I could use a plastic collar as a shim so that it wont damage the shaft. then all I need is some sort of an adjustable tool holder. if all this works then maybe I will be able to do feurells also. what do you think? also what is a good minimum & maximun rpm for a lathe? thanks alot for all your advise.
blud...I saw you at the vally forge expo. you actually cleaned my shaft.
stupid me didnt even bother to look at what type of lathe you were using.
anyway...now I know. I think I will get the wood lathe. until I get enough money to get a proper one. I guess replacing ferulles are out of the question. I was thinking about making something similar to a steady rest. just one bearing with a inner diameter of about 16mm. then I could use a plastic collar as a shim so that it wont damage the shaft. then all I need is some sort of an adjustable tool holder. if all this works then maybe I will be able to do feurells also. what do you think? also what is a good minimum & maximun rpm for a lathe? thanks alot for all your advise.
lathe
Hi 7, You might want to hold off buying a new re-pair lathe. Iam building one that will give the others the 3 and out. No bull. Mine will cost a little more, but like we all know, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR............
Just got so much going, can't seem to stay on the lathe project. I WILL TRY HARDER.
stay tuned.
blud
seven said:thanks for your reply all.
blud...I saw you at the vally forge expo. you actually cleaned my shaft.
stupid me didnt even bother to look at what type of lathe you were using.
anyway...now I know. I think I will get the wood lathe. until I get enough money to get a proper one. I guess replacing ferulles are out of the question. I was thinking about making something similar to a steady rest. just one bearing with a inner diameter of about 16mm. then I could use a plastic collar as a shim so that it wont damage the shaft. then all I need is some sort of an adjustable tool holder. if all this works then maybe I will be able to do feurells also. what do you think? also what is a good minimum & maximun rpm for a lathe? thanks alot for all your advise.
Hi 7, You might want to hold off buying a new re-pair lathe. Iam building one that will give the others the 3 and out. No bull. Mine will cost a little more, but like we all know, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR............
Just got so much going, can't seem to stay on the lathe project. I WILL TRY HARDER.
stay tuned.
blud
V
((VH))
Guest
seven said:thanks for your reply all.
blud...I saw you at the vally forge expo. you actually cleaned my shaft.
stupid me didnt even bother to look at what type of lathe you were using.
anyway...now I know. I think I will get the wood lathe. until I get enough money to get a proper one. I guess replacing ferulles are out of the question. I was thinking about making something similar to a steady rest. just one bearing with a inner diameter of about 16mm. then I could use a plastic collar as a shim so that it wont damage the shaft. then all I need is some sort of an adjustable tool holder. if all this works then maybe I will be able to do feurells also. what do you think? also what is a good minimum & maximun rpm for a lathe? thanks alot for all your advise.
Just follow what Blud told about putting a 3 jaw chuck. wHEN YOU PUT THAT STEADY REST, THE SHAFT HAS TO BE PERFECTLY STRAIGHT OTHERWISE IT'S GONNA JUMP OUT THE WINDOW
You need a carriage for that tool holder that would move along the ways. Most wood lathes are not equipped with that. They just have a tool rest.
Plus, the rpm requirement will stifle most motors coming with a wood lathe. Neede it when doing finishing work. You need rpms from 80 to around 1950 rpms depending on what work you'll do. If you're keen on getting a lathe, Blud's got it but if your budgets tight get a mini-lathe instead of a wood lathe. They go for as low as $350 to $500 and you could do all the repair there for ferrules and tips. One drawback though is the length of the bed which is 14" max. Better get a bed extension have one made that would fit a shaft or butt that would be great. It could also do threads and other things that you could do on an engine lathe but on a smaller scale.
I'm curious to see what Blud is going to come up with. I have recomended Chris Hightowers, which I think starts at about $850.00. All of the feedback I have had so far from people is positive. I have seen what others offer for basic cue repairs and with out getting in to it, I didn't like them.
Cue repair lathe
I'm not one who believes in a "one machine to do all approach"! A wood lathe is great for certain things, polishing, cleaning shafts, re-wrapping (with a little modification) and other jobs that do not require much precision. What I'd recommend is a wood lathe and one of the small metal lathes sold by harbor freight for a little over $300. The metal lathe can be used for tips, ferrules, making joint protectors and other small jobs that are either not practical or impossible to do on a wood lathe. I'm lucky in that I live in a city with a large manufacturing background. There are always auctions where quality metal working equipment are available at reasonable prices. I use 11 lathes in my shop, mostly dedicated to certain operations. This makes it possible to move from one work station to another doing the necessary operations, instead of reconfiguring one machine to do all. I'm also able to, for instance, glue up ringwork on a shaft on one lathe, and do something else on another while the glue sets up. Keeps you productive instead of waiting or changing the set-ups. One thing I've learned about cuemaking is that there's more than one way to get from "point A" to "point B". No cuemakers start out with a full shop. They often learn to do what needs to be done with what they have available to them, as they accumulate the things needed to do it they way they wish! Good luck and keep your day job!)
Sherm
I'm not one who believes in a "one machine to do all approach"! A wood lathe is great for certain things, polishing, cleaning shafts, re-wrapping (with a little modification) and other jobs that do not require much precision. What I'd recommend is a wood lathe and one of the small metal lathes sold by harbor freight for a little over $300. The metal lathe can be used for tips, ferrules, making joint protectors and other small jobs that are either not practical or impossible to do on a wood lathe. I'm lucky in that I live in a city with a large manufacturing background. There are always auctions where quality metal working equipment are available at reasonable prices. I use 11 lathes in my shop, mostly dedicated to certain operations. This makes it possible to move from one work station to another doing the necessary operations, instead of reconfiguring one machine to do all. I'm also able to, for instance, glue up ringwork on a shaft on one lathe, and do something else on another while the glue sets up. Keeps you productive instead of waiting or changing the set-ups. One thing I've learned about cuemaking is that there's more than one way to get from "point A" to "point B". No cuemakers start out with a full shop. They often learn to do what needs to be done with what they have available to them, as they accumulate the things needed to do it they way they wish! Good luck and keep your day job!
)Sherm
lathe's
Hi Chris, not knocking you or anyone else, my friend. [ not my bag].
My new lathe will have very close tolorances. The re-pair model will cost around $2,500.00, with add on extras [full blown model] , that will allow you to build cues, will run about $4,500.00..........It will still be portable some what, but weight more than others out there.
To have re-peatability, you need mass. Mass is required for close tolorances.
Were cutting wood, and it moves and moves, so you need a very good machine to have repeatability, and good machining capabilities.
Putting 30 plus years of experence in these machines. Just need time to finish up.
blud
cueman said:The "three and out" is a big spot. I will have to build a new lathe if your new one can give mine that much weight and only "cost a little more." Been thinking about it for years, but like you just been too busy.
Hi Chris, not knocking you or anyone else, my friend. [ not my bag].
My new lathe will have very close tolorances. The re-pair model will cost around $2,500.00, with add on extras [full blown model] , that will allow you to build cues, will run about $4,500.00..........It will still be portable some what, but weight more than others out there.
To have re-peatability, you need mass. Mass is required for close tolorances.
Were cutting wood, and it moves and moves, so you need a very good machine to have repeatability, and good machining capabilities.
Putting 30 plus years of experence in these machines. Just need time to finish up.
blud