Butt,points, etc.

Dak21st

Dak21st

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What size blank lengths would a cue maker need to do 4-points?, wrapeless handle?,butt ?, forearm ?. Not all in the same cue as I hope to do a couple different ones but just need a general idea of lengths for each aspect. The wood is 1.5” X 1.5” X varying lengths. Thanks
 
Dak21st said:
What size blank lengths would a cue maker need to do 4-points?, wrapeless handle?,butt ?, forearm ?. Not all in the same cue as I hope to do a couple different ones but just need a general idea of lengths for each aspect. The wood is 1.5” X 1.5” X varying lengths. Thanks
Click to expand...
You must first figure out your game plan in more detail.
Point length. Beginning and finished.
Quick simple math but could change due to your taper.
Forearm beginning for points. Say .940
Finished .840.
You'll lose 1 inch length on your points. It's a guideline.
Length of your forearm, handle and butt bottom.
 
Michael Webb said:
You must first figure out your game plan in more detail.
Point length. Beginning and finished.
Quick simple math but could change due to your taper.
Forearm beginning for points. Say .940
Finished .840.
You'll lose 1 inch length on your points. It's a guideline.
Length of your forearm, handle and butt bottom.
Click to expand...
Should I figure a 1.5” X 1.5” X 13” for a handle or forearm. 5” for a traditional or hoppe butt sleeve, 7” for points.
 
I like 14 for forearms, 18 for handles and at least 4 for buttsleeves.
You didn't say what kind of points, you will need more material for traditional V points.
Full splice is another matter, which I have not tried. But if you're doing a regular A joint between handle and forearm, 18" is pretty standard for buttsleeve and forearm, and 18 inches also works for handles.
 
Dak21st said:
Should I figure a 1.5” X 1.5” X 13” for a handle or forearm. 5” for a traditional or hoppe butt sleeve, 7” for points.
Click to expand...
I like Sheldons numbers.
Length of points is your choice, there is no standard!
For Vee points, the forearm should be long eneogh so the base of the cavity holds the excess epoxy so you don't screw up your center hole.
VERY IMPORTANT!
 

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If you plan on doing veneers. You have to decide which discipline you like.
Mitered or boxed. (overlapped)
Miter, the inner point can be shorter because your gluing it into the veneers so less is needed.
Boxed,
You need full length stock because you are building around the point square.
 
Bill, I just received my HRB back from being stabilized if you need a piece? You know how to contact me. Terry A
 
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