Changing The Break?

[DrCue'sProtege]

do you change your break if you are consistently making balls, but just not getting any decent spreads to run out with? last night i was making balls probably at least 2/3 of the breaks, but i wasnt really getting any decent spreads. just wonder if you posters change your break in situations like that?

DCP

 

[drivermaker]

do you change your break if you are consistently making balls, but just not getting any decent spreads to run out with? last night i was making balls probably at least 2/3 of the breaks, but i wasnt really getting any decent spreads. just wonder if you posters change your break in situations like that?

DCP

Is anybody else beside me starting to hear the opening music theme song to the Twilight Zone being played right now in the background?

Just in case you need help, click here and go to the 9th one from the bottom and click onto it:

http://www.frogstar.com/wav/music.asp

 

[Snapshot9]

Most certainly ...

What is the goal of playing for you?
To break the balls, make a ball, have a good spread where
you can run the rest of the rack, right?

If you are speading them good, but not making a ball, that
works against you, or vica versa, it still works against you.

It may not be you, it could just be the table, weather conditions,
how old the cloth is, balls are dirty, etc..

I am a firm believer that to be fully armed for 8 ball or 9 ball,
that you need to have a minimum of 6 different breaks. You
need to be ready for anything, including getting a rack put
on you by an opponent. I played in a 9 ball tournament recently,
and although I mostly side break 9 ball most of the time now, it
wasn't working so I went to a front break, and it was working
pretty good. In 8 ball, lots of times, a front break will not be
working too good, so I switch to a side break to more consistently
make a ball, and get a decent spread. I really think a good front
break provides a better spread more consistently than a side break
in 8 ball, but if it isn't working, the side break is more reliable.

I have a friend I have watched play a lot, and I have noticed that
even if his 9 ball break is working, he switches it up sometimes, and
particularly when he is breaking and on the hill. Why, well, because
the opponent may be trying to rack him, especially when he is on the
hill, so switching at that time could really be better, or he just might
have some feeling that tells him to switch it.

The best rackers are the ones that do NOT do anything obvious, they
are subtle, but they know they only have to throw the balls in the rack
off by 1/4" or so to keep them from going in the pockets on the break.
What's amusing to me, is that my opponents when trying to undermine
my side break in 9 ball, tilt the rack in the wrong direction, which ends
up helping me on the break instead of stopping me. And, if they finally
do catch on, and tilt it the right direction, I simply switch to a front
break which is favored by the current way they have them racked, usually
making 2 or 3 balls off the break.

Take a hint: Never put your cue ball where you are going to break from
until THE BALLS ARE RACKED, and look at the rack for tightness and alignment before you decide to break. If you get to playing for some larger money,
you will realize how important this hint is.

 

[cubswin]

do you change your break if you are consistently making balls, but just not getting any decent spreads to run out with? last night i was making balls probably at least 2/3 of the breaks, but i wasnt really getting any decent spreads. just wonder if you posters change your break in situations like that?

DCP

to answer you question...yes

I change until I get a break I like, 9 going at the corner and making a few balls with the cueball in the middle.

Its a constant thing, and lately its been better. For awhile it was scratch in the side, or off a ball in the corner and leave a easily run table.

 

[sixpack]

do you change your break if you are consistently making balls, but just not getting any decent spreads to run out with? last night i was making balls probably at least 2/3 of the breaks, but i wasnt really getting any decent spreads. just wonder if you posters change your break in situations like that?

DCP

9-ball? If so, break at about 60-70% speed for a better spread.

Cheers,
Regas

 

[Snapshot9]

I think guys ...

that he talking about 8 ball, not 9 ball. How many
consistently bad spreads do you have in 9 ball? ... think
about it ....

 

[cubswin]

that he talking about 8 ball, not 9 ball. How many
consistently bad spreads do you have in 9 ball? ... think
about it ....

True, but then how often would you practice alone trying to run a 8 ball rack?

Of course if he would be active in his own posts we would know.....hint hint DCP

 

[chefjeff]

(snip)
Take a hint: Never put your cue ball where you are going to break from
until THE BALLS ARE RACKED, and look at the rack for tightness and alignment before you decide to break. If you get to playing for some larger money,
you will realize how important this hint is.

Good advice.....Or, better yet, place the cueball on the opposite side before the racking occurs, then move it to the other side to actually break. This can get a dishonest racker to inadvertently give you a good rack, especially in 8-ball with the second ball hit.

Jeff Livingston

 

[Snapshot9]

Sometimes that is true ...

but not all the time. You have to learn how to read
a rack first. Players have different ways of racking you,
and simply switching sides to break from will not always
work (example, if they are racking you above the spot).

You have to have an idea of how the rack will react from
the way they have racked them. In knowing that, you will
know better where and how (english, etc.) to use to break
them.

Why not just have them rerack, you say... Well, that is 1 option,
but an opponent determined not to give you a good rack will
ALWAYS find a way to put a rack on you, so you have to know
how to overcome what they have done to the rack. Besides, most
people get tired of inspecting racks EVERY single time, and relax
their inspection process after awhile.

You have to read the rack before every break, and not assume
anything, else you will find yourself breaking and not making a ball
then your opponent running out, putting them up in the match
or set, and then when you decide something has to change,
you will be so far behind that your chances of winning the match
or set are so small, that you do not have much of a chance.

It's kind of like trying to catch a smart thief. You wait up night
after night to catch him, but what you aren't aware of is he is
watching you watch for him, so when you say the heck with it,
and go to bed, that is when he strikes.

The psychology in Pool sometimes goes down 4 or 5 levels deep
sometimes.

 

[AuntyDan]

that he talking about 8 ball, not 9 ball. How many
consistently bad spreads do you have in 9 ball? ... think
about it ....

Conincidentally I've been practicing 9 Ball and trying to improve my break consistency. I've reached a frustrating point where (given I'm practicing on the same table and racking for myself) I can consistenly snap the wing ball and squat the cue ball but the 1 keeps banking off the rail about 3 inches short of the side pocket and parking itself in the middle of the head rail, usually leaving nothing but a tough long-rail bank or super thin cut. I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make the fine changes in speed and angle to get the 1 into the side, or to bring the cue ball up-table to stay near the 1 without scratching in the top corner pocket.

The other problem is this break only works consistently on this particular table (A furniture-style 9' with flat rails and old cheap cloth.) On a Gold Crown III with Simonis 860 I cannot get near consistenly making the wing ball without putting a lot more speed into the snap, and this makes keeping the cue ball under control much harder for me. I've noticed that the outward curve of the GC rails seems to result in a slight elevation of the cue whilst breaking off the rail for me.

 

[JPB]

No. Because when this happens it means the problem is the cue. The force coefficient compared to the deflection vector is wrong for the cloth you are playing on. You simply get another one. But you must never recycle one. Just break the break cue and get another one. Try it for a while and post the results.

 

[Ronoh]

do you change your break if you are consistently making balls, but just not getting any decent spreads to run out with?

To me, it depends on the speed of the table. I'll keep my same spot, just adjust the speed of my break stroke at first, then adjust accordingly.

Get one of your friends and practice for about 15 minutes each, just doing breaks. You'll soon start to see a pattern, if you are consistent on where you hit the head ball. Move to a second ball hit if your ambitious.

 

[u12armresl]

DCP

With your skills aren't you supposed to just hit the balls and make 4 everytime and then get shape on the 1? Oh wait don't forget to complain that you didn't make the 9

 

[mjantti]

Conincidentally I've been practicing 9 Ball and trying to improve my break consistency. I've reached a frustrating point where (given I'm practicing on the same table and racking for myself) I can consistenly snap the wing ball and squat the cue ball but the 1 keeps banking off the rail about 3 inches short of the side pocket and parking itself in the middle of the head rail, usually leaving nothing but a tough long-rail bank or super thin cut. I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make the fine changes in speed and angle to get the 1 into the side, or to bring the cue ball up-table to stay near the 1 without scratching in the top corner pocket.

That's why many pros draw the cueball near the end rail if the 1-ball seems to be finding its place near the head rail. I know it sounds stupid, but that's the way to go. Play position for the 1-ball if it constantly stops in certain area.

 

[LastTwo]

How many of you use a safety break when you just can't seem to pocket a ball? I experimented with this about a week ago. Nobody could pocket a ball off the break (9ball) on that table. What I did was I took about 30-40% speed off my break and aimed a little high on the cueball. The result was the cue ball went forward and the one ball went to the other side of the table as usual. My opponent was left with no shot most of the time and had to push. I ended up winning 2 sets, I had control of the table often even though I was pocketing a ball on the break like 10% of the time. I'm not sure if this is a good strategy, but it seemed to work that day. Any opinions on this?

 

[Snapshot9]

Good strategy ...

How many of you use a safety break when you just can't seem to pocket a ball? I experimented with this about a week ago. Nobody could pocket a ball off the break (9ball) on that table. What I did was I took about 30-40% speed off my break and aimed a little high on the cueball. The result was the cue ball went forward and the one ball went to the other side of the table as usual. My opponent was left with no shot most of the time and had to push. I ended up winning 2 sets, I had control of the table often even though I was pocketing a ball on the break like 10% of the time. I'm not sure if this is a good strategy, but it seemed to work that day. Any opinions on this?

LT ... That is good strategy. Many people don't think about doing that, but in some instances, like yours did, it can help you win. It is better than breaking, not making anything, and leaving run outs for your opponent. A good defense
can contain a good offense. I have done this before, mostly in 8 ball, if I am playing someone better than I am. Makes more problems for them to work out, giving you more of a chance in playing out the game. Many times I have ended up beating better players skill wise simply from being smarter mentally about the game in my defense, especially.

 

[AuntyDan]

That's why many pros draw the cueball near the end rail if the 1-ball seems to be finding its place near the head rail. I know it sounds stupid, but that's the way to go. Play position for the 1-ball if it constantly stops in certain area.

Not stupid at all, and I have also seen Pros playing this break, especially when playing with a break box and under rules that say a minimum number of balls have to cross the center string. (UPA specifically) However I do not yet have the cue ball control to do this effectively. If I put just a little draw on the cue ball when breaking I tend to scratch horribly in one of the top corner pockets, or bring it straight up the middle where it bounce off the head rail and goes back down table, which does not help if the 1 is on the head rail. Oh well, that's why they are Pros and I am not. Back to the practice table...