Some people mentioned lighter fluid is what they used to clean thier cue. What type of lighter fluid? Im looking for the chemical names, i don't wanna just go buy the wrong stuff and ruin my cue. Would rubbing alcohol (ISOpropynol (sp)) work? I just wanna go find something off the shelf at the grocery store. I was using a bleach and water compound that didn't work too well and i heard it can damage the cue.
Cleaning Cue - Again
- Thread starter fxskater
- Start date
fxskater said:
Get a Mr. Clean Magic eraser sponge. Wet it with water and watch the blue go away (like magic).
drivermaker
Banned
Frank_Glenn said:
This is a serious question...what do you think would happen if you wet the Magic eraser sponge with alcohol or lighter fluid instead of water. Would it be less apt to raise the grain like water does?
Ronsonol-type lighter fluid is naptha; I've used it for years with no problems. Squirt a little on a soft rag (I use an old T-shirt), wipe down, then wipe briskly with a dry portion of the T-shirt, followed by buffing with a piece of leather.
Troy, you're quite right about the Magic Eraser. I tried it, wrung out as much as possible, on an old shaft and while it cleaned it, it got it much wetter than I liked and raised the grain a lot. I haven't tried it just dampened, but I don't need my good shafts cleaned that thoroughly, so probably wont experiment any further.
Walt in VA
Troy, you're quite right about the Magic Eraser. I tried it, wrung out as much as possible, on an old shaft and while it cleaned it, it got it much wetter than I liked and raised the grain a lot. I haven't tried it just dampened, but I don't need my good shafts cleaned that thoroughly, so probably wont experiment any further.
Walt in VA
fxskater said:
One cuemaker told me never to use anything with chlorine on a shaft because the chlorine can damge the wood. That may be the problem with the bleach and you may have scratched the shaft. The same cuemaker told me you could use Bon Ami since it didn't have any chlorine. But I have never tried that and can't vouch for it. I use a damp rag or an occasional alcohol wipe at most. I don't think you need to use a lot of chemicals. I have seen good results with lighter fluid. Whatever you put in your zippo.
I believe Coleman fuel is a blend with a much higher volatility than pure naptha. I remember people using unleaded Amoco gas ("white gas") as a substitute years ago in their Coleman lanterns. Don't think naptha is nearly that volatile. Coleman fuel carries a warning not to use indoors or for cleaning, as vapors may ignite.kokopuffs said:
Walt in VA
Well, of course. I didn't mean dripping. By all means wring it out. I have heard of others using lighter fluid but I haven't tried it. Just cut off a little piece of the sponge and test it, but wring it out before you put it on the cuestick.Troy said:
I agree Wally.
If you put a dab of Ronsonol® on your finger it dries relatively slowly and feels very slightly "oily". It does not "go off" like alcohol.
I remember Coleman Fluid and White Gas "going off" quickly and leaving a whitish residue on the skin. Not the same as lighter fluid at all.
Also, I have used gasoline as a substitute for lighter fluid in a Zippo®. It works OK in the lighter but doesn't last as long as real lighter fluid.
Troy
If you put a dab of Ronsonol® on your finger it dries relatively slowly and feels very slightly "oily". It does not "go off" like alcohol.
I remember Coleman Fluid and White Gas "going off" quickly and leaving a whitish residue on the skin. Not the same as lighter fluid at all.
Also, I have used gasoline as a substitute for lighter fluid in a Zippo®. It works OK in the lighter but doesn't last as long as real lighter fluid.
Troy
Walt in VA said:
paul fanelli
Registered
shaft cleaning
Blud is right on, clean as you go, nothing fancy needed, just do it. For the rest of us, a tip I must credit to Joe Mc. of NY state. It's a secret, so I cannot name the product. However, in secret code it reads:
HSILOPMUNIMULA&GAMSREHTOM
paper towel;dip;wipe;repeat;buff w/paper towel...for shaftwood and polishing ferrule. If you can decode, should be no prob.
Disclaimer: read label, do not eat this product. (looks tasty). Easy to use, works v.good.
blud said:
Blud is right on, clean as you go, nothing fancy needed, just do it. For the rest of us, a tip I must credit to Joe Mc. of NY state. It's a secret, so I cannot name the product. However, in secret code it reads:
HSILOPMUNIMULA&GAMSREHTOM
paper towel;dip;wipe;repeat;buff w/paper towel...for shaftwood and polishing ferrule. If you can decode, should be no prob.
Disclaimer: read label, do not eat this product. (looks tasty). Easy to use, works v.good.
clean
Most guys have tired many differant things for cleaning your shafts.
You ask for answers, and most do not listen to sound advice.
You listen to guys who "DO NOT" make a living cleaning shafts and taking care of cues. This I have done for years....
I, like many other qualified cuemakers and or repairman, do know what is best. I have been doing this for 32 plus years, and have many repeat customers. My methods have yet to ruin a shaft.
Just wipe your shaft down with a lightly water moisted cloth, and then wipe down with a dry soft cloth.
This will keep it clean. It will not, however clean one that's very dirty and green.
This will help with the older shafts, and really do a good job with the newer ones.
Then if you want, use a brown paper bag, [lunch bag or sack] and rub the shaft with this, and it will help keep it smooth and slick. You can also use a newer dollar bill...
For you guys who talk about bon-ami, and all the other abrasive crap, that's just what it is, crap. Not only does it marr your shaft, it also opens the grain up to allow dirt, chalk, moister to gather and could cause it to warp.
Of course if you have plenty of dough, $$$$$$$$$$$, continue on, buy new shafts every few month's.......
Do not use any kind of abrasive materials on your shafts.
Listen now, or pay later.
blud
Most guys have tired many differant things for cleaning your shafts.
You ask for answers, and most do not listen to sound advice.
You listen to guys who "DO NOT" make a living cleaning shafts and taking care of cues. This I have done for years....
I, like many other qualified cuemakers and or repairman, do know what is best. I have been doing this for 32 plus years, and have many repeat customers. My methods have yet to ruin a shaft.
Just wipe your shaft down with a lightly water moisted cloth, and then wipe down with a dry soft cloth.
This will keep it clean. It will not, however clean one that's very dirty and green.
This will help with the older shafts, and really do a good job with the newer ones.
Then if you want, use a brown paper bag, [lunch bag or sack] and rub the shaft with this, and it will help keep it smooth and slick. You can also use a newer dollar bill...
For you guys who talk about bon-ami, and all the other abrasive crap, that's just what it is, crap. Not only does it marr your shaft, it also opens the grain up to allow dirt, chalk, moister to gather and could cause it to warp.
Of course if you have plenty of dough, $$$$$$$$$$$, continue on, buy new shafts every few month's.......
Do not use any kind of abrasive materials on your shafts.
Listen now, or pay later.
blud