Clear Filler for Hand Carved Cue?

[Raz]

Greetings Gods o' Cue Making-

It's my first time posting here but, this was the place I was told to go if I had any question fathomable in regards to cue making. I'm really hoping you can help me out because, I've been told my question is a doozy. Ok here goes.

I'm hand carving a cue. I'm getting an already cut to finish butt blank from a local cue manufacturer. The carving I plan on doing is not just scrawling into the wood but doing the caring as a relief. In other words the carving is going to stick out as the wood is removed. Now here is the question, What do I use as a clear filler to fill in where the wood is removed so I can show off the carving yet provide an even surface throughout the butt. I've been looking into poly resins, acrylic resins, and epoxys but, I'm not sure which one will work best considering I want something that is going to be ultra clear but not brittle and, if it would be possible for the material to have a little give when dried. I am also not sure about how to do the fill. If I should use a mold made from the original uncarved butt or if there is some type of paste or gel that will set quickly. I don't know if i'm missing anything but, if I am feel free to ask.

Any help anyone could give me regarding all this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
~Raz

 

[Raz]

Research Update on Filler.

I appologize if my first post was a little over the top but, I've really been racking my brain over this whole thing.

I spoke with someone today who has far more wood working and carving experience than I do. He advised me to use an epoxy due to it actually bonding with the wood. He said if I used a plastic it wouldn't bond with the wood and could loosen up over time leading to cracking, chipping, or just plain wrecking the carving. He also said than an epoxy would be sandable, polishable, and would allow for some flex. Now I guess the only question is, does anyone know of an epoxy that would work best for this?

Thanks again for any help that could be provided.

~Raz

 

[billfishhead]

flex coat may do the job,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,its a high build polymer used by fishing rod builders,,,,,,,,,,,,,rotate it while drying to avoid sagging

 

[Raz]

Bill

flex coat may do the job,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,its a high build polymer used by fishing rod builders,,,,,,,,,,,,,rotate it while drying to avoid sagging

Thanks Bill

I'll look into it. Another fisherman had recommended the same thing.

 

[cueman]

Greetings Gods o' Cue Making-

It's my first time posting here but, this was the place I was told to go if I had any question fathomable in regards to cue making. I'm really hoping you can help me out because, I've been told my question is a doozy. Ok here goes.

I'm hand carving a cue. I'm getting an already cut to finish butt blank from a local cue manufacturer. The carving I plan on doing is not just scrawling into the wood but doing the caring as a relief. In other words the carving is going to stick out as the wood is removed. Now here is the question, What do I use as a clear filler to fill in where the wood is removed so I can show off the carving yet provide an even surface throughout the butt. I've been looking into poly resins, acrylic resins, and epoxys but, I'm not sure which one will work best considering I want something that is going to be ultra clear but not brittle and, if it would be possible for the material to have a little give when dried. I am also not sure about how to do the fill. If I should use a mold made from the original uncarved butt or if there is some type of paste or gel that will set quickly. I don't know if i'm missing anything but, if I am feel free to ask.

Any help anyone could give me regarding all this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
~Raz

Cue Cote will do the job. It may take a few coats to get your cavities filled. Sanding between coats is a must or you wil wind up with too thick of a finish everywhere else. If you carve too deeply it may never fill up or take many coats. You have to make something to slow rotate the cue for 4 to 5 hours after applying finish. You will need a propane torch to pop the bubbles. Do not use butane as is has soot in the flame. Cue Cote costs $35 a quart and $15 for buffing material. I lay in diamonds and rubies and such that produce cavities and can usually get it filled within three coats. It is avalable on the Cue Man Billiard Products site listed below.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

 

[Cue Crazy]

Has anyone ever done a carving and then slipped acyrilic tube over it simular to the way palmer did the windows in their butt sleeves? I saw a plastics manufacture that had different types of acyrilic rod & tube. Some were the machinable type, and could even be polished afterwards. Not sure how the glue would look through It though.

Thanks, Greg

 

[cuesmith]

Has anyone ever done a carving and then slipped acyrilic tube over it simular to the way palmer did the windows in their butt sleeves? I saw a plastics manufacture that had different types of acyrilic rod & tube. Some were the machinable type, and could even be polished afterwards. Not sure how the glue would look through It though.

Thanks, Greg

I'm working on a "Bushka Tribute" cue that will be similar to my old Balabushka, pictured here. I've only seen 3 cues of this type from George. The one I have that was broken in the across the Titlist forearm (I got it along with a bunch of cue parts and materials I purchased from an old cuemaker, Bobby Nickerson), the one in the pictures I used to own and the cue that belonged to Cicero Murphy for many years!

The tribute cue I'm making will incorporate the parts from the bottom of the broken Bushka I have.

 

[Cue Crazy]

I'm working on a "Bushka Tribute" cue that will be similar to my old Balabushka, pictured here. I've only seen 3 cues of this type from George. The one I have that was broken in the across the Titlist forearm (I got it along with a bunch of cue parts and materials I purchased from an old cuemaker, Bobby Nickerson), the one in the pictures I used to own and the cue that belonged to Cicero Murphy for many years!

The tribute cue I'm making will incorporate the parts from the bottom of the broken Bushka I have.

Sounds like a cool project. suprising they would break accross the forearm like that. Guess that's a testiment to the joint work, if It faired better then the middle of the forearm. Still, sounds like an ausome parts lot you got there.

Hope we get a preview when Your done. Would like to see what you come up with when finished. I love the Bushka in the picture, very sweet cue.

 

[Raz]

Cue Cote will do the job. It may take a few coats to get your cavities filled. Sanding between coats is a must or you wil wind up with too thick of a finish everywhere else. If you carve too deeply it may never fill up or take many coats. You have to make something to slow rotate the cue for 4 to 5 hours after applying finish. You will need a propane torch to pop the bubbles. Do not use butane as is has soot in the flame. Cue Cote costs $35 a quart and $15 for buffing material. I lay in diamonds and rubies and such that produce cavities and can usually get it filled within three coats. It is avalable on the Cue Man Billiard Products site listed below.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

Thanks Chris for the help and thanks to everyone else who has pitched in their ideas. I hope to have the carving portion finished within a month and I'll try to get a pic on here. I know it can be difficult to help someone when you can't even see what their problem is. Well I'm off to pick up my blank, wish me luck and thanks again to everyone for their help.

Thanks!
~ Raz

P.S. Being I'm still new to the process if anyone might want to send me some advice on ringwork that would be great!