Cue Cote cue finish

ragbug74

Next NYTimes Best-Seller!
Silver Member
I'm a new "student of the game" of cuemaking and am wondering if anyone can offer any suggestions or ideas concerning finishing a cue with the Cue Cote brand cue finish. This is a product that Chris Hightower sells along with the rest of his line of cue building lathes, tools, and supplies.

I have a few cues close to ready for finish. I have built a small lathe-type "spinner" that turns the cue at approx. 60 RPM. I've tried finishing the end of a few shafts for practice, but have had mixed results thus far. Because of this, I'm hesitant to put a finish on an entire butt in fear of ruining my hard work. I know there are many ways to finish a cue, the Cue Cote product is just my choice to get started. It seems that most of the beautiful finishes you see these days are air-sprayed auto products. I would imagine I'll give that a try sooner or later, but I'm wondering if there's any secrets to using Cue Cote that anyone could recommend.

I've tried putting two thin coats on, sanding in between coats. That seemed to work the best so far, but I still wasn't happy with the final result. It was a bit hazy (even after buffing), and I thought I had to work the finish quite a bit to get it smooth and even. I also tried putting on a thick coat, but it never evened out enough on the spinner and was too much of a mess to even sand out on the lathe after it had dried. Maybe I'm underestimating the amount of "work" a finish will require once it's applied and dried on the cue?

One other thing is that the recommended application of the Cue Cote product calls for a quick pass with a plumber's torch to bring the air bubbles to the surface. On one test shaft, I must have gotten the wood a bit warm as the grain seemed to darken up. On another shaft, I had quite a few imperfections or flaws in the finish, so I'm wondering if I didn't hit it with the torch long enough. Is there any secret to this part of the process? Is it truly just a "quick pass" over the cue once or twice?

I'm really excited about the cues I have built to this point and can't wait to get a finish on them to see how they hit. I've had my lathe for about 10 months after researching equipment, etc. for about a year. This is strictly a hobby at this point, but I'd love to be able to sell a few cues occasionally to support my habit.

I've been a surfer of the AZBilliard forums for a few years, but have just recently discovered the Cuemakers section. Thanks to all the experienced cuemakers out there posting in this forum for us rookies. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Mark
 
ragbug74 said:
I have a few cues close to ready for finish. I have built a small lathe-type "spinner" that turns the cue at approx. 60 RPM. I've tried finishing the end of a few shafts for practice, but have had mixed results thus far. Because of this, I'm hesitant to put a finish on an entire butt in fear of ruining my hard work. I know there are many ways to finish a cue, the Cue Cote product is just my choice to get started. It seems that most of the beautiful finishes you see these days are air-sprayed auto products. I would imagine I'll give that a try sooner or later, but I'm wondering if there's any secrets to using Cue Cote that anyone could recommend.

Mark

Mark, in my opinion you only have two real choices if you want a professional looking finish on your cues. You can either set up the equipment required to spray on the finish or send them out to a cuemaker that is set up for that. Anything else will be a compromise that I dont think you will be satisified with.

AnnieO in Huston Texas will finish your cue for around $80 and believe me that is cheap for what she does to get that brilliant finish. I had her finish a few of my cues until I got my spray booth set up.

Finishing a cue is the other half that a lot of aspiring cuemakers overlook when they think they want to make some cues. It is just about as technicaly demanding to get a good flawless finish as making the cue itself. Having the right equipment and using the right materials is essential to getting a good finish on your cues. Plus a lot of elbow grease wet sanding and polishing.

A spray booth that traps the overspray and moves the fumes safely away from your lungs is mandatory equipment if you want to live to see your grandkids. Also a resprator if you use auto clearcoat. I would recomend you start with UV cure finish because of its safety, speed, and easy sanding properitys. Many well known cuemakers have switched to that finish. It is harder to buff to a glass like shine than automotive but it can be done.
 
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It sounds like you put the two coats on too thin and the thick coat on too thick. Once you get a feel for the amount to put on you will be able to get a professional finish. Buff it on about 1000 RPMs and buff it two different days and it will come to a nice shine. Make sure you sanded down to at least 2000 grit before buffing. I have used it on $4000 cues, but it is more trouble than Auto Clear coats but is much less toxic.
Chris
 
Guys, thanks for the replies.

Chris, any other suggestions as to the torch? If applied properly, how thick should the final sanded and buffed finish be? This thickness must be taken into consideration when cutting the wrap groove, correct?
 
5 thousanths is about right. I have put on as much as 10, but 5 is best. That is .0025 per side. This is usually acomplished in one or two coats. Let the cue rotate for about 5 minutes and then pass the torch over it really fast just a couple of times. Don't use one of those tiny pencil torches that use butane as they sometimes leave soot in the finish. A butane ligher will do the same.
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
 
hadjcues said:
Chris,

What about those 20 minute finish cure epoxies? Are they any good?

Hadj
I really don't know as I have not used any that I liked, but that doesn't mean that there are not some out there. I once used a glass bonding epoxy and it produced a super nice finish. But the problem was it was very very inconsitant about drying hard. As often as not it would stay really really soft. I have used the cue cote for years now and the thing I like least about it is that once it is totally finished and buffed to a shine it still has a light waviness to it when you sight down the cue in the light. If it wasn't for that I don't think I would even consider going UV curing or anything else.
Chris
 
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