HI, thank you to all cue makers for taking the time to answer questions here and all other people also. I'm not a cue maker I do mostly repairs and have some questions I hope you can help me with. I have a few cues I have put together for myself and I would like to put a finish on them. What would be the best thing to use for someone just starting out. I can't find the information on the net or don't know were to look. Thanks Hannphie
Cue Finishing
- Thread starter Hannphie
- Start date
Zims Rack said:
That stuff is Very hazardous and tricky to work with, as well as expensive. There are a number of finishes out there that are adequate for personal use, (non pro with minimum equipment) without so much hazard. Conversion varnish works well and although not completely safe, (Use standard precautions) it is fairly easy to work with and almost bullet proof. For something that is safe there is a product called Endura a water based finish that is very clear and tough as nails when dry. (These finishes have come a long away in the past few years)
http://www.compliantspraysystems.com/
It polishes to a mirror finish is fool proof to use. It is also formulated as a wood product. With the auto finishes, without proper protection, it is hard to even be in the same room with an open can. It is only for the most experienced people.
Zim, you might wanna try those hand applied epoxy if you don't want to spray.
Here, in California, we have the strictest EPA laws in the nation imo.
They've taken a ton of good finishes b/c they were just hazardous.
These water based finishes are more eco friendly but most of them turn yellow or have a blue haze when sprayed on dark woods.
But, if you ever spray, make sure you wear a mask and have a fan behind you and/or fans sukking all the overspray.
CC, I wear mask all the time. Even if I turning just maple.
Here, in California, we have the strictest EPA laws in the nation imo.
They've taken a ton of good finishes b/c they were just hazardous.
These water based finishes are more eco friendly but most of them turn yellow or have a blue haze when sprayed on dark woods.
But, if you ever spray, make sure you wear a mask and have a fan behind you and/or fans sukking all the overspray.
CC, I wear mask all the time. Even if I turning just maple.
hazards
Mr mcguy your point is well taken ,thank you for correcting my grave mistake .It was very irresponsible of me to suggest using these dangerous products without also warning of all it's potential hazards.To show my sencerity I will remove my posts in this thread.
Mr mcguy your point is well taken ,thank you for correcting my grave mistake .It was very irresponsible of me to suggest using these dangerous products without also warning of all it's potential hazards.To show my sencerity I will remove my posts in this thread.
CS, does Enduro turn yellowish over time?chokenstroke said:
How are they on dark woods? Any blue haze at all?
Thanks Mac. I'll give them a shot.macguy said:
chokenstroke said:
Well for what it is worth ... I also use that Endro water base sealer on some of my cues (mainly the oily woods) but am still evaluating how well Automotive clear coat and UV set finishes will stick to it. I have not used the top coat for anything but pen finishes as yet and it does work good for that. A pen gets a lot of wear in a very small area.
The Endro sealer is hard and does dry fast. I like to use it it on shafts as once you get a shaft sealed good with that stuff it will stay smooth and clean without having the drag of other shaft finishes or requiring constant attention.