Cue ID

StrokeofLuck

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A friend of mine picked this up recently and I have not seen the cue in person but we can't ID it. Seems to be very high quality and the joint material is grainy, maybe ivory? Anyway, maybe someone can help us out.
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A friend of mine picked this up recently and I have not seen the cue in person but we can't ID it. Seems to be very high quality and the joint material is grainy, maybe ivory? Anyway, maybe someone can help us out. View attachment 705216View attachment 705217View attachment 705218View attachment 705219View attachment 705225
It's a popular style made popular by Southwest. So it could be almost anything from high-end to cheap import knockoff. Have to really see it in person at the very least better close up pictures of the joint ring work and ring work on the butt.
 
I have never seen an Asian market cue with that weight bolt or with a weight bolt tapped to accept an additional screw to hold down the rubber bumper. I believe that this is an American made cue- why there are no maker's marks is puzzling. Huebler used this system to hold down their brown rubber bumpers and they used a nylon screw into the weight bolt - this is a metal cap screw used to hold the bumper in your photo- obviously not a Huebler cue - but several American cue makers used the system of a small screw thru the rubber bumper to hold it into a weight bolt, my Richard Black also has that system. The cue joint may not be ivory- some man made materials can appear like ivory grain, I have seen this on many cues as well.

An in person inspection might be needed here, the weight distribution and balance features would tell a lot in terms of the quality of the build. The joint screw looks like one that I had on a Scott Gracio cue. That wrap is puzzling because it actually looks like an Asian cheaper leather wrap - so, hard to say overall from just photos.
 
I have never seen an Asian market cue with that weight bolt or with a weight bolt tapped to accept an additional screw to hold down the rubber bumper. I believe that this is an American made cue- why there are no maker's marks is puzzling. Huebler used this system to hold down their brown rubber bumpers and they used a nylon screw into the weight bolt - this is a metal cap screw used to hold the bumper in your photo- obviously not a Huebler cue - but several American cue makers used the system of a small screw thru the rubber bumper to hold it into a weight bolt, my Richard Black also has that system. The cue joint may not be ivory- some man made materials can appear like ivory grain, I have seen this on many cues as well.

An in person inspection might be needed here, the weight distribution and balance features would tell a lot in terms of the quality of the build. The joint screw looks like one that I had on a Scott Gracio cue. That wrap is puzzling because it actually looks like an Asian cheaper leather wrap - so, hard to say overall from just photos.
The cue has been played for many years so the wrap is really worn. The owner said he thought it was a McDermott “prototype” but McDermott says no. I’ll see it in person today.
 
A local cuemaker near me made a few SW style designs like this, it may be a local not very well-known guy that built it.
This is the one me and my son owned for a bit, very similar to yours.

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Might be the digital distortion of the image, but the rings look painted.

I think it's just not a perfectly executed build, the points don't seem to be built up the same way also, in the picture one has a wider gap than the other at the base and one of the ring inlays does not go all the way to the top. Which is another clue it's made by a local guy not a well known maker that won't have those kind of flaws.
 
I think it's just not a perfectly executed build, the points don't seem to be built up the same way also, in the picture one has a wider gap than the other at the base and one of the ring inlays does not go all the way to the top. Which is another clue it's made by a local guy not a well known maker that won't have those kind of flaws.
You guys are good! Between my friend and I we’ve probably had over a hundred cues and I didn’t notice that little ring work flaw. Someone suggested Coker. Possibility? I’m guessing not. I did see it today and it seems well made. Ivorine joint maybe.
 
You guys are good! Between my friend and I we’ve probably had over a hundred cues and I didn’t notice that little ring work flaw. Someone suggested Coker. Possibility? I’m guessing not. I did see it today and it seems well made. Ivorine joint maybe.
Not just the rings, look at the points where they go into the handle. A well regarded and known cuemaker would have the same even distance or very close on all of the various parts of the build, down to having the rings line up through the cue.

I'm going with a lesser known local cuemaker, it looks well done, just not up well-known name quality done. It's a bit too much of a generic design cue to be IDed without more info like where it was made, when it was made, history of ownership. The cue I posted has very similar characteristics, but I asked the guy that built it and he said it was not one of his.
 
Not just the rings, look at the points where they go into the handle. A well regarded and known cuemaker would have the same even distance or very close on all of the various parts of the build, down to having the rings line up through the cue.

I'm going with a lesser known local cuemaker, it looks well done, just not up well-known name quality done. It's a bit too much of a generic design cue to be IDed without more info like where it was made, when it was made, history of ownership. The cue I posted has very similar characteristics, but I asked the guy that built it and he said it was not one of his.

I've seen worse from big names. Not too long ago someone had a cue on here that people were lauding praise upon. That cue was full of crap like that.
 
I have had cues from so called " top" cue makers where the butt sleeve inlays were off by more than 1/8 inch from the forearm inlays - like the entire butt sleeve should be removed and turned 1/8 inch plus to line up with the inlays above the wrap. so it happens- even with some of the so called Best.
 
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