Cue repair

R

RSB-Refugee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi all,

I am new here, my name is Tracy. I live in rural Indiana.
I am relatively green to cue repair. I have done quite
a few tips and a few ferrule replacements. I have a Viking
here with a 3/8-10 wood 2 wood joint. The owner complained
that the joint was too tight. The pin looked very grungey.
and a little like it had rust on it. I polished the pin and it
still screwed together hard. I ran four Q-Tips down in the
shaft and got a lot of grime out. It is still very tight. Is
there a method to clean the hole out, or would you
re-tap it?

Thanks,
Tracy
 
I would retap it but I would use an h2 tap instead of the standard h3 -3/8X10 that is sold in the industry. Widell can make it if your interested. I have the tap job number from them some where. For those who don't know the h2 would allow a better fit without the play in the threads.
 
Or try this cheaper solution. Cut 3 longitudinal v-grooves on an extra joint pin all the way down to the minor diameter. File off 4 sides on one end to make a square, as seen from the end view of the pin, so you can use a tap handle. Use this as the shaft threads cleaner as it will be less traumatic for those wood threads than a regular tap because the angle of its cutting edge is wider than a regular tap's. It's going to be more of a scraping action than a regular tap's cutting action. You just need to scrape off the built up gunk or minor bulge in the threads caused by increased moisture content in the shaft wood. Do 2 passes with the last one, after blowing air into the hole, using some vaseline to help seal and lubricate the raw wood. Hope this helps.
Edwin Reyes
 
RSB-Refugee said:
Hi all,

I am new here, my name is Tracy. I live in rural Indiana.
I am relatively green to cue repair. I have done quite
a few tips and a few ferrule replacements.
Thanks,
Tracy
Click to expand...

Tracy, Do you know about Unique Products that is close to you?
They make cue equipment. www.uniqueinc.com
Give them a call.
They are very friendly and helpful people.
 
bandido said:
or minor bulge in the threads caused by increased moisture content in the shaft wood.
Click to expand...

I was afraid, cleaning solutions may have a negative effect, moisture wise.

bandido said:
using some vaseline to help seal and lubricate the raw wood. Hope this helps.
Edwin Reyes
Click to expand...

I take it Vaseline does not have a swelling effect. I have a feeling the previous owner was using graphite. Does graphite have a moisture absorbing characteristic?

Thanks,
Tracy
 
Michael Webb said:
I would retap it but I would use an h2 tap instead of the standard h3 -3/8X10 that is sold in the industry. Widell can make it if your interested. I have the tap job number from them some where. For those who don't know the h2 would allow a better fit without the play in the threads.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Michael. I did not know there were different types of the same size. I will have to research "h2" and "h3", to get a better knowledge of taps. I would appreciate more info on Widell. Are they more, or less expensive?

Thanks,
Tracy
 
WilleeCue said:
Tracy, Do you know about Unique Products that is close to you?
Click to expand...

Yes sir I am. I am not at a point in my life which allows investing in equipment at this point. :(
WilleeCue said:
Give them a call.
They are very friendly and helpful people.
Click to expand...

I'll keep them, as well as Chris and Blud, in mind, when I do find myself looking for more equipment.
:)

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
Thanks, Michael. I did not know there were different types of the same size. I will have to research "h2" and "h3", to get a better knowledge of taps. I would appreciate more info on Widell. Are they more, or less expensive?

Thanks,
Tracy
Click to expand...

Widell does get expensive. If you do what Bandido suggest you'll be fine. The wood would swell from cleaning solutions. I would just blow it out well and chase it with the pin. Give me a call if I can help.
 
RSB-Refugee said:
I was afraid, cleaning solutions may have a negative effect, moisture wise.
Click to expand...
There are solvent-based and water-based (the new Eco-friendly variety) cleaning solutions and I do suggest using solvent based if you don't have access to some drying equipment. jk:-)

RSB-Refugee said:
I take it Vaseline does not have a swelling effect. I have a feeling the previous owner was using graphite. Does graphite have a moisture absorbing characteristic?

Thanks,
Tracy
Click to expand...
Vaseline is a petroleum distillate.

You're very welcome Michael. Still interested?
 
RSB-Refugee said:
Thanks, Michael. I did not know there were different types of the same size. I will have to research "h2" and "h3", to get a better knowledge of taps. I would appreciate more info on Widell. Are they more, or less expensive?

Thanks,
Tracy
Click to expand...
Taps normally come in a set of 3 and are differentiated by their major diameter and entry point angle. This configuration eases the tap production process as the stages limit the amount of material cut. Excessive feed can cause breakage to the tap and difficulty inperforming the chore on harder materials while breakage of the threads being produced can be caused in softer materials. The minor diameter of the tap helps keep the tap centered to the hole during the tapping operation.
Edwin Reyes
 
bandido said:
Taps normally come in a set of 3 and are differentiated by their major diameter and entry point angle. This configuration eases the tap production process as the stages limit the amount of material cut. Excessive feed can cause breakage to the tap and difficulty inperforming the chore on harder materials while breakage of the threads being produced can be caused in softer materials. The minor diameter of the tap helps keep the tap centered to the hole during the tapping operation.
Edwin Reyes
Click to expand...

I did know about taper and bottoming taps, but this major diameter concept is all new to me. Are you saying to get the best threads, one should incrementally increase the major diameter. Is triple tapping (for lack of knowing a proper term) only for hard materials? Is such a practice, very prevalent in cue making?
By the way, I went through the "Cue Gallery" here at AZB and was awe struck, by the beauty of your scrimshaw work. Very cool :)

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee,

If you have a lathe and mill (w/indexer), you can make your own taps any way you want, all you need is the above mentioned, and some drill rod (oil hardening)... but if you don't. I never heard a bad thing about Widell.

Thanks,

Jon
 
RSB-Refugee said:
I did know about taper and bottoming taps, but this major diameter concept is all new to me. Are you saying to get the best threads, one should incrementally increase the major diameter. Is triple tapping (for lack of knowing a proper term) only for hard materials? Is such a practice, very prevalent in cue making?
By the way, I went through the "Cue Gallery" here at AZB and was awe struck, by the beauty of your scrimshaw work. Very cool :)

Tracy
Click to expand...
Thanks Tracy. The bigger diameter, or peak if you look at screw threads as peaks and valleys, is the major diameter and the valley is the minor diameter. Tap set was created for a reason, in harder materials occurance of binding is reduced thus less tap breakage. In softer materials, produced threads are less likely to be stripped. Incremental increase in diameter is already the reason for the tap set.
 
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