Cue tip replacement...

Chokeinator

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm sure there is a ton of advice somewhere on these boards but the search function seems to be FUBAR for me right now.

I live in an area where professional tip replacement is not an option and after tons and tons of internet searches I am more confused than anything and have tons of questions.

One is...can someone recommend a quality site on how to replace a cue tip or just detail on what a quality install entails. I've seen everything from using a rubberband to a lathe to install a tip, I would assume a lathe would ensure a quality tip installation but is this a necessity? What kind of glue would some of you recommend? As far as sanding the ferrule I have seen special tools for sale online for this, are these really neccessary for a quality install? What method do some of you guys use? I've also seen special pads for sale that go between the tip and the ferrule, are these recommended or just something else to waste money on?

Now as far as what kind of tip to use I've read some of the advice on these boards and I was considering purchasing the Talisman WB mediums. I've never used a layered tip before and I know there are special considerations when using this tip, however a rehash of this information would be greatly appreciated, I'm also considering swinging for a moori, what's the opinion on tips. What kind of tips do you guys recommend and/or play with? Suggestions don't need to be layered, I was just considering a layered tip.

Also recommendations on what kind of tools I need, anything from ferrule sanders, to trimmers, to types of sand paper and glue would be appreciated as well as maintenance recommendations.

Lastly links to low cost suppliers you guys have found would be appreciated as saving a buck wherever possible is always cool. Thanks for rehashing this subject again.

Lost in the world of cue tip replacement.
 
Chokeinator said:
I'm sure there is a ton of advice somewhere on these boards but the search function seems to be FUBAR for me right now.

I live in an area where professional tip replacement is not an option and after tons and tons of internet searches I am more confused than anything and have tons of questions.

One is...can someone recommend a quality site on how to replace a cue tip or just detail on what a quality install entails. I've seen everything from using a rubberband to a lathe to install a tip, I would assume a lathe would ensure a quality tip installation but is this a necessity? What kind of glue would some of you recommend? As far as sanding the ferrule I have seen special tools for sale online for this, are these really neccessary for a quality install? What method do some of you guys use? I've also seen special pads for sale that go between the tip and the ferrule, are these recommended or just something else to waste money on?

Now as far as what kind of tip to use I've read some of the advice on these boards and I was considering purchasing the Talisman WB mediums. I've never used a layered tip before and I know there are special considerations when using this tip, however a rehash of this information would be greatly appreciated, I'm also considering swinging for a moori, what's the opinion on tips. What kind of tips do you guys recommend and/or play with? Suggestions don't need to be layered, I was just considering a layered tip.

Also recommendations on what kind of tools I need, anything from ferrule sanders, to trimmers, to types of sand paper and glue would be appreciated as well as maintenance recommendations.

Lastly links to low cost suppliers you guys have found would be appreciated as saving a buck wherever possible is always cool. Thanks for rehashing this subject again.

Lost in the world of cue tip replacement.

Ok,
I can lend a bit of help. I am buying a lathe soon. But in the meantime I have been doing tips for friends with a kit available at http://www.seyberts.com/cue_accessories/kits/index.htm
It works well. I bought the Deluxe kit. The only piece that I don't use is the burnisher, it sucks! Everything else works really well. Also, if you click on the kit itself, it will open a new window with video instruction on how to put a tip on with this kit. I put a LePro on last night in about 10 minutes and it is perfect. The glue and the cuetop sander are key pieces. As far as the tip question you have, it depends on a few things. How often you play and how you play are a few. If you break with your playing cue and/or play 2 to 3 days a week or more, a layered tip may be a good choice since they are much harder and last longer. More expensive though. If you are a casual player and have a break cue and playing cue or break with a house cue, you probably won't go through tips too often and can get away with a less expensive cue like a LePro. I play too often to use a LePro, (I would have to replace it every other month) Moori seems to be the best for me. It will take you awhile to get used to a harder layered tip but will pay off in the end. I have never seen a Moori mushroom, ever. Very little maintenance as well. You can get a good deal ($15-$20 each) on Moori's on eBay usually. I would suggest the Medium, the Quick is really hard and fast. Medium would be a good transition tip for you. Hope this helps
 
Here are some things I found very helpful

Hi Chokeinator,

I feel especially qualified to help with your problem since I just went through the exact same thing myself. The local room where I usually get my tips replaced took a MONTH the last time I dropped off a cue. I went back there recently for a new tip and they told me the lathe was broken and to try coming back in a week and MAYBE they could do it then. F#$% that I thought to myself. It's not like it's rocket science. I set about doing some research on the web and ordered a few items, made a few mistakes the first couple tries and I am happy to say that with a little practice under my belt my tips look professional, stay on the cue, are flush with the ferrule, and are virtually indistinguishable from ones that I have had done at the pool hall.

Here is a sight that I found helpful

http://www.allsportbid.com/equipment/how_replace.html

Bought a few items here that helped greatly with the process
http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/accessories/tip_maintenance.htm

Some tips not included on the site that I found helpful

1. I did not use the glue that they recommended (superglue gel) but instead used Tweetens Ten Minute Cement. One tip about using the Tweetens is to make sure you apply thin coat of cement to both tip and ferrule and wait about 1.5 minutes before putting them together. This allows the cement to become gummy and greatly improves the bond. I had a couple tips pop off before I finally figured this one out. Also a quick cirucular shaped rub of the bottom of the tip on a piece of course sandpaper roughes it up a bit to improve the bond. I have heard that barge cement works well but have not tried it.

2. Sand/shape the tip close to the diameter of the ferrule before gluing it on. This reduces the stress that you place on the glue bond once it has dried. It is also easier to do this before the tip is glued on.

3. The Porper Little Shaver (about $15) is invaluable to help shave the tip flush with the ferrule. You do have to be a little careful or you will nick the ferrule close to the end where you first make contact with the tip but I have it down to a science at this point and can quickly shave the tip flush without fear.

4. The Rapid Cue tip sander (about $12) available from Billiard Express Warehouse and others is well worth the money and is very easy to use. Allows you to quickly sand the tip remnants off the ferrule and sand it flat and squared with the shaft.

5. Another benefit is that there is a piece of the kit that has a 5/16 course threaded bolt. Just happened to screw perfectly into the shaft and chuck into a cordless drill. This allows you to press the trigger with your foot while the drill spins the shaft and acts almost like a lathe. This allows the easy application of sandpaper to the tip in finer and finer grades and puts a nice smooth finish on the tip. I wet the sides of the tip slightly for the final finish.

6. With the shaft mounted in the drill and using the Ultimate tip tool you can quickly grind the tip into the correct rounded shape.

6. A black permanent marker can be used to CAREFULLY color the sides of the tip for a nice finished appearance. Cover ferrule with masking tape so you don't make any booboos.

My above advice plus what's on the sight that I mentioned and a little practice should be all you need. I would be happy to answer any other questions and even snap a few pics with my digital camera if you that will help you.

No matter what others say it is very possible to put a tip on yourself WITHOUT a lathe that will look and play just as well as one done by a pro. I know because I have done it!! It DOES take some time, knowledge, a few extra tools and a little practice. Would not recommend you try putting your first tip on an expensive shaft. One sight recommended mounting a couple tips to an inexpensive wooden dowel the same diameter as your shaft as practice. Do not expect the first few to come out perfect. Like anything else it takes a little practice and a little know-how.


Good luck.

David



















Chokeinator said:
I'm sure there is a ton of advice somewhere on these boards but the search function seems to be FUBAR for me right now.

I live in an area where professional tip replacement is not an option and after tons and tons of internet searches I am more confused than anything and have tons of questions.

One is...can someone recommend a quality site on how to replace a cue tip or just detail on what a quality install entails. I've seen everything from using a rubberband to a lathe to install a tip, I would assume a lathe would ensure a quality tip installation but is this a necessity? What kind of glue would some of you recommend? As far as sanding the ferrule I have seen special tools for sale online for this, are these really neccessary for a quality install? What method do some of you guys use? I've also seen special pads for sale that go between the tip and the ferrule, are these recommended or just something else to waste money on?

Now as far as what kind of tip to use I've read some of the advice on these boards and I was considering purchasing the Talisman WB mediums. I've never used a layered tip before and I know there are special considerations when using this tip, however a rehash of this information would be greatly appreciated, I'm also considering swinging for a moori, what's the opinion on tips. What kind of tips do you guys recommend and/or play with? Suggestions don't need to be layered, I was just considering a layered tip.

Also recommendations on what kind of tools I need, anything from ferrule sanders, to trimmers, to types of sand paper and glue would be appreciated as well as maintenance recommendations.

Lastly links to low cost suppliers you guys have found would be appreciated as saving a buck wherever possible is always cool. Thanks for rehashing this subject again.

Lost in the world of cue tip replacement.
 
Cuehunter:

Why do you say that the Porper Burnisher included with the kit sucks? I was thinking of getting one after someone told me that it works just fine for burnishing Talisman Pro tips.
 
climbtrad said:
Hi Chokeinator,.....

.....6. A black permanent marker can be used to CAREFULLY color the sides of the tip for a nice finished appearance. Cover ferrule with masking tape so you don't make any booboos......

Good luck.

David

Just a thought - if you're installing a layered tip you may not want to use the felt-tip marker on the sidewalls. Some of the layered tip manufacturers warn against it because the solvent in the marker ink may react with the glue bonding the tip layers together and cause delamination. I just use a little saliva and burnish with a piece of leather. Looks nice, and I've never had one delaminate on me.

Walt in VA
 
Chokeinator said:
I'm sure there is a ton of advice somewhere on these boards but the search function seems to be FUBAR for me right now.

I live in an area where professional tip replacement is not an option and after tons and tons of internet searches I am more confused than anything and have tons of questions.

One is...can someone recommend a quality site on how to replace a cue tip or just detail on what a quality install entails. I've seen everything from using a rubberband to a lathe to install a tip, I would assume a lathe would ensure a quality tip installation but is this a necessity? What kind of glue would some of you recommend? As far as sanding the ferrule I have seen special tools for sale online for this, are these really neccessary for a quality install? What method do some of you guys use? I've also seen special pads for sale that go between the tip and the ferrule, are these recommended or just something else to waste money on?

Now as far as what kind of tip to use I've read some of the advice on these boards and I was considering purchasing the Talisman WB mediums. I've never used a layered tip before and I know there are special considerations when using this tip, however a rehash of this information would be greatly appreciated, I'm also considering swinging for a moori, what's the opinion on tips. What kind of tips do you guys recommend and/or play with? Suggestions don't need to be layered, I was just considering a layered tip.

Also recommendations on what kind of tools I need, anything from ferrule sanders, to trimmers, to types of sand paper and glue would be appreciated as well as maintenance recommendations.

Lastly links to low cost suppliers you guys have found would be appreciated as saving a buck wherever possible is always cool. Thanks for rehashing this subject again.

Lost in the world of cue tip replacement.




Buy a Talisman pro pig skin, it will out play the Morri, much better tip. Always have a pro put one on, it is too important to do your self.
 
I have put my own single layered tips on for years doing pretty much the exact process that the seybert site instructs.

I went to WB Mediums (layered) and I screwed the first one up sanding the bottom of it as a "prep" step (must have used too course of grit, couldn't get a clean surface after). Talisman website suggests sanding the bottom of the tip but it worked out better for me leaving it alone.
 
fast larry said:
Buy a Talisman pro pig skin, it will out play the Morri, much better tip. Always have a pro put one on, it is too important to do your self.

I live in a remote area so I did it myself, went with the Talisman. Following the advice I got here I sanded the ferrule flush then the bottom of the tip with some fine grade sand paper, I used zap a gap epoxy, a little on the ferrule and a little on the tip, let it sit for about a minute, put it together and used the little jig I got in a tweeten home repair kit to hold it all together. Came back a bit later and checked for gaps and took the thingofajiggy off that was holding the tip in place. Satisfied that the tip was on securely I very carefully used a mushroom grazer tool to get the tip as flush with the ferrule as possible. I then taped my shaft with some masking tape(to protect it) and used a very fine grade sand paper to get the ferrule and the tip perfectly flush. Time to shape the tip I took it down quite a ways as I had read somewhere you don't want it too built up ( I believe this was on the Talisman website) and finished it off with a normal tip tool. I then admired my handiwork which looked as good as anything I'd ever had done by the "pros".

Anyway I shot it around a little at home to make sure the tip wasn't going to immediately fall of (whew) success. So the real moment of truth came last night, the pool hall, leauge night, I brought a spare cue just in case. First practice game with a teammate, 9 ball, 4 balls on the break and I run out, that's the first time I've ran a rack of 9 ball ever in recent memory. I break and shoot with the same cue btw. Anyway to make a long story short I was really on last night, everything felt great, the cue tip did outstanding, I played leauge and stuck around for about 2 hours of one on one 9 ball with a friend afterwards, if the tip was gonna pop off it would have done it last night, it looks good and plays great. Thanks for all the advice, I found it informative and I'm reaping the rewards.
 
Congratulations! As long as you take your time, there's no reason you can't get great results with the hand tools you have. I did it by hand for years before I got mechanized.

After going through LePro and one-piece WB tips, I have finally settled on the Talisman WB Hard tips for all my personal playing cues. The domed tips don't have to be cut down; just put them on and play. They're right at the height I like.

Again, congratulations and good luck!

Walt in VA
 
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