cushions

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Cruzin

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I'm new to this forum and have been reading your posts for sometime. I've been impressed with the quality, insight and imagination of the table mechanics on this site. I'm a retired woodworking teacher who loves to play pool and work with wood. I'm currently attempting to restore a 1930's brunswick 4 1/2 by 9 table that has been in our family since I was a child.

I have a couple of questions that may seem naive but I would like to do as good of a job as I am capable. First, I'm replacing the wood rail liners (t-rails) and planing on reducing the corner pocket openings to 4 5/8's. I've read where the angle to the opening should be 141 degrees, however, is it acceptable to reduce the angle to 137 degrees which would equal a 47 degree angle on my saw with a 15 degree undercut? I've drawn it out on my table and it appears the open would be 4 5/8s.

Second, when gluing on the cushions, I'm using brunswick super speed cushions, I've read two methods of applying the cushions. First method, is to glue the cushions to the rail liner without stretching the cushion. The second method would be to stretch the cushions 1 1/2 to 2 inches on each rail, then glue it in place making sure that the nose of the cushion is at the correct height.

Third, what type of glue should I use? Again, I've heard of two types, one being super glue and the other being 3m-10 Scotchgrip. What would you recommend.

Thank you for your help. I'm leaving for the weekend and won't be back until Tuesday to answer any of your replies or questions.
 
Cruzin said:
I'm new to this forum and have been reading your posts for sometime. I've been impressed with the quality, insight and imagination of the table mechanics on this site. I'm a retired woodworking teacher who loves to play pool and work with wood. I'm currently attempting to restore a 1930's brunswick 4 1/2 by 9 table that has been in our family since I was a child.

I have a couple of questions that may seem naive but I would like to do as good of a job as I am capable. First, I'm replacing the wood rail liners (t-rails) and planing on reducing the corner pocket openings to 4 5/8's. I've read where the angle to the opening should be 141 degrees, however, is it acceptable to reduce the angle to 137 degrees which would equal a 47 degree angle on my saw with a 15 degree undercut? I've drawn it out on my table and it appears the open would be 4 5/8s.

Second, when gluing on the cushions, I'm using brunswick super speed cushions, I've read two methods of applying the cushions. First method, is to glue the cushions to the rail liner without stretching the cushion. The second method would be to stretch the cushions 1 1/2 to 2 inches on each rail, then glue it in place making sure that the nose of the cushion is at the correct height.

Third, what type of glue should I use? Again, I've heard of two types, one being super glue and the other being 3m-10 Scotchgrip. What would you recommend.

Thank you for your help. I'm leaving for the weekend and won't be back until Tuesday to answer any of your replies or questions.
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Welcome to the forum. There is much knowlage on here. I have learned alot from this forum. I have never heard of streching a cushion when attaching it. I use scotch grip 10 applied on both the sub rail and cushion. After it sits a few minutes and is not wet I apply the cushion making sure the nose is even through out. Then I will apply pressure with a roller to make sure the sub rail and cushion are glued to each other. I hoped this helped.
 
...second method would be to stretch the cushions 1 1/2 to 2 inches on each rail, then glue it in place making sure that the nose of the cushion is at the correct height.
Click to expand...

This is the method that was/is used by Dwight Porter on the Renaissance line of tables. The rubber was stretched and nailed on each end of the rail before the compound angles at the end of the rail were cut. The adheasive was a wood type glue that required notable curing time before removing the nails. Doubt that it would work at all with contact types of adheasive such as SG10.

...what type of glue should I use? Again, I've heard of two types, one being super glue and the other being 3m-10 Scotchgrip. What would you recommend.
Click to expand...

I can only imagine problems if superglue is used. We have had excellent results using SG10.

Kerry
www.ridgebackrails.com
 
Best I've seen id Scotch Grip 10 if you can get it locally. If not, you can order it or use barge cement. As far as finishing off the cushions, your best bet if you are doing it yourself is to use a 1 1/2" belt sander as RKC recommends. You can cut the cushions just a bit long and use the sander to finish them off perfectly so you have a good surface area to get the facings on with. I've only done a few tables as a hobby or help to friends but if you do enough searches and reading on here, I'm sure with your background you'll be both pleased and proud of your results. Just take your time and good luck to Ya!
 
kyther, Thanks for replying, Dwight Porter stretched the cushions, did it given the pool balls more or a faster rebound? Cruzin
 
stretched cushions

I have my guesses but I'm not exactly sure why Renaissance tables had stretched cushions. I used to be an AMF/Renaissance dealer and saw the technique being used during a plant tour in Bland Missouri before AMF closed up shop. I do know that Dwight is a top notch table designer and builder so I'm sure he has a good reason. Rebound speed is primarily a factor of cushion nose height assuming a good cushion bond and decent table quality. (There are plenty of AZ threads on nose height to look up).

Kerry
www.ridgebackrails.com
 
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