Custom Cue

The Piper

The Piper

Get Ugly...
Silver Member
Two Questions:
Black or Scruggs. I heard great things about both, and curious other than craftsman ship and playability, what you feel they bring to the table. Any other suggestion for custom cue makers are greatly appreciated. I am currently on the market, have a few designs, and wondering, if I designed the cue, who should I look to, to put it together?

Second, I am a fan of the radially laminated shaft. Other than hardrock maple, has any else seen shafts made of other materials? I have seen Macassar ebony, and tulip wood. What are the pros and cons of that?

thanks for any responses, just hoping for some insight from the experienced.
 
The Piper,

I really like my Scruggs cue and find it to be a very solid hitting cue that is in many ways, an extension of my own arm. PM me if you would like more information.

I can not comment on Richard Blacks (I hope that is who you were asking about) cues as I have not had the opportunity to shoot with one yet. As I understand it, he makes some really nice hitting cues himself though.

Regarding the laminated shaft, I have no experience with those so can not help you there. I am not sure, but Tim Scruggs will probably be willing to turn a laminated shaft for you to use on one of his cues. I am not sure of using the different kinds of wood though.

Some of the others on this site will probably have a bit more information that you will find useful.
 
The Piper said:
Two Questions:
Black or Scruggs. I heard great things about both, and curious other than craftsman ship and playability, what you feel they bring to the table. Any other suggestion for custom cue makers are greatly appreciated. I am currently on the market, have a few designs, and wondering, if I designed the cue, who should I look to, to put it together?

Second, I am a fan of the radially laminated shaft. Other than hardrock maple, has any else seen shafts made of other materials? I have seen Macassar ebony, and tulip wood. What are the pros and cons of that?

thanks for any responses, just hoping for some insight from the experienced.
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i have heard more UNIVERSALLY well recieved comments about scruggs than black. black's cue have an odd hit,,,,,,kind of dense.

i have also heard good things about the tiger x-shaft?,,,i think it is. go to the site. it is laminated into quarters with a core running through the center.
 
Scruggs > Black x 1000. Did you get that? Walk away from the Black, and towards the Scruggs. EVERY Scruggs I've hit with hit great, although his cues, depending on the joint configuration, do have a range of "hit." Nevertheless, they all hit awesome, and as Bruin pointed out, this opinion is pretty much universal.

I feel like a Richard Black basher recently, but I have to say again that his point-work is atrocious. Okay, I'll stop there.

If your design involves 4 or 8 points with veneers, my personal recomendation is Skip Weston. Best pointwork you can find anywhere, from anyone, and imo very good value in a cue (as of now, before his prices hit the roof). You'll get more bang for your buck if you go with Skip (and better point/veneer execution), but you can't lose with Scruggs either.

As for radially laminated shafts (and I assume you don't prefer Predators), check out the Dominator shaft by Dominiak cues; I've hit with one and it hit very solid, with an agreeable taper (for my hands, at least). I believe it's cheaper than the tiger x, and has more laminated pieces to boot, if that makes any difference to you. I believe that you can order it unfinished, like the Predators and have the cuemaker match ringwork and length.

-Roger
 
buddha162 said:
Scruggs > Black x 1000. Did you get that? Walk away from the Black, and towards the Scruggs. EVERY Scruggs I've hit with hit great, although his cues, depending on the joint configuration, do have a range of "hit." Nevertheless, they all hit awesome, and as Bruin pointed out, this opinion is pretty much universal.

I feel like a Richard Black basher recently, but I have to say again that his point-work is atrocious. Okay, I'll stop there.

If your design involves 4 or 8 points with veneers, my personal recomendation is Skip Weston. Best pointwork you can find anywhere, from anyone, and imo very good value in a cue (as of now, before his prices hit the roof). You'll get more bang for your buck if you go with Skip (and better point/veneer execution), but you can't lose with Scruggs either.

As for radially laminated shafts (and I assume you don't prefer Predators), check out the Dominator shaft by Dominiak cues; I've hit with one and it hit very solid, with an agreeable taper (for my hands, at least). I believe it's cheaper than the tiger x, and has more laminated pieces to boot, if that makes any difference to you. I believe that you can order it unfinished, like the Predators and have the cuemaker match ringwork and length.

-Roger
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I actually Like the hit of predators and was under the assumption that radially laminated, like the pie work of a predator, was possible to achieve with exotic woods. Of course it wouldn't hit liek a predator due to ferrule design etc. Thanks for the information and looking into the Scruggs Cues. I do not like veneers. It's strange but I much prefer the look of natural wood outlying natural wood. I prefer very Simple forearms with intricate butt design, and Lot's of Ring work. LOL My design is still a work in progress. I see some cue and think that is an awesome color wrap, and alter the design, then I see leather or shark skin, and well you guys know the story. LOL I know one of these days I am going to end up with more cues than I can play with. :D ;) :rolleyes:
 
Last I looked the wait on a Scruggs cue was somewhere in the several years to get one made? I may be mistaken but I thought it was like 7years? Personally I am a Jacoby cue fan, I have a custom 1 of a kind that for the price I don't think that the playability can be matched. I do however recomend a 3/8 X 10 wood to wood joint as I believe they are superior to any metal jointed cue. Just my .02
 
The Piper said:
I actually Like the hit of predators and was under the assumption that radially laminated, like the pie work of a predator, was possible to achieve with exotic woods. Of course it wouldn't hit liek a predator due to ferrule design etc. Thanks for the information and looking into the Scruggs Cues. I do not like veneers. It's strange but I much prefer the look of natural wood outlying natural wood. I prefer very Simple forearms with intricate butt design, and Lot's of Ring work. LOL My design is still a work in progress. I see some cue and think that is an awesome color wrap, and alter the design, then I see leather or shark skin, and well you guys know the story. LOL I know one of these days I am going to end up with more cues than I can play with. :D ;) :rolleyes:
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Hey I was the same way when I ordered my first cue, but I had an easier time because my preference in cues is not what you would call cutting-edge.

I can tell you that there is good reason why maple is used in the shaft, and it has very little to do with looks. More established cuemakers may not entertain an exotic wood laminated shaft, but you'll never know unless you ask. Please do post pictures when you have the cue, I'm very interested in what you end up with.

Oh and just about anyone can make a nice non-veneered cue. What kind of wood combinations are you contemplating?

-Roger
 
I went to Scrugg's shop several years ago with a pool chum of mine (who was good friends with Timmy). Beautiful shop. We had fresh crab sandwiches, fries, shot the breeze and then played some one pocket on the table he has in the "customer" area (of course this may have changed since then). He had a beautiful cue there that he had just completed and had no owner. I hit balls with it, and liked everything about it except the wrap.

Timmy re-wrapped it in like 5 minutes and before I knew it I was shelling out the dough. After owning it a month I went on to slap a predator on there and loved it twice as much (without thinking that was possible). Great, great, playing and gorgeous cue. Well, I got out of pool and Don Purdy sold the cue for me (and he can vouch for how nice it played)....and after being out of pool for about a year now I've been kind of getting a feeling that I'd like to start playing again.

Stylistically I love Runde Cues the best.......but I just don't know if anything can match how nice the Scrugg's cues feel. So, I might end up taking another trip out there sooner than later, to see what he might have laying around. I think I can promise that if you buy a Scrugg's cue you will NOT be disappointed.

As far joints go, Timmy does them all. I personally prefer a steel joint, but whether you want wood to wood, ivory, steel, etc...Timmy will do it and I promise it will hit beautifully.
 
Hi Matt

How ya been my friend? Long time no see buddy. Thought I would post your Scruggs for ya. Also wated to tell everybody that our own Toby from AZ purchased the cue package I put together for Christmas , was it 03? Lets play soon.
Purdman :cool:
 
Don,

It brings a tear to my eye seeing that beautiful cue again (real sentimental to me). I need to contact Toby and buy her back! I would too! At the time I felt like if I was going to get out of pool and stay out for a while, I just had to sell her so I wouldn't be as tempted to play. It still took a couple of months after that before I was done for a good year. We will definitely play soon.

Matt
 
Hey Piper-

buddha 162 (Roger) is a buddy of mine and we talk about this very subject all the time. I'll say this much: Tim Scruggs is an excellent craftsmen who makes an attractive and highly functional cue. It plays as good as it looks and it looks great! Always!

Richard Black on the other hand is very well-respected and held in high regard by many... although I have yet to figure out why. I've hit with a few Blacks and some of the felt almost hollow! And as far as the inlay work goes, he's hit or miss. Some are on the money. Others show gaps between inlay and wood. And maybe its just me but if I'm laying out a few grand on a "top shelf" cue from a "top notch" maker, sloppy inlays and bad play just don't cut it. If you ask me, I'll tell you... go with Scruggs!

Others to consider: Mottey is the best. Looking to spend less? Try James White. He works out of the Mottey shop so you know he's no joke and the price tag is a little lower. Also look into Searing, Bender, Capone, Tascarella, Thomas Wayne, Skip Weston, etc. (If you're local to New York area, also check out Paul Fanelli. He's a true artist and one of my personal favs.)
Hope some of this helped.

-Brian
 
thank you all

pharaoh68 said:
Hey Piper-

buddha 162 (Roger) is a buddy of mine and we talk about this very subject all the time. I'll say this much: Tim Scruggs is an excellent craftsmen who makes an attractive and highly functional cue. It plays as good as it looks and it looks great! Always!

Richard Black on the other hand is very well-respected and held in high regard by many... although I have yet to figure out why. I've hit with a few Blacks and some of the felt almost hollow! And as far as the inlay work goes, he's hit or miss. Some are on the money. Others show gaps between inlay and wood. And maybe its just me but if I'm laying out a few grand on a "top shelf" cue from a "top notch" maker, sloppy inlays and bad play just don't cut it. If you ask me, I'll tell you... go with Scruggs!

Others to consider: Mottey is the best. Looking to spend less? Try James White. He works out of the Mottey shop so you know he's no joke and the price tag is a little lower. Also look into Searing, Bender, Capone, Tascarella, Thomas Wayne, Skip Weston, etc. (If you're local to New York area, also check out Paul Fanelli. He's a true artist and one of my personal favs.)
Hope some of this helped.

-Brian
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Thnks everyone for replying and helping me out with the info. I have contacted Scruggs and was told that to quote a time frame and a price, he would need the designs. Black told me 8 - 10 weeks.
To answer a couple questions directed to me:
I am looking at a cue with ebony forearm, 8 points 4 long 2 short overlapping. Small points being ivory outlined in purpleheart, and the longer points being curly maple or snake wood, outlined in purple heart.tulipwood. The wrap I was looking at white speckled irish linen, or wine colored to match the outlines. As for the butt, I was going to let the cue maker go to town, and come up with something intricate and matching. also Ring work at A B C D and E. I believe that refers to between the butt capp and butt design, above and below the wrap, and above and below the joing. I am a fan of the ring work ( alternating winows of ivory and ebony on purple heart with sterling silver ring. Sorry i just kept typing, I get lost in this sort of thing.

As for the joint I was thinking possibly glass epoxy (reading about the Cognoscenti and other cue makers that use it, Radial pin, or 5/16 x 14 steel.

On the shafts, I have contacted Russ Espiritu, Mike Webb, etc. and was told that they would do it with certain exotic woods. I was just warned that it would dramatically change the hit or deflection. I was told by Scruggs to use only hard rock maple.

Thanks for all the information, and look forward to posting pictures of it in the near future once all plans are finalized. Biggest part right now is the cash, but I am working on it. :D
 
I have played with both Scruggs and Black cues. I was not overly impressed with the Black cue. The Scruggs cue was awesome. It wasn't a particularly fancy cue, but man did it hit! It was perfectly balanced for me (seemed maybe a bit forward weighted), and just felt GOOD! I was really impressed with it.
 
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