Cylinder Hone?

[Cuesavvy]

I'd like to get my ID spindle bore running a little truer without taking it out and grinding it. (Taiwanese lathe)

I built a set true adapter for my rear chuck, so I know my rear chuck and my main chuck are true. So when using both chucks I'm dead center. But the ID spindle is not true to center. I do have a way to work on shorts over the bed of the lathe but it would be convenent if the ID bore were true.

So here is my question. Has anyone ever tried using a cylinder hone mounted on the tool post to grind the ID of the spindle true?

Any thoughts on this before I try it would be appreciated?

Thanks
Tom

 

[Cuesavvy]

After talking to the guys in the shop I think this will not work. It may make the spindle bore bigger but most likely won't improve the concentricity.

Sorry, had my head up my ...

 

[cuesmith]

I'd like to get my ID spindle bore running a little truer without taking it out and grinding it. (Taiwanese lathe)

I built a set true adapter for my rear chuck, so I know my rear chuck and my main chuck are true. So when using both chucks I'm dead center. But the ID spindle is not true to center. I do have a way to work on shorts over the bed of the lathe but it would be convenent if the ID bore were true.

So here is my question. Has anyone ever tried using a cylinder hone mounted on the tool post to grind the ID of the spindle true?

Any thoughts on this before I try it would be appreciated?

Thanks
Tom

What I've done on all of my lathes is to set up a tool post grinder and ground the chucks. It helps if you have a chuck with the removable jaws for gripping ID's and larger objects. I use these to chuck up a large bearing race which I know is perfectly true. By chucking up the bearing race you can take any backlash or slop out of the scrollwork while grinding the ID of your chuck jaws. This serves 2 important purposes. Your chuck will run true to your ways and spindle and the ID of the chuck will be round (like the cue you're working on) and wont dent the workpiece nearly as much as the original jaws which are designed to hold metal.


just more hot air!


Sherm

 

[cueman]

I am assuming your problem comes in working on forearms and handles that are tapered and not long enought to reach the rear chuck. You mentioned your rear chuck is dead true. If that is the case get some ground round rod that is about one inch in diameter and maybe a foot or so long. Grind a perfect 60 degree point on one end. Then just stick it through the rear check with pointed end inside the spindle. And when you need to drill, cut tenons or face a shorter piece just stick it in until the center hole is centered on the 60 center and that will secure the back end of the work piece. You can also make another rod that is longer but faced off on the end to use as a internal stop to run butt sleeves up against so you can face them all off to the exact same length without having to measure each one. The rear chuck opens up a world of options.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

 

[Sheldon]

I am assuming your problem comes in working on forearms and handles that are tapered and not long enought to reach the rear chuck. You mentioned your rear chuck is dead true. If that is the case get some ground round rod that is about one inch in diameter and maybe a foot or so long. Grind a perfect 60 degree point on one end. Then just stick it through the rear check with pointed end inside the spindle. And when you need to drill, cut tenons or face a shorter piece just stick it in until the center hole is centered on the 60 center and that will secure the back end of the work piece.

Another way to do it is to use a length of rod (or a blem shaft) with a 5/16-18 insert in it. Drill and tap a short 5/16" hole in your forearm (or other short piece) and make sure it is faced off good and square. Then you can take a short piece of 5/16-18 thread and join it to your rod. If both are faced squarely, you now have something long and straight you can grab ahold of, or put a collet on at the rear of the lathe.

 

[Cuesavvy]

Sherm, Chris, Sheldon all great advice! Thanks.

Right now I use a 12" and a 16" long 1 1/2" diameter delrin rods with a 60 degree center on it in my rear chuck to hold the center drill on my shorts inside my spindle true. I think the delrin rod is too heavy and maybe too long because it sometimes gets slightly out of center. Especially on my longer shorts. Though not real sure why because it is a true bar. I know it starts out turning true but then I see the end of the delrin bar that sticks out the rear chuck start to run out a little. Maybe it is because it is delrin and not steel? Maybe the grip on the rear chuck?

I think I will try several things like some smaller diameter and shorter drill rod and see if that helps. I also like the idea of tapping the end of some pcs, then with a true bar attched to the wood and chucked in my rear chuck I'd feel pretty confident that it would stay true.

Thanks again guys!
Tom

 

[cueman]

Sherm, Chris, Sheldon all great advice! Thanks.

Right now I use a 12" and a 16" long 1 1/2" diameter delrin rods with a 60 degree center on it in my rear chuck to hold the center drill on my shorts inside my spindle true. I think the delrin rod is too heavy and maybe too long because it sometimes gets slightly out of center. Especially on my longer shorts. Though not real sure why because it is a true bar. I know it starts out turning true but then I see the end of the delrin bar that sticks out the rear chuck start to run out a little. Maybe it is because it is delrin and not steel? Maybe the grip on the rear chuck?

I think I will try several things like some smaller diameter and shorter drill rod and see if that helps. I also like the idea of tapping the end of some pcs, then with a true bar attched to the wood and chucked in my rear chuck I'd feel pretty confident that it would stay true.

Thanks again guys!
Tom

The Delrin is flexible so that is not a good choice. Steel is the way to go. Another often overlooked solution is to modify your steady rest with a bearing that holds collets. Use it out in front of your headstock to hold one end of the work piece. This is about as true of a method as you can get. Burton Spain cut his short blanks straight, the back one larger straight diameter and the front half of the short blank to another smaller straight diameter so he could hold it in his chuck from either end. That is how it stayed until attached to a handle.

 

[Cuesavvy]

Burton Spain cut his short blanks straight, the back one larger straight diameter and the front half of the short blank to another smaller straight diameter so he could hold it in his chuck from either end. That is how it stayed until attached to a handle.

Chris, that's an interesting bit of information.

I just might pass that along because I am often explaining to people (non cue makers) that there are many ways to build a cue. Some ways and methods are better than others for sure, but just because one cue maker does it different from another does not necassarily mean it won't result in a nice cue. I think that tidbit will emphasize the point I try to make.

I do use a bearing and collet over the bed most of the time, I just got to overthinking my problem. I think.

BTW I tried the camel bone I got from you. Looks great, can i get it in wider pcs?

Thanks
Tom

 

[cueman]

Chris, that's an interesting bit of information.

I just might pass that along because I am often explaining to people (non cue makers) that there are many ways to build a cue. Some ways and methods are better than others for sure, but just because one cue maker does it different from another does not necassarily mean it won't result in a nice cue. I think that tidbit will emphasize the point I try to make.

I do use a bearing and collet over the bed most of the time, I just got to overthinking my problem. I think.

BTW I tried the camel bone I got from you. Looks great, can i get it in wider pcs?

Thanks
Tom

Sorry but the 7/8" x 8" slabs are the largest I can get.