Delaminated OB Classic Pro

[rxcomputers]

Not sure if the is the right forum to post this. I have on ob classic pro "demo" shaft that you can feel little ridges from the ferrule back about 16-18 inches. Also its slightly more narrow right behind the ferrule. I've seen recommendations for filling it in with wood glue, epoxy, super glue. I'm thinking of using a q-wiz on it, then cleaning it really good with magic eraser soaked in denatured alcohol, sand it very lightly with 320 or 400 grit, then using jb weld kwikwood (or jb weld woodweld or ??) to fill in the ridges and the narrow space behind the ferrule, once cure, sanding it with 320, 600, 800, 1500, 2000 grit... then sealing with tiger s4 sealer and finishing with a carnuba wax. Opinions? Bad idea? Better ideas? Its an extra shaft, just thought I'd mess around with it.

 

[rxcomputers]

Pictures.

 

[Kim Bye]

Sometimes it's best to just get a new shaft, those OB shafts are pretty thin walled, You can certainly try to glue it, but it will probably come undone again pretty fast. You can bore the shaft out and plug it with a dowel, then make a new tennon and do a new ferrule, but it's probably not worth it.
Maybe not get a laminated shaft next time and you want have this problem.

 

[Mike Rys]

I have the same shaft and it also delaminated. I retired it a long time ago. The 'ridges' will continue to open with time. There is no harm in trying to 'fix it' but I would I wouldn't get your hopes up. I don't think you would like how the the shaft felt anymore . I suggest retiring the shaft. OB is no longer in business so warrantee is not an option. A good torrefied shaft has a little less deflection and a more pleasing hit without any possibility of delaminating.

 

[Zerksies]

you can try filling it. I don't have much faith on it working. Time for a new shaft. Now I see why they are out of business

 

[Michael Webb]

you can try filling it. I don't have much faith on it working. Time for a new shaft. Now I see why they are out of business

Only problem with that is. The originals are hollow all the way thru. You could drop a pencil thru them.
So...
If you tried thin epoxy, NOT 5 MINUTE EPOXY and poured it in thru the ferrule end, It would melt the foam and keep going.
Or
Fill it from the ferrule end. Stand it straight up, ferrule face down, wrap it gentley with electrical tape, after 2 hours, unwrap it and wipe the epoxy that came thru off with laquer thinner, then rewrap it til it dried then bore it out.
IT'S A LOT OF WORK!!!
But a good learning experience.
Added
Before our wonderful geniuses post.

Clean the shaft first and let it dry.
Don't use surgical tubing. You don't want to change the form of the shaft or restrict the epoxy from coming thru the weakend area's.
Have a nice day!!

 

[Zerksies]

Only problem with that is. The originals are hollow all the way thru. You could drop a pencil thru them.
So...
If you tried thin epoxy, NOT 5 MINUTE EPOXY and poured it in thru the ferrule end, It would melt the foam and keep going.
Or
Fill it from the ferrule end. Stand it straight up, ferrule face down, wrap it gentley with electrical tape, after 2 hours, unwrap it and wipe the epoxy that came thru off with laquer thinner, then rewrap it til it dried then bore it out.
IT'S A LOT OF WORK!!!
But a good learning experience.
Added
Before our wonderful geniuses post.

Clean the shaft first and let it dry.
Don't use surgical tubing. You don't want to change the form of the shaft or restrict the epoxy from coming thru the weakend area's.
Have a nice day!!

I'd probably try some wood filler myself, But seeing the condition it's really time for a new shaft.

 

[Michael Webb]

I'd probably try some wood filler myself, But seeing the condition it's really time for a new shaft.

Understood.
Does wood filler penetrate?
Problem prolonged but not solved.
Jmo

 

[Zerksies]

Understood.
Does wood filler penetrate?
Problem prolonged but not solved.
Jmo

It's thicker then glue. I would assume your really going to have to force it into the splits.

Personally i think it's a waste of time doing this besides getting an education. That shaft has enough splits in it. I'd replace the thing

 

[Michael Webb]

It's thicker then glue. I would assume your really going to have to force it into the splits.

Personally i think it's a waste of time doing this besides getting an education. That shaft has enough splits in it. I'd replace the thing

Education goes a long way.
Why are we in this section.
Lol. You know!

 

[jayman]

I have had great success with this method on old butts with loose veneers. Same concept. Simple delimitation repair;
Edit: clean off any wax etc.. first then proceed.
Use a water proof wood glue Thin it out with some water for better penetration.
While the shaft is spinning slowly, coat it with lots of glue and squeeze it into every nook and cranny. Really force it in there!
Wrap it super tight. Electrical tape is strong enough for this. Support the shaft as needed with your hand while pulling hard on the tape. let dry overnight.
sand and finish.
Go hit a ton....of balls

If anyone has one they are not going to mess with, I'll takem off you hands.

 

[Michael Webb]

I have had great success with this method on old butts with loose veneers. Same concept. Simple delimitation repair;
Use a water proof wood glue Thin it out with some water for better penetration.
While the shaft is spinning slowly, coat it with lots of glue and squeeze it into every nook and cranny. Really force it in there!
Wrap it super tight. Electrical tape is strong enough for this. Support the shaft as needed with your hand while pulling hard on the tape. let dry overnight.
sand and finish.
Go hit a ton....of balls

Water proof glue with water added on a hollow shaft.
Hmmm
I LIKE IT.

 

[Dave38]

Only problem with that is. The originals are hollow all the way thru. You could drop a pencil thru them.
So...
If you tried thin epoxy, NOT 5 MINUTE EPOXY and poured it in thru the ferrule end, It would melt the foam and keep going.
Or
Fill it from the ferrule end. Stand it straight up, ferrule face down, wrap it gentley with electrical tape, after 2 hours, unwrap it and wipe the epoxy that came thru off with laquer thinner, then rewrap it til it dried then bore it out.
IT'S A LOT OF WORK!!!
But a good learning experience.
Added
Before our wonderful geniuses post.

Clean the shaft first and let it dry.
Don't use surgical tubing. You don't want to change the form of the shaft or restrict the epoxy from coming thru the weakend area's.
Have a nice day!!

I agree with Mike, why try to penetrate from the outside in...? Very tough to do....fill the inside, then let it work it's way to the outside using gravity and viscosity? NO BRAINER....Great post Mike!!