Ebony Cues/Radial Pins

buddha162

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If someone is making an Ebony cue with Ebony points (w/o coring the forearm), would it be difficult to keep the weight under 19.5 oz? How would the balance pan out? Also, I've heard that Ebony hits differently from maple; some have called it a "harsher hit." Is this true? The cue I'm looking for will have a flat-faced joint, if that makes any difference.

I want a Radial pin in my cue, but the cuemaker might not be willing to install Radial pins. I've read that the standard 3/8-10 screw offers the same hit, as long as the the facings are true and the cue is screwed tight. Is the only real advantage to the Radial pin reduced wear and tear on the shaft threads, or does it contribute to the hit of the cue (when compared to 3/8-10 variety flat-faced joints)?

Thanks,
Roger
 
cue

buddha162 said:
If someone is making an Ebony cue with Ebony points (w/o coring the forearm), would it be difficult to keep the weight under 19.5 oz? How would the balance pan out? Also, I've heard that Ebony hits differently from maple; some have called it a "harsher hit." Is this true? The cue I'm looking for will have a flat-faced joint, if that makes any difference.

I want a Radial pin in my cue, but the cuemaker might not be willing to install Radial pins. I've read that the standard 3/8-10 screw offers the same hit, as long as the the facings are true and the cue is screwed tight. Is the only real advantage to the Radial pin reduced wear and tear on the shaft threads, or does it contribute to the hit of the cue (when compared to 3/8-10 variety flat-faced joints)?

Thanks,
Roger

Hi Rodger, I build my cues with a pin that I develpoed many years ago. It works very well. it's .348 in dia., and is 11.455 threads per inch. It's not as most think, a 3/8" 10 thread. it's a little lighter in weight than either the 3/8x10 or the radial.

To much weight at he top of the cue, causes the cue to hit real hard. By this happening, you never have a chance to "feel" the shot so to speak. Most shots will feel the same, and we all realize that none are the same.You kind of get a false hit feeling. Not sure of what and how hard your hitting the ball, and guessing at what will happen.

You need to feel the hit of the ball weather it's a slap draw shot or just a fine smooth soft shot. With the radial, and 3/8 x10, this is almost impossible. If i had a choice, and didn't have my own pin design, I would go with the 3/8x10 pin.

Cue of ebony,maple and all differant woods do hit differantly.
I do not understand your question,[ build an ebony cue with ebony points] ???
Do not know what you mean? Why have ebony points over an ebony forarm?
Do you mean ebony frnt with an inter-inlay with ebony?
I build some ebony cues without coring that come in about 18.6 oz's.
Balancing is not a problem.

The most sensitive feeling wood to me is, 'bocote'... plays good and has a great feel.
blud
 
blud said:
Hi Rodger, I build my cues with a pin that I develpoed many years ago. It works very well. it's .348 in dia., and is 11.455 threads per inch. It's not as most think, a 3/8" 10 thread. it's a little lighter in weight than either the 3/8x10 or the radial.

To much weight at he top of the cue, causes the cue to hit real hard. By this happening, you never have a chance to "feel" the shot so to speak. Most shots will feel the same, and we all realize that none are the same.You kind of get a false hit feeling. Not sure of what and how hard your hitting the ball, and guessing at what will happen.

You need to feel the hit of the ball weather it's a slap draw shot or just a fine smooth soft shot. With the radial, and 3/8 x10, this is almost impossible. If i had a choice, and didn't have my own pin design, I would go with the 3/8x10 pin.

Cue of ebony,maple and all differant woods do hit differantly.
I do not understand your question,[ build an ebony cue with ebony points] ???
Do not know what you mean? Why have ebony points over an ebony forarm?
Do you mean ebony frnt with an inter-inlay with ebony?
I build some ebony cues without coring that come in about 18.6 oz's.
Balancing is not a problem.

The most sensitive feeling wood to me is, 'bocote'... plays good and has a great feel.
blud

Hi Blud,

Thanks for replying!

To clarify, my cue will have 4 short-spliced Ebony points with Tiger Maple, Ebony, and Tiger Maple veneers (true hardwood veneers, not dyed sycamore), into an Ebony forearm. It should look very sleek and classy in a black boarskin wrap, and ivory joint.

In any case, I didn't know your pin wasn't a standard 3/8-10. No wonder when my friend who has one of your cues wanted to try out my Predator shaft it wouldn't fit right.

I think I understand what you mean by the forward balance masking the hit of a particular shot. I suppose that could be the case, but then again weight at the front brings my stroke smoothly towards the cueball. My old Falcon was really rear-weighted, and my new Dayton is front weighted (but not nearly as much as a metal-jointed cue); I prefer the Dayton by a mile.

Thanks for the Ebony cue info, now I don't have to worry about playing with a 21 oz cue!

-Roger
 
blud said:
The most sensitive feeling wood to me is, 'bocote'... plays good and has a great feel.
blud

I agree, and IMO, one of the best looking woods out there. Whould you say the same (plays good and has a great feel 'sensitive') for a bocote forearm cored with hard rock maple, with a maple handle (unwrapped, curly or bird's-eye.)?

Thanks

Jon
 
same

BiG_JoN said:
I agree, and IMO, one of the best looking woods out there. Whould you say the same (plays good and has a great feel 'sensitive') for a bocote forearm cored with hard rock maple, with a maple handle (unwrapped, curly or bird's-eye.)?

Thanks

Jon
no question about it.
blud
 
balance point...

As you know, I collect cues of curly maple and ebony. I have several cues made from these woods and they all seem to have a very similar balance point (all from different cue makers). Some have phenolic joint and a couple SS joint. I personaly don't like the front heavy or the rear heavy cues! Front heavy cues tend to feel like the cue is "flying" out of my hands and the rear heavy cues tend to feel like I have to "push" it with more effort. A well balanced cue is a must IMO.

Can't wait to have my BLUDWORTH!

Zim
 
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