Epoxy
- Thread starter Rodney
- Start date
Use the 206 hardner with 105 resin. Allow it to sit on the surface of the pieces for a minute or two or more, or your wood could soak it all up and it not give a good bond. Coat both sufaces liberally and let them soak up what they will then press and let dry over night.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
Devcon epoxy...
Is this okay to use?
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=179.0&catid=38
Zim
Is this okay to use?
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=179.0&catid=38
Zim
Zims Rack said:
Some may say yes, but there are really no 1 to 1 mix epoxies and you are taking a chance. They add fillers to the hardner to make up the 1 to 1 mix. and you don't know when you mix it if you really have the right mix depending how it is blended in the hardner. IE. you could get more or hardner less filler or more filler and less hardner. That can account for why some glue ups seem to fail for no reason even though you did everything the same as usual. It is best to use epoxys you can custom mix yourself.
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I'm sure it would give a good bond, but the cure time (8-12 minutes) is pretty short. Get some that gives you plenty of time to set everything just right.Zims Rack said:
Tracy
RSB-Refugee said:
I think the 8 to 12 minutes is the open working time. It also depends how much you mix at a time as well. Once it is on the piece you are gluing the time slows because you don't have all that mixed epoxy cooking up in the container. He may have as much as 20 to 30 minutes to adjust a piece he has glued, although I would not if I didn't have to. With slower glues you are better off when it comes to wood. You do what they call "Wet out" it lets the glue soak into the wood, then you add additional glue to the piece and assemble. That is why you should not use 5 minute epoxy on any wood applications. It takes a good minute to properly mix the glue and there is no time for it to soak into the wood it is already setting up.
macguy said:
I aggree, the slower is better suited,soaks in better, and has a really good bond. I use several glues depnding on application. Devcon is usable, I have some of that also, and hardly use it anymore, but I do use system three alot. Quick cure & T-88 structural. I like the T-88 when I have the time to let It dry, but the quick cure gets Me by when in a rush.
That for sure, Getting the mixture super close is really important, It can effect drying time considerably, as well as how good the bond takes. Some 2 part epoxies will go bad on you in a hurry, and when you try to use them, they are almost too thick to use at that point, so only get the size bottles you think you will use quickly.
I am just getting into doing more veneer Myself, and altough they will work, I do not think these glues mentioned are exceptable for those, as they are too thick, with the exception of the west sytem that Chris mentioned as It is thinner, and better suited IMO. There are many industrial glues for laminating that can be found with a good search on the web. Probably the types used in the marine industry would be best suited. Just do a search for laminated, Marine, Glues, Epoxies, what ever you can think of, and I am sure many will come up. Think I am going to try the west sytem first, since many cuemakers seem to prefer it.
I do know some people that have done laminating in the marine industry, as I am in a coastal city, next time I meet up with one of them, I am going to get the run down on the best epoxies with wood. If a glue will hold up to the sun, salt water,air, and flex of the ocean, It's got to be strong enough for this use.
Greg
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macguy said:
Did'nt think of that one, has to be strong to put their life at stake. I imagine ultra-lites would be subjected to some of the elements as well. Probably alot of flex also. There sure are more glues out there then I'll probably ever get to try, and they keep getting better.
Zims Rack said:
Hi Zim:
Here's a text book definition for your quick epoxy.
(Quote)
An easy to use, 2-part resin/hardener system for quick repairs, tooling and general bonding, May be used in spot applications to hold parts in position while standard epoxy bonds cure. Bonds to wood, fiberglass and metal. Not recommended for long-term bonds subject to high loads or moisture. One to one mixture, no pumps are required.
macguy said:
who told you there are really no 1:1 epoxies ? I ask this because I have in front of me some System Three T-88 structural Epoxy Adehesive given to me the other day by a mate - say's on the packet "Easy to measure 1:1 ratio , No Fillers , Dries Clear" !
lignum said:
Epoxys are blended with resin and hardener in a ratio to get the maximum performance. This is NEVER 1 to 1 chemically. There is always more resin then hardener usually 3 or 5 to 1. In fact to really get it correct it will be more precise then that, such as 3.7 to 1. To achieve this kind of accuracy you usually measure by weight. There are also fillers that can be added to epoxy to add strength. Some are fibers and some are even metal like dust, I assume that is what they are referring to when they say no fillers. Fillers always add color to the epoxy and you say it says it is clear. If you have an epoxy that says 1 to 1 you can be sure in the hardener there are inert additives to make up the volume for the mix. They are designed to be sold off the shelf for the public with no real know-how or tools to make the real chemical mix that is desired. The hardener is an activator or catalyst, it would never be in equal volume to the resin chemically.
I came back to add this, I used the word inert and that may not be entirely correct. There may be non reactive additives added to the hardener the do add something to the quality of the bond in some way or at least don't effect it negatively but are really there to create the equal volume mix. The actual reactive hardener though will be much less in volume then the resin.
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lignum said:
I can't speak for all, But I Use It sometimes, and I do have to custom mix ocasionally. Why this is I could not say for sure, but I will say mixing at different temps. seems to have some effect. sometimes the recomended ratio is perfect, and other times It comes up short on hardener for me. If that happens it may dry eventually, but would not trust the bond as much. A good way to tell is by watching your mixing plate. Put your stiring stick in the leftover epoxy and watch it as It dries. I'm sure you already know you can learn alot from it, as far as how brittle It is,or how well It cures. Preferably, do a test mix to be sure when possible, and mix at the same temps. If you get the mix correct the stuff is great, and I love the bond because It's not too brittle, therefore seems to grab well, and hold up to shock better then some glues.
As to whether there are fillers, I have no Idea other then what you read, but I have noticed that the ratio can be inconsistent at times. Not a problem once you get use to working with It though.
fair enough macguy , maybe they mean "no fillers" in a slightly different way , as in like it's thin epoxy . I know it's a lower viscosity than the commonly used Araldite here and in the Uk .
Then again maybe they just lie , companies occasionally do
Anyone tried the T88 before , I haven't had to use it yet ?
Then again maybe they just lie , companies occasionally do
Anyone tried the T88 before , I haven't had to use it yet ?