Faded Veneers on Titlist

td873

td873

C is for Cookie
Silver Member
I have a Titlist butt with veneers that appear to be pretty faded (especially the purple and teal). The brown veneers are darker than their next door neighbors, but for the most part, all the others actually appear pretty close to the same color as the natural veneer.

I have a couple questions for the cue makers experienced with Titlist conversions:
I) My first question - is there a way to "revive" the colors? Will sanding the cue down bring out the vibrant purple and teal colors of this cue? If so, how far will I have to sand the cue? Is there a "chemical bath" that will help?

II) Based on the diameter of the cue, the joint would be approximately 2.5" above the top of the purple veneer (about a foot from the bottom of the splice) - where it is about .875" in diameter. BUT, if I start from here, the butt of the cue will only be 25" long. (Is this normal with Titlist cues?) What is the best way to "add" an extra 2 or 3" on the cue?

III) Has anyone used the cue as just a "forearm" and added a handle and a butt sleeve? Or is it preferable keep the to the full-splice as much as possible?

Thanks!

Thomas
 
I have converted using both suggestions you mentioned. If I extend the butt to get an extra 4 inches, I usually go up inside at least 8 inches. It has been more popular to just use the forearm. Sometimes the veneers will pop back in color as I turn but I have had a couple that they still appeared faded. I have never used anything to wash the cue but I have seen others that have tried to use a colored marker. It's never been even.
 
td873 said:
I) My first question - is there a way to "revive" the colors? Will sanding the cue down bring out the vibrant purple and teal colors of this cue? If so, how far will I have to sand the cue? Is there a "chemical bath" that will help?
Click to expand...

It is impossible to tell how it will look untill you take a cut. I have had some real ugly blanks come out nice after the first cut. You will have to do more than sand to get to fresh wood.

td873 said:
II) Based on the diameter of the cue, the joint would be approximately 2.5" above the top of the purple veneer (about a foot from the bottom of the splice) - where it is about .875" in diameter. BUT, if I start from here, the butt of the cue will only be 25" long. (Is this normal with Titlist cues?) What is the best way to "add" an extra 2 or 3" on the cue?
Click to expand...

You need to add to the length. I cut about 5" off of the butt. Then I add a maple dowel the right lenght and sleeve the piece I cut off over it. I always leave as much of the full splice as I can. I do mine so that the bottom of the splice is 12.5 inches from the joint because my wrap groove starts 12.25 from the joint. You may have to adjust to your specs. There is a picture of a wrapless conversion that I am doing in the cue gallery right now. In that case I had to add a piece of rosewood from my stock to get the cue the right length.

td873 said:
III) Has anyone used the cue as just a "forearm" and added a handle and a butt sleeve? Or is it preferable keep the to the full-splice as much as possible?
Click to expand...

IMHO you should leave the cue as a full splice. I'm sure others will have a different oppinion.
 
IMHO you should leave the cue as a full splice. I'm sure others will have a different oppinion.[/QUOTE]

What if they want C rings.
 
Sometimes you see a cue for sale and the seller says its a full splice but theres a c ring and you go hmmm its that really a full splice
 
kenl said:
Sometimes you see a cue for sale and the seller says its a full splice but theres a c ring and you go hmmm its that really a full splice
Click to expand...

I've never done it but Bill Hagen used to build one piece cues with a deco-ring at the C joint in front of the wrap and sometimes below the wrap. He would cut a groove the proper width and depth he wanted and inlay veneer marquatrey (spelling) strips cut to the correct length and wrap and glue them into the groove. Made for very simple but intricate looking deco-rings.
Dick
 
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Michael Webb said:
IMHO you should leave the cue as a full splice. I'm sure others will have a different oppinion.
Click to expand...

What if they want C rings.[/QUOTE]

I just can't see rings above the wrap on a cue that started out life as a full splice. If someone asked I would have to decline.
 
Murray Tucker said:
It is impossible to tell how it will look untill you take a cut. I have had some real ugly blanks come out nice after the first cut. You will have to do more than sand to get to fresh wood.
Click to expand...

I broke the pinion gear on my handwheel, so I decided to sand the finish off of the Titlist butt and take off a bit of wood. I got to some fresh wood and a bit of color after a number of passes using 400 grit. I decided to stop sanding when the diameter at the top of the points was .92"

Q: I think that I can get a bit more color if I continue to sand, but I'm concerned about reducing the diameter at the top of the points any further. Any suggestions about my desire to sand away? Can I sand below .90"? Does anyone think another 2 or 3 thousandths more will make a big difference?

-td
 
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