ferrule material
- Thread starter Tex
- Start date
shafts
Hi Tex,
Most cuemakers today, use or recommend, phonlic ferrules for breaking. No leather tip.
Laminated flats, I do not agree with. Many think they are great. Good for them.
Flat laminated shafts have in my opinion, 3 major problems.
1.-being flats, with many layers all running the same direction, cause them to be stiffer on one side as oppossed to the other side. So when using it, you have a stiffer side than the other, and must always turn [ roll it 90 degrees],it to the faviorte side. Doing this makes your tip become flat or have a flat spot from holding the cue the same each time for breaking.
2.-Also there is not enough "flex" in the shaft for breaking. The shaft must flex a bit, or it will really squirt the ball [deflection] to the side.Much harder to control the cue ball.
3.- Being that it's laminated, with so many layers, it become much much heavier than the normall straight grain maple shaft. Lot of glue is used, and this not only makes it heavier, but also being laminates, it stiffer.
My opinion,will not use them for my quality cues.
Note,
Something to remember guys, when you buy a custom cue, the maker has built it with the best possible products to make his or her cue play at it's best. Changing shafts, weight bolts, and so forth, makes the cue not play as well as intended by the builder.
blud
Tex said:
Hi Tex,
Most cuemakers today, use or recommend, phonlic ferrules for breaking. No leather tip.
Laminated flats, I do not agree with. Many think they are great. Good for them.
Flat laminated shafts have in my opinion, 3 major problems.
1.-being flats, with many layers all running the same direction, cause them to be stiffer on one side as oppossed to the other side. So when using it, you have a stiffer side than the other, and must always turn [ roll it 90 degrees],it to the faviorte side. Doing this makes your tip become flat or have a flat spot from holding the cue the same each time for breaking.
2.-Also there is not enough "flex" in the shaft for breaking. The shaft must flex a bit, or it will really squirt the ball [deflection] to the side.Much harder to control the cue ball.
3.- Being that it's laminated, with so many layers, it become much much heavier than the normall straight grain maple shaft. Lot of glue is used, and this not only makes it heavier, but also being laminates, it stiffer.
My opinion,will not use them for my quality cues.
Note,
Something to remember guys, when you buy a custom cue, the maker has built it with the best possible products to make his or her cue play at it's best. Changing shafts, weight bolts, and so forth, makes the cue not play as well as intended by the builder.
blud
blud said:
Blud,
Thanks for the advise!
I am getting ready to have a cue made and wanted to ask the maker for the
best possible materials.
I once bought a Bludworth sneaky pete from Jersey Red in Houston, was this
one of yours?
I have one other question. What is your professional opinion on the radial laminated shafts?
I noticed on www.cuecomponents.com they are quite proud of the 1" radial
dowels they have. $60 each compared to about $23 each for the best maple dowel they sell.
Are there any benefits over a good maple shaft?
Thanks in advance!
Best ferrule is LBM with buffalo tip for breaking imo.
V
((VH))
Guest
Very true Blud!!!
For breaking, IMO phenolic or LBM and I tried TipTec tips by cuetec before, hard as a rock! Dunno if it still exists
shafts
Hi Tex,
Yes, If you bought it from my long time friend "red" it was one of mine.This had to be in the early 90's. I moved out west in late 93....Could of been mine.
I do not believe in laminated shafts, there to heavy, to stiff, and bend or flex only against the flat side. On edge, no way to flex. All shafts need to flex some what. However, not to much and become whippie, just enought to keep from squirting the ball with to much deflection...
I prefer maple shafts.They are my choice of woods. I also use "ash" for some shafts. I, like them also. They are not as clean as maple, but play a little better, and have great memorie. They come back to shape as they should, and cause much less wrapage.
blud
Give me a call if you want? I would like to have a shot at building you a new BLUD CUE.....830-232-5991
blud
Tex said:
Hi Tex,
Yes, If you bought it from my long time friend "red" it was one of mine.This had to be in the early 90's. I moved out west in late 93....Could of been mine.
I do not believe in laminated shafts, there to heavy, to stiff, and bend or flex only against the flat side. On edge, no way to flex. All shafts need to flex some what. However, not to much and become whippie, just enought to keep from squirting the ball with to much deflection...
I prefer maple shafts.They are my choice of woods. I also use "ash" for some shafts. I, like them also. They are not as clean as maple, but play a little better, and have great memorie. They come back to shape as they should, and cause much less wrapage.
blud
Give me a call if you want? I would like to have a shot at building you a new BLUD CUE.....830-232-5991
blud
V
((VH))
Guest
Blud
Have you already done that ash forearm you said before?
Have you already done that ash forearm you said before?
V
((VH))
Guest
blud said:
I'll try to get a few ash boards and make a quickie cue and see how it plays then