finishing a triangle tip?

troyroy78

I can average 2 ball's :)
Silver Member
When installing a triangle tip, how do you polish up the sides of the tip to make it nice and shiny?

I have installed a tip using a lathe but can't seem to get the sides nicely burnished. Any info on this.

Also what is the best way to pick a good triangle tip out of a box? any good methods for selecing the right tip?



Any help would be gratefully appreciated.


Troyroy
 
I use a Q-tip dipped in ammonia to wet all around the side of the tip, then burnish with a piece of leather. I think I picked up the ammonia idea from a post Blackheart made a while ago. It works really well on all the tips I've installed so far; the side stays glossy and seems to reduce mushrooming a little.
 
From my experience, Triangles don't burnish very well. The leather is very course. Work it down with as fine a grit sandpaper as possible...then burnish.


troyroy78 said:
When installing a triangle tip, how do you polish up the sides of the tip to make it nice and shiny?

I have installed a tip using a lathe but can't seem to get the sides nicely burnished. Any info on this.

Also what is the best way to pick a good triangle tip out of a box? any good methods for selecing the right tip?



Any help would be gratefully appreciated.


Troyroy
 
Last edited:
That sounds like a good idea...I'm going to try that real soon. Thanks for the advice.

roddyc said:
I use a Q-tip dipped in ammonia to wet all around the side of the tip, then burnish with a piece of leather. I think I picked up the ammonia idea from a post Blackheart made a while ago. It works really well on all the tips I've installed so far; the side stays glossy and seems to reduce mushrooming a little.
 
roddyc said:
I use a Q-tip dipped in ammonia to wet all around the side of the tip, then burnish with a piece of leather. I think I picked up the ammonia idea from a post Blackheart made a while ago. It works really well on all the tips I've installed so far; the side stays glossy and seems to reduce mushrooming a little.
I use shellawax which is a turners friction polish,works real good
 
Charlie Edwards said:
That sounds like a good idea...I'm going to try that real soon. Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, I think when it was originally talked about it, it was said that ammonia has some type of reaction with the leather and when it dries, the leather is harder and less pliable which is ideal for the sidewall of a tip. You have to be careful not to get too much on the crown though as miscuing can be a problem if the outter edge is too hard.
 
troyroy78 said:
When installing a triangle tip, how do you polish up the sides of the tip to make it nice and shiny?

I have installed a tip using a lathe but can't seem to get the sides nicely burnished. Any info on this.

Also what is the best way to pick a good triangle tip out of a box? any good methods for selecing the right tip?



Any help would be gratefully appreciated.


Troyroy
Burnish the side with a little shaft sealer if you are not happy with the shine. To pick the good tips it would be easier to tell you how to eliminate the bad as most Triangles are good. Look at the back of the tip. If it has a huge dip in it toss it. If it is fairly flat keep it. Then to make sure it is the right hardness press it in a vise to where the middle flattens out about even with the edge. Now almost all your Triangles will be nice and consistant. Forget the rubber durometer and press them all as they are not presed hard enough in the middle at the factory.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
cueman,

when pressing the tips do i need to soak them in anything 1st like the milk dud idea or just press them as they are?

thanks


troyroy
 
Tip finish

Follow Chris's method and burnish with leather. After the burnish, drizzle a little thin superglue onto the side of the tip and use a paper towel to smooth it and run it down the ferule while spinning in a lathe. This will add shine to the tip, help keep it from mushrooming and help keep the chalk build up off the ferule and make it easier to clean. You can re-burnish if desired to give the super shine to the tip sides.
I hope this helps.
 
burnishing

I forgot to mention- Be careful when burnishing not to create too much heat. You could melt the epoxy that is holding the ferule on.
 
After burnishing I like the old black sharpie on the sides, Makes the tip look nice and uniform
 
I try to select tips that are shred resistant. After sanding the back of the tip with 100 grit, I examine the result with a magnifying glass. If I see distinct groves cut into the back of the tip and no evidence of shredding I select that tip. Some Le Pros and (to a lesser extent Triangles) shred a lot. It seems strange but all Moori's shred on the backs but the surfaces are shred resistant.
 
BlindWizard said:
I try to select tips that are shred resistant. After sanding the back of the tip with 100 grit, I examine the result with a magnifying glass. If I see distinct groves cut into the back of the tip and no evidence of shredding I select that tip. Some Le Pros and (to a lesser extent Triangles) shred a lot. It seems strange but all Moori's shred on the backs but the surfaces are shred resistant.

I use a 120 grit sandpaper to scuff the backs of those tips that shred too easily.........I use mink oil paste wax (sparingly) on the sides and they burnish fine, but don't have the black color on the sides that some want.
I keep a cheap leather glove near my lathe,,,just put it on and burnish away... j
 
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