Looks better than mine. It should be fixable by shimming under the casting mounts. Doesn't bother me.Anyone know if this is normal or if not, how to fix it? It's the same on all castings, side pockets included.
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How bad is yours? I don't notice it other than when my cue is directly above the point of the casting and have to adjust my bridge to avoid it. I haven't dragged my cue right over one of the points yet, but I can imagine the scar it could make if I do.Looks better than mine. It should be fixable by shimming under the casting mounts. Doesn't bother me.
Edit: this is for older Gold CrownsElegant fix in this thread here: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/the-perfect-gc1-2-3-4-5-6-really.539931/post-7177652
Quick and dirty fix is to simply put a wood wedge between the casting and the rail right next to the bolt.
How bad is yours? I don't notice it other than when my cue is directly above the point of the casting and have to adjust my bridge to avoid it. I haven't dragged my cue right over one of the points yet, but I can imagine the scar it could make if/when I do.
I'll try to get a picture soon.Do you have a pic with just the corner casting removed...? Curious what the rails look like beyond the what the manual illustrates.
These look really good on the top surface. I wouldn't really mind the edge near the skirt sticking out like that since it's not a place my hand would be when bridging.When I reclothed my table I fixed that issue. Mine sat higher than yours are in the photo though.
Once I assembled the top and had it secured to the slate, I crawled under the table, loosened the casting bolts a bit and had my buddy push down on them and re-tightened. Not all of mine needed that correction. Side pockets looked good.
Solved it 90%. They sat an 1/8"or more proud, now much better. I couldn't get them flush at the front where the rail is, no matter who pushed down lol. So we compromised at that height.
An issue I couldn't fix is that the skirt tapers from flush to a gap.
I talked with RKC about this today, and he said on the GC4, you need to carefully remove a little bit of the wood under the casting with a sharp chisel. And if the back of it is low, you can shim it up with some tape.I'll try to get a picture soon.
I have two ideas in mind:
- With toothpicks/business card/duct tape, shim the outside of the castings up so that the inside "corners" that are sticking up start to level out. I'd place the shims on the rails where the castings rest.
- This wouldn't make the casting level with the rail, but would at least take those raised points from pointed "mountains" to flatter "plateaus".
- Either by hand or with a Dremel, remove some of the rail material underneath the castings where they stick up.
- I'd probably attempt this after trying #1 since it'd be harder to undo if I messed something up.