heavy cues and back heavy balance++

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ive been reading the thread about weight training
and thought about this
the old style 20 oz plus cues with thick butts
should we be buying and playing with these type of cues??
your thoughts appreciated
 
ive been reading the thread about weight training
and thought about this
the old style 20 oz plus cues with thick butts
should we be buying and playing with these type of cues??
your thoughts appreciated

When you say "old style" cues, how old do you mean?

Like, as far back as clay balls and thick, slow cloth?
 
When you say "old style" cues, how old do you mean?

Like, as far back as clay balls and thick, slow cloth?

i mean cues that are 20-21 oz and have a balance point around 18 inches from the butt
the older cues also have thicker handles or the area where you grip is thicker than most cues made today (i refrained from saying thick butts to avoid all the possible immature responses that that phrase might generate)
yes these cues were more prevalent in the days of slow cloth and clay balls
i ask the question because
i currently play with a 19,2 oz cue with a 19 inch balance point
it feels very "neutral "in my hand and i like the way it plays
i also have a cue from a well respected cuemaker who is now retired that was made in the 1970s
from time to time i take it out to play with
there is no question i can move the cue ball around the table for 9 ball patterns with less effort
but i have trouble with some delicate one pocket shots playing with it
also
since the handle is thicker than im used to it feels like im playing with a sledgehammer (exaggeration)
but from the other thread if it helped my stroke stay straighter i was wondering whether i should give a more extended look at it becoming my playing cue
i know its the indian and not the arrow
but id like to know
your thoughts??
 
Maybe look at a Predator with the uniloc weight system. You can shift and adjust the weight to find what you like.
 
I think cues between 19 and 20oz are a good mix of enough weight for ball pocketing, yet still light enough for finesse shots.

If you like the heavier feel, you may want to go closer to 20.

Many cues have 1/2 or 1 oz washers in the bottom. You can unscrew the bottom of your present cue and add a washer and see how it feels.

Or you can unscrew the bottom of your old cue and remove a washer and then try it---- or take a washer from the old cue and put it in the new one. Weigh the washer first.
 
Old Style?

What you describe is the only style cue I have ever used.

I started with a Palmer in 1974 and never acquired a modern style cue. Even my customs have 1 1/4" butts and range in weight from 20-21 oz. I own one Palmer that for me is very light and I have a hard time adjusting to it.

You can have a custom cue made to your specifications or you can add or remove weight to your present cue as another person suggested. You can also have an experienced cuemaker adjust the weight and balance point.
 
Hi Larry,

I have 6 of the older style cues that came with my table from the early to mid 60s. They're 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, & 21 ounces.

I never liked a heavy cue. I always played with a 15 or 17 oz. cue. The older gentlemen next door that I stole my game from liked the 15 oz. cue so I always made sure to grab the 17 so the 15 was available for him.

When I started to play leagues I went looking for a two pc. cue. I could not find one that I really liked. Well I did finally find one, but it had pink vaneers & accents & I thought to myself, 'I can't be walking into pool halls & bars with pink on my cue'. So...I did not buy it & went home. Then I realised, 'I don't care if it's pink. It's the best one I've felt so far.' I went back to get it & could not find it. So, I asked about it. The clerk told me that they had just sold it to a little old man. The wise old man did not care if it had pink on it either. I snoozed I loozed.

Anyway I started playing league carrying my 17 oz. 1 pc. cue. I burned my last name into the butt to be able to show that it was my cue. I later had it cut into a 2 pc. cue. Later when I bought a new 2pc. cue, it took a while to get used to the smaller butt. Also very many of the much older cues had a European conical taper to the shafts & not a 'pro' taper. My 17 oz. did & that was another adjustment to which I needed to become accustomed.

Sorry for the long detour.

Anyway, I found & always thought that I could always add umpf to a shot with a lighter cue but it was more difficult to soft finesse a shot with a heavy cue. Just like Fran said. As usual, I agree with her. So it made more sense to me to keep it at 18 oz. give or take a bit.

Now, given the topic here, I would say it might be beneficial to train with a heavy cue at home but to play & compete with a more normal cue. Some will say that you should use the same cue all of the time & never vary for a number of reasons & I might tend to agree when one gets really serious. But until you're playing for a world championship, I don't think using a heavy cue at home is going to destroy your game & as you have suggested it might just help to solidify your stroke.

On an aside, I just picked up a very slightly used OB Pro & it is 30" long. I have never played with one before but I like it very much. It changed the balance of my cue just a hair more forward & feels even better to me than before. Also it has a European, conical taper that I seem to like better than a 'pro' taper. I don't know from where that term came as I think many of the old pros had conical tapers on their cues but I'm not sure. Maybe Fran or someone else knows more about that.

Anyway, there's my long nickels worth that is probably worth less than 2 cents.

Best to Y'a,
Rick
 
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I also use 20-1/4 and 21 oz cues. Both are Ebony, weight forward cues.

The 21 oz is an old palmer, thick butt.
I barely move my arm and the cue ball does whatever I want.

Very little effort required with the stroke, just let the weight of the cue do the work. The key to finesse with heavier cue is a short delivery,short and smooth follow through.
No reason to pull back to an 9 inch bridge and deliver for a 3 inch cue ball roll, it's also more accurate, easier to keep a straight stroke, at least it is for me.

I have tried 19 oz and lighter cues, they feel like I have to do too much work, especially if I have to load up with power.

Years ago on old slow nap cloth you needed a big stroke, today it takes little effort to move the cue ball.

A stroke requires control of mass, propel the mass as needed and what feels best fo you, or myself, everyone is different

This is what works for me
 
I also use 20-1/4 and 21 oz cues. Both are Ebony, weight forward cues.

The 21 oz is an old palmer, thick butt.
I barely move my arm and the cue ball does whatever I want.

Very little effort required with the stroke, just let the weight of the cue do the work. The key to finesse with heavier cue is a short delivery,short and smooth follow through.
No reason to pull back to an 9 inch bridge and deliver for a 3 inch cue ball roll, it's also more accurate, easier to keep a straight stroke, at least it is for me.

I have tried 19 oz and lighter cues, they feel like I have to do too much work, especially if I have to load up with power.

Years ago on old slow nap cloth you needed a big stroke, today it takes little effort to move the cue ball.

A stroke requires control of mass, propel the mass as needed and what feels best fo you, or myself, everyone is different

This is what works for me

see bolded above
this is what i was wondering if this style of cue would help solidify straight a stroke??
 
see bolded above
this is what i was wondering if this style of cue would help solidify straight a stroke??

I am not a scientist but I would say it could help, never gave it much thought until recently.
I notice players with a long bridge and long stroke running off course on the delivery,wobbling,decelerating, causing a crooked stroke, poor delivery.

Watch many of the worlds best,,,Long Bridge, short backswing and deliver.
Much harder to run off course with that style, more accurate and straight.

Long bridge, long backstroke, long delivery on every shot is tough to control and deliver straight.

This hurts Shane when he is on fast equiptment, he has problems holding the cue ball due to propelling the mass that long distance on delivery, He ends up on the 50 yard line or too long many times, it has cost him in World Events
.

Sorry to go off topic but I think a straight stroke starts when you stand over the ball and everything is connected, its a flow and feel, the stroke is everything.
There may be something to the heavy cue theory, if I had to I would try it for sure.
 
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