Help with my jumping (using draw and follow)
- Thread starter Pete
- Start date
i think you have to be a LOT more accurate with where you hit the cue ball in order to get it to draw intentionally.
for example, two or three mm's lower can make the difference between having the cue ball stop on contact and having it draw back. any lower and the cue ball may not jump at all. you have a VERY small margin for error.
also it depends whether you're using a phenolic tip or a leather one.
getting the ball to jump will be easier with a phenolic tip but accurately drawing back will be trickier. with a leather tip it'll be the other way round i think.
anyway one thing i am certain on is this is extremely advanced territory that even most of the pro's don't particularly venture into. so first things first, make sure you have an EXTREMELY solid and smooth jump stroke. you want to be popping that cue ball over and stopping the cue ball consistently and effortlessly before you try and draw or follow from it.
perhaps john barton can chime in here as he is as good a jumper as anybody and has a wealth of knowledge on the subject.
for example, two or three mm's lower can make the difference between having the cue ball stop on contact and having it draw back. any lower and the cue ball may not jump at all. you have a VERY small margin for error.
also it depends whether you're using a phenolic tip or a leather one.
getting the ball to jump will be easier with a phenolic tip but accurately drawing back will be trickier. with a leather tip it'll be the other way round i think.
anyway one thing i am certain on is this is extremely advanced territory that even most of the pro's don't particularly venture into. so first things first, make sure you have an EXTREMELY solid and smooth jump stroke. you want to be popping that cue ball over and stopping the cue ball consistently and effortlessly before you try and draw or follow from it.
perhaps john barton can chime in here as he is as good a jumper as anybody and has a wealth of knowledge on the subject.
The trick to making a jump shot draw is how you land the cue ball...
You have to land the cue ball exactly at the object ball or possibly one hop it, but it must be contacting the cloth and the object ball at contact time.... otherwise you'll get almost no draw out of the shot. Also, you have to hit slightly "lower" than you would for a no-draw jump shot of the same length with a bit of the same stroke you would use for a normal draw, but at the same time punch like a regular jump shot.... it becomes a total feel shot when you can do it... And don't expect to be able to do it if the object ball is over 4 feet away.
You have to land the cue ball exactly at the object ball or possibly one hop it, but it must be contacting the cloth and the object ball at contact time.... otherwise you'll get almost no draw out of the shot. Also, you have to hit slightly "lower" than you would for a no-draw jump shot of the same length with a bit of the same stroke you would use for a normal draw, but at the same time punch like a regular jump shot.... it becomes a total feel shot when you can do it... And don't expect to be able to do it if the object ball is over 4 feet away.