I need 5/16 X 14 two inch fully threaded rod - where to find?

mikemosconi

mikemosconi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an older two piece cue. The butt end has a one inch treaded insert for a joint screw ( old 5/16 14 joint screw is missing) - the shaft joint also has a 5/16 14 one inch insert. So, I need a 5/16 14 2 inch threaded rod to make the connection- All the 5/16 14 cue joint threaded rods seem to be about 3 inches in length.

I cannot seem to find on the internet searches a 2 inch 5/16 14 fully threaded rod- does that just not exist? When I try to fit a 3 inch 5/16 14 threaded rod- there is a one inch gap between the butt and shaft. I have no tools to cut down the three inch rod. Any idea where I can get a two inch 5/16-14 threaded rod or what else to do? -Thanks.Mike. SEE PHOTOS duff1.JPGduff2.JPG
 
Ask a neighbor to borrow their hacksaw or go to a store and buy a cheap one.

It is supposed to go 2” in so whatever is blocking it should be removed. A cue maker could do that pretty quick and set the pin properly.
Scott
 
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mikemosconi said:
I have an older two piece cue. The butt end has a one inch treaded insert for a joint screw ( old 5/16 14 joint screw is missing) - the shaft joint also has a 5/16 14 one inch insert. So, I need a 5/16 14 2 inch threaded rod to make the connection- All the 5/16 14 cue joint threaded rods seem to be about 3 inches in length.

I cannot seem to find on the internet searches a 2 inch 5/16 14 fully threaded rod- does that just not exist? When I try to fit a 3 inch 5/16 14 threaded rod- there is a one inch gap between the butt and shaft. I have no tools to cut down the three inch rod. Any idea where I can get a two inch 5/16-14 threaded rod or what else to do? -Thanks.Mike. SEE PHOTOSView attachment 770487View attachment 770488
Click to expand...

I bet you can figure out a way to shorten it

If not, I will cut one down and send it
 
You are headed for tears. If the insert only goes into the butt one inch, you are likely going to split the butt right at the joint collar eventually. You have two stress risers basically in a line across the cue.

You'd be way better off getting rid of the insert and putting a phenolic or hard maple insert in at least 2.5-3" deep.

19year-old me discovered this on a couple of my first cues.
 
I have never seen 5/16×14" sold by the inch, 3 inches at minimum. I have some that I could cut down and send, but as DeeDeeCues suggested, you should have at least 3" for your joint pin.
 
Ģüśţāṿ said:
And where could one purchase this book?
Click to expand...
My apologies.
I thought about that once.
I have everything logged, from restorations to refinishes to joint screws to diciplines of veneering. All 3 methods
Everything step by step.
To Dangerous!
Forgive me!
 
Michael Webb said:
My apologies.
I thought about that once.
I have everything logged, from restorations to refinishes to joint screws to diciplines of veneering. All 3 methods
Everything step by step.
To Dangerous!
Forgive me!
Click to expand...
I would like to thank everyone here for their contributions and very kind offers to assist me in my SUCCESSFUL ( I think), attempt to complete my first ( and probably last:):):) )Vintage cue "conversion". I found this unused mint Dufferin Ebony Full Splice Silver Leaf cue being sold by a woman way out in British Columbia Canada for only $90 Canadian ($65 U.S.). I had a beautiful black collar joint matching shaft in my collection that I knew would go great with this cue. I had to remove the existing 5/16 14 Dufferin joint screw as it had a shoulder that would not fit through my 5/16 14 shaft pilot- see photo of the removed Dufferin brass joint.
Well, I cut down a 5/16 14 3 inch joint screw, after a lot of careful measuring, and buying a 6 inch hobby hack saw last night:) ;and I was able to get the new conversion shaft to match up perfectly. The joint screw is now into the threaded Dufferin cue butt insert very securely and I played with it today- it plays very solidly- no noise or discernible vibration at all -- I am extremely pleased! Photos attached- I always wanted one of these cues, and in this condition, it is a collectors dream - although now altered to be much more playable with the new shaft- the original shaft fits as well. THANKS!duff3.JPGduff4.JPG
 
Michael Webb said:
My apologies.
I thought about that once.
I have everything logged, from restorations to refinishes to joint screws to diciplines of veneering. All 3 methods
Everything step by step.
To Dangerous!
Forgive me!
Click to expand...

I think you should post it here so I can enjoy the s-show that ensues 😳🤣😂!
 
mikemosconi said:
I would like to thank everyone here for their contributions and very kind offers to assist me in my SUCCESSFUL ( I think), attempt to complete my first ( and probably last:):):) )Vintage cue "conversion". I found this unused mint Dufferin Ebony Full Splice Silver Leaf cue being sold by a woman way out in British Columbia Canada for only $90 Canadian ($65 U.S.). I had a beautiful black collar joint matching shaft in my collection that I knew would go great with this cue. I had to remove the existing 5/16 14 Dufferin joint screw as it had a shoulder that would not fit through my 5/16 14 shaft pilot- see photo of the removed Dufferin brass joint.
Well, I cut down a 5/16 14 3 inch joint screw, after a lot of careful measuring, and buying a 6 inch hobby hack saw last night:) ;and I was able to get the new conversion shaft to match up perfectly. The joint screw is now into the threaded Dufferin cue butt insert very securely and I played with it today- it plays very solidly- no noise or discernible vibration at all -- I am extremely pleased! Photos attached- I always wanted one of these cues, and in this condition, it is a collectors dream - although now altered to be much more playable with the new shaft- the original shaft fits as well. THANKS!View attachment 770697View attachment 770698
Click to expand...

I will reiterate my warning. If that insert only goes down an inch and you added a collar to the butt, you are very likely to break the forearm of the cue eventually. I know, a couple of my early cues did the exact same thing for the exact same reason. You won't feel any rattle or looseness, but it will eventually break. One of my cues lasted three hours, another lasted several years. The first broke right before my engineering class got into stress risers, so I expected the second one to break and kept it as a personal cue. The first was a gabon ebony forearm, which is pretty brittle. The second was purpleheart, which is very strong and durable.

Your mileage may vary, but I doubt it.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I will reiterate my warning. If that insert only goes down an inch and you added a collar to the butt, you are very likely to break the forearm of the cue eventually. I know, a couple of my early cues did the exact same thing for the exact same reason. You won't feel any rattle or looseness, but it will eventually break. One of my cues lasted three hours, another lasted several years. The first broke right before my engineering class got into stress risers, so I expected the second one to break and kept it as a personal cue. The first was a gabon ebony forearm, which is pretty brittle. The second was purpleheart, which is very strong and durable.

Your mileage may vary, but I doubt it.
Click to expand...
I did not add a collar- I simply removed the old joint screw and cut down a new joint screw to the correct size to fit the new shaft. The cue butt insert was not changed- it is firmly centered in the cue butt and it is threaded - so I threaded the new joint screw into the existing butt insert with the addition of a special thread sealer - everything is matched up perfect, secure, no movement or vibration, the cue plays fantastic- I see no reason at all why anything should break on this cue with proper usage - I would not use it as a break cue in any event.
 
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