I need a lathe opinion...

DiamondDave

Yes, I rather like Snake!
Silver Member
I am hoping I can get some info on metal lathes. I understand that metal lathes are a really great option for making cues but my big concern is how difficult it will be to take a metal lathe and use it for cue making and repairs.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0492

This is one metal lathe that caught my eye and mainly because it has a built in mill. As you'll see this lathe is in the same price range as the CueSmith, Cuemonster, and the Model B Porper.

My question now is what are the differences between this lathe and the 3 I mentioned? What am I going to have to do with this lathe (or one similar to it) to have it ready for what I am going to use it for?

I really appreciate any input you guys would have on this. I'm a little ways away from making a purchase but I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row.

Thanks
Dave
 
Out of ideas

I have installed my rear chuck and adapter for the upteenth time, only to find that my best attempt is out by .010. when I put the adapter in the main chuch I am perfect. When I test the O.D. of the rear spindle im less than .001 out. when I test the rear chuck im out almost .009. When I test something in the rear jaws im a little better, but still right at .009 out. What else can I do.
 
Mill for points?

Given enough time and effort anything can be accomplished. But, I see no table for the mill, so I must assume the carriage is the table, or whatever you bolt to the carriage. Not a good setup as you need about 10 inches at least of travel to cut in points.
Someone also pointed out that a 40 inch lathe is a better way to go, they are not steering you wrong. I have two 36 inch lathes and would buy a 40 inch if I buy another large lathe. The 36 works but there is no room for error while cutting under power, easy to accidentily run the carriage into the frame. The 40 is way more practical. For what you pay for that "all in one" you could buy a separate lathe and a mill and have way more flexibility. A mill drill can cut points easily, and you can leave tooling set up with two machines rather than breaking it down for every operation. You will find that the most tedious part of our hobby, and the biggest source of inaccuracy is the setting up and breaking down of jigs and tooling. That is why I have 4 lathes and want more, and some have over a dozen! The mill will come in handy, but you will curse the built in mill I would bet.
Now you did mention the Cuemonster, isn't that the CNC router/lathe. Now that is a different story, it can do it all efficiently, but you pay for that convenience, $9K.
The dedicated cue lathes do a reasonably good job for the money, but if you want to be more accurate. and make some of your metal components then the metal lathe and mill/drill is the way to fly. But be warned, it is not nearly as easy as the cue lathes to get metyal machines set up and running smooth. You will be at it maybe a year before that happens.
 
olsonsview said:
Given enough time and effort anything can be accomplished. But, I see no table for the mill, so I must assume the carriage is the table, or whatever you bolt to the carriage. Not a good setup as you need about 10 inches at least of travel to cut in points.
Someone also pointed out that a 40 inch lathe is a better way to go, they are not steering you wrong. I have two 36 inch lathes and would buy a 40 inch if I buy another large lathe. The 36 works but there is no room for error while cutting under power, easy to accidentily run the carriage into the frame. The 40 is way more practical. For what you pay for that "all in one" you could buy a separate lathe and a mill and have way more flexibility. A mill drill can cut points easily, and you can leave tooling set up with two machines rather than breaking it down for every operation. You will find that the most tedious part of our hobby, and the biggest source of inaccuracy is the setting up and breaking down of jigs and tooling. That is why I have 4 lathes and want more, and some have over a dozen! The mill will come in handy, but you will curse the built in mill I would bet.
Now you did mention the Cuemonster, isn't that the CNC router/lathe. Now that is a different story, it can do it all efficiently, but you pay for that convenience, $9K.
The dedicated cue lathes do a reasonably good job for the money, but if you want to be more accurate. and make some of your metal components then the metal lathe and mill/drill is the way to fly. But be warned, it is not nearly as easy as the cue lathes to get metyal machines set up and running smooth. You will be at it maybe a year before that happens.

I agree. The way it is, the mill is a contraption. I scanned the manual for that lathe. Yes, the top of the carriage is the mill table. You have to move the entire carriage, and the mill is fixed in the center. That greatly reduces your effective travel.

You can not underestimate what was said above about multiple machine setups, and with that machine, you still have to break things down. You can cut points on a lathe without that contraption, so the best thing to do is just get a solid lathe and if you want to add a mill later for points and such, have two different machines.

Kelly
 
Set True Adapter

bubsbug said:
I have installed my rear chuck and adapter for the upteenth time, only to find that my best attempt is out by .010. when I put the adapter in the main chuch I am perfect. When I test the O.D. of the rear spindle im less than .001 out. when I test the rear chuck im out almost .009. When I test something in the rear jaws im a little better, but still right at .009 out. What else can I do.


Make yourself a Set True Adapter that will fit your adapter. :)
You may be able to modify the adapter you already have to be one of the two parts you will need. It will add 3/8" or so to OAL of the adapter. Just visualize or look at a Set True for the front chuck and work from that.
 
Trueing up that small chuck

Bubsburg: see the post in your running out of ideas thread, no sense using this thread.
 
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