collets
Nick, you can buy them from 1/16" to 1/8" or whatever. mine are hardinge brand. These are steel. This is what you want. i have I think around 20 differant sizes. Don't use all of them, but, I'm a tool junkie.
The adjus-a thru-chuck is fine.
Way back when, I built a single "mother" collet, {used a solid brown phonelic material}, that would take smaller ones inside of it. I placed the brown phonlic in the chuck, then bored a through hole, and made new collets to fit that ID, and bored those to fit differant sizes of cue parts. So the mother stayed in the jaws, [ it was always centered], and the smallers, one i would replace when going to a differant size cue part. It worked just fine. These smaller ones were "dead collets. They were tapered inside to fit the dia., and angle of the part.
I also did what your talkng about, machining seperate collets that were straight on the OD. just change them out when need be.This can be done with or without the mother collet.
I think delrin is best for your collets. You got plenty of time to make collets. make them when you need to, or if you, run out of re-pair work. There easy to make. Do your best to take good care of all cues and cue parts. Always use collets.
Brass, I only have one brass collet, it's used to slip up on the tennon of the back of a front, drilling and then boring and grinding threads.[ some guys use a tap for this, instead of grinding the threads perfectly].. No need to let the wood expand while working that area. Tapes or drilling, does just that, expand the wood and causes cracks in your tennon.The bronze collet keep it from expanding...
blud
iusedtoberich said:
Nick, you can buy them from 1/16" to 1/8" or whatever. mine are hardinge brand. These are steel. This is what you want. i have I think around 20 differant sizes. Don't use all of them, but, I'm a tool junkie.
The adjus-a thru-chuck is fine.
Way back when, I built a single "mother" collet, {used a solid brown phonelic material}, that would take smaller ones inside of it. I placed the brown phonlic in the chuck, then bored a through hole, and made new collets to fit that ID, and bored those to fit differant sizes of cue parts. So the mother stayed in the jaws, [ it was always centered], and the smallers, one i would replace when going to a differant size cue part. It worked just fine. These smaller ones were "dead collets. They were tapered inside to fit the dia., and angle of the part.
I also did what your talkng about, machining seperate collets that were straight on the OD. just change them out when need be.This can be done with or without the mother collet.
I think delrin is best for your collets. You got plenty of time to make collets. make them when you need to, or if you, run out of re-pair work. There easy to make. Do your best to take good care of all cues and cue parts. Always use collets.
Brass, I only have one brass collet, it's used to slip up on the tennon of the back of a front, drilling and then boring and grinding threads.[ some guys use a tap for this, instead of grinding the threads perfectly].. No need to let the wood expand while working that area. Tapes or drilling, does just that, expand the wood and causes cracks in your tennon.The bronze collet keep it from expanding...
blud
) mandrels with them also. Dumore's run smoothhhhhhhhhh. Yeah, a long extension would be expensive, i've seen them for sale, but expensive. I've made some dead centers before, easy, just offset the compound to 30 degrees, then grind dead on.