false hoods
BiG_JoN said:
Are you talking about a "sleeved" Ivory joint?
On average a phenolic joint turned down to .750 with a really thin ivory sleeve?
Thanks,
Jon
Hi Jon, long time no visit.
Ivory joints or not ivory joints?
Most say they have an ivory jointed cue. Not so true in some cases. It's a false hood to say the least. And only for looks. It's as Jon ask, is it a sleeve?
They do not hit the same as a full ivory joint.
My ivory joints are a full ivory joint, meaning that it's drilled, ground threads, and screwed on over the joint pin, and bottoms out against the wooden nose of the butt. Do not over tighten, just make it good and snug.
In doing this, you must chamfer the inside face of the ivory, so it will "BOTTOM" out, against the wooden face of the butt.Then, to make the shaft come tight, chamfer the ivory face and the face of the shaft, to insure a good tight make up.
Chipping will not be a problem if all edges are chamfered a little. Just round them off, and paint with a good clear-coat. Re-face the ivory joint,and your ready for action.
The cracking of ivory joints. I had a west coast [big name] cuemaker call me asking for help. He said that he built 6 ivory jointed cues. He said he could not figure out why all 6 of them [the ivory joints] cracked. I ask if he made them from the same plug of ivory, his reply was yes. I told him that if all cracked, he had a crack in the original plug. He just hung the phone up. Kinda funny coming from a TOP CUEMAKER", hee hee ...true story....
BTW,
Turning the tenon down, and adding a sleeve over it, is not a full ivory joint. This will not hit like ivory. A full ivory joint has a more lively hit and feel.
In my opinion, if you want an ivory joint, get the real thing. If you want it for looks, use another material that looks like ivory, and use the ivory for an inlay..
The same can be said about the "WOOD TO WOOD" joint. It's really not wood to wood. It's wood and phenolic to wood and phenolic
blud
