Jet Wood Lathe JWL-1236
- Thread starter be1163
- Start date
Where there is a will, there is a way. You may need to find a way to make it run slower, with good torque. If you get shaft collets and a steady rest with a pillow block bearing, you should be able to do tips with it. It would work out good for shaft cleaning, if you make a live center for your tail stock. Get a sewing machine motor and you will be able to do linen wraps. I don't think, doing ferrules would be possible without some heavy modification. Chris Hightower might be able to get you set up on it, call Chris and ask him.be1163 said:
Tracy
lathe and know how
be1163
I have many years of doing repairs with the same machine.
YES, the Jet Lathe, will work fine.I have personally used one for years. I have one of these I use on the road in my trailer and another in my shop used for tips,wraps, cleaning , polishing, and compounding.
Be sure to purchase a good chuck for the head stock, and take a live tail stock center and machine the point off and then machine a cup in it, so it will accomadate a tip and or the top of a shaft pin. I have even installed an air cylinder on the tail stock so it's fast and easy going from job to job. A good thing about the jet, it's varable speed, so you can dail whaever speed you want, while working. You don't have to stop the lathe to change speeds.
I differ from Tracy, [ no harm meant Tracy ].
I don't use a steady rest, for tips or cleaning shafts. It just slows me down and is always in the way.
Please don't make the mistakes that most repairman make. When wraping, compounding and or polishing a cue, place the pin in the tail stock "CUPPED" live center, and use a cone shaped "DRIVE" WITH A 1/2" SHANK, IN THE CHUCK, to fit in the butt after removing the bumper.
Most guys chuck up on the pin.WRONG.....By chucking up on the pin, you take a chance on,
1.- bending the pin,
2.- cracking the nose of the cue if the pins is not centered or bent,
3.- SCORING THE THREADS.
4.- If the cue has a little warp to it, it shackes the cue very bad and could cause it to break/crack. With the cupped live center, and if the cue has a shake to it, the pin can move a little in the CUPPED center and it won't stress the front of the cue, and you should do no damage to the cue.
5.-If the cues jumping around real bad, give it back to the guy, let someone else mess with it.[ one of the wanna-be's ]..
For shaft work, it's easy, just install the proper pin in the chuck that fits the shaft, remove the old tip, clean the face of the ferrule, glue the tip on, slide tail stock with the cuped live center up to the tips crowned top, trim the side spinning at about 1200 RPM, [ I run mine wide open],shape, clean the shaft, and collect the dough.
I was the first cue-repairman to use this same type lathe your refering to, on the road many years back. Sold over 375 of them with a training tape. They work well, for what your wanting to do.
I will be in Valley Forge this coming March, stop by if you can make it there, and I'll be glad to help you out and give you some pointers........You can see mine in action.
blud
be1163 said:
be1163
I have many years of doing repairs with the same machine.
YES, the Jet Lathe, will work fine.I have personally used one for years. I have one of these I use on the road in my trailer and another in my shop used for tips,wraps, cleaning , polishing, and compounding.
Be sure to purchase a good chuck for the head stock, and take a live tail stock center and machine the point off and then machine a cup in it, so it will accomadate a tip and or the top of a shaft pin. I have even installed an air cylinder on the tail stock so it's fast and easy going from job to job. A good thing about the jet, it's varable speed, so you can dail whaever speed you want, while working. You don't have to stop the lathe to change speeds.
I differ from Tracy, [ no harm meant Tracy ].
I don't use a steady rest, for tips or cleaning shafts. It just slows me down and is always in the way.
Please don't make the mistakes that most repairman make. When wraping, compounding and or polishing a cue, place the pin in the tail stock "CUPPED" live center, and use a cone shaped "DRIVE" WITH A 1/2" SHANK, IN THE CHUCK, to fit in the butt after removing the bumper.
Most guys chuck up on the pin.WRONG.....By chucking up on the pin, you take a chance on,
1.- bending the pin,
2.- cracking the nose of the cue if the pins is not centered or bent,
3.- SCORING THE THREADS.
4.- If the cue has a little warp to it, it shackes the cue very bad and could cause it to break/crack. With the cupped live center, and if the cue has a shake to it, the pin can move a little in the CUPPED center and it won't stress the front of the cue, and you should do no damage to the cue.
5.-If the cues jumping around real bad, give it back to the guy, let someone else mess with it.[ one of the wanna-be's ]..
For shaft work, it's easy, just install the proper pin in the chuck that fits the shaft, remove the old tip, clean the face of the ferrule, glue the tip on, slide tail stock with the cuped live center up to the tips crowned top, trim the side spinning at about 1200 RPM, [ I run mine wide open],shape, clean the shaft, and collect the dough.
I was the first cue-repairman to use this same type lathe your refering to, on the road many years back. Sold over 375 of them with a training tape. They work well, for what your wanting to do.
I will be in Valley Forge this coming March, stop by if you can make it there, and I'll be glad to help you out and give you some pointers........You can see mine in action.
blud
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Thanks very much Blud for all the great info. To be honest with you this would be the first time working on shafts and working with a lathe of any sort. I really don't understand everything you are saying but I can get the drift. Would it be possible to email or pm you if I have any questions? The main question is what else would I need to set up?
All I want to do for know is be able to replace tips and clean shafts. I'm not really interested in doing anything else at this time. We do not have anybody in our immediate area that does this and there is money to be made for quick service. I even spoke to the local billiard hall owner and he has provided me with a room in the basement of the pool hall to set up.
Thanks in advance for your reply and also all that did reply.
Greg (be1163)
All I want to do for know is be able to replace tips and clean shafts. I'm not really interested in doing anything else at this time. We do not have anybody in our immediate area that does this and there is money to be made for quick service. I even spoke to the local billiard hall owner and he has provided me with a room in the basement of the pool hall to set up.
Thanks in advance for your reply and also all that did reply.
Greg (be1163)
Absolutely, no offense taken, Blud. I am honored, to be corrected by a veteran such as yourself. I am going to experiment with some of the things from your post. Maybe I'll find better ways to do things, if so, how could that cause harm? I have one question, about the drive pin that fits where the bumper came out of, that you mentioned. Is it a straight shank or more like a bull-nose center?blud said:
Tracy
drive jig
Look forward to the road trip up north, to McDermotts. Stay intouch, my friend. We will pick you up on the way.
blud
Tracy, it's a cone on the end facing the butt plate, with a 1/2" tennon on the other end so you can install it in the chuck.RSB-Refugee said:
Look forward to the road trip up north, to McDermotts. Stay intouch, my friend. We will pick you up on the way.
blud
I already had a bullnose cone, that I had been using in the tailstock live center. I tried it the way you described, and it worked real well. Much easier and quicker, than the way I did it before. I'll give you a call this weekend, I am looking forward to the trip.blud said:
Tracy