Joint pins

[Koop]

All cuemakers,

What is your opinions on 5/16 type pins? I am trying to figure out the pro's and con's to either a 3/8 or 5/16. Any information on comparisons would be greatly appreciated. This thread was started on the Main Forum but I thought this was a more appropriate venue for it.


Thank you,
Dave

 

[Sheldon]

Either one can be installed well or installed poorly. In my opinion, the joint does not make much difference if it is done properly.

 

[Murray Tucker]

All cuemakers,

What is your opinions on 5/16 type pins? I am trying to figure out the pro's and con's to either a 3/8 or 5/16. Any information on comparisons would be greatly appreciated. This thread was started on the Main Forum but I thought this was a more appropriate venue for it.


Thank you,
Dave

I like both. I use the 5/16-14 when I am doing a stainless steel joint and the 3/8-10 when using ivory. In both cased I do a true piloted joint and use a phenolic insert in the shaft.

 

[Koop]

Thank you Murray. Adding to the question, is there a particular hit associated with each type? I prefer to feel the hit and was wondering if one or the other is more likely to stifle any feeling in the contact.

Thank you again,
Dave

 

[cueman]

I feel that the smaller 5/16" pin with flat faced joint with brass insert or phenolic insert in the shaft has a crisper hit with more cue ball action than the 3/8" pins do. The 3/8" pins create a slightly stiffer hit with a little less "feel". I think the more flat surface you have there with the smaller pin gives more energy transfer that doesn't have that slightly dead feel the 3/8 pins give. The stiffer hit is prefered by many, but the higher energy feel the smaller pin gives is my preference. That is why we can all sell cues, is that players have different tastes. I have hit balls with cues that clunked each time I hit the ball and the guy showing it to me was raving about how solid it hit. I personally didn't feel the cue played very special, and the sound it made seemed to me more like something was wrong with the cue. But the dealer for those cues say they all make that sound and that he loves it. And this guy that loves it is one great player. Different strokes for different folks.
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com

 

[Murray Tucker]

Thank you Murray. Adding to the question, is there a particular hit associated with each type? I prefer to feel the hit and was wondering if one or the other is more likely to stifle any feeling in the contact.

Thank you again,
Dave

In the case of my cues the ivory joint hits softer than the stainless steel. This is more due to the materials than the pin. I like to use the heavier 3/8 pin to complement the lighter ivory. If I used the 3/8 pin with a stainless joint I would be adding too much weight up front so instead I back it down to the 5/16. I don't use a metal conecting bolt at my "A" joint so I don't have that option available for adjusting the weight and ballance of the cue. Both joints are identical in design as far as surface area, depth of pilot, insert etc.

 

[Koop]

Murray and Chris,

Thank you both for your input. That really clears a lot up for me when trying to decide between the two options.

Kind regards,
Dave

 

[blud]

don't like

All cuemakers,

What is your opinions on 5/16 type pins? I am trying to figure out the pro's and con's to either a 3/8 or 5/16. Any information on comparisons would be greatly appreciated. This thread was started on the Main Forum but I thought this was a more appropriate venue for it.


Thank you,
Dave

Hi Dave,

I prefer the flat face over ALL other joints.

Steel joints hit very hard.

Ivory hits softer and adds more life to the flex of the joint, than steel or flat face wood to wood.

It seems over the last 10 or 12 years, more folks moved to flat face cues.

Nothing wrong with any of them, history tells us that. It's just what you like.


My cues are built, with 1- pin, "no insert", just a bored and ground threaded shaft. Less things to go wrong. Only 3 things, the pin, the joint bored threaded hole for the pin and the bored and threaded hole to receive the installed joint pin.

Take the, 5/16X14 or 18 also have there draw backs in my opinion.
With this system, you have the pin, piloted joint machining, steel sleeve,with the insert external and internal threads, bored threaded hole to receive the pin and external threads for the steel.

In my opinion, to many parts to deal with. To many things could go wrong.

I just like a good soild, clean, crisp, hit. My cues deliver that.


Please, not trying to start a war, just giving my opinion. My record of many PRO-players who played with my cues for many many years, is my proff that I nailed it. Works for me.
MY OPINION..
thanks

blud

 

[Koop]

Hey Blud,

You must have ESP because I was just going back to look at this thread. I'm having a hard time deciding which to go because both cues I have owned with stainless steel joints played great. I am having a cue made from bocote and tiger maple and for the life of me I cant figure which way to go. I am really leaning toward the SS joint because of past experience but if I could get a similar hit with something else I would rather for the look. I guess I'll keep racking the brain and thank you to everyone who has replied.

Dave