left hand drill?
- Thread starter rch
- Start date
Well, you don't state why you need to remove the pin. Why this matters is because if the pin is just bent, you may be able to straighten it and not have to go through the process of removing it. There are several methods to accomplish this.
If the pin does indeed need to be removed, the correct amount of heat on the pin will soften the epoxy enough to allow you to spin the pin out of the hole.
Depending on the brand of cue, heating the pin for removal may not be your best option. In that case, you would need to drill/bore the pin out.
What mtrl. is the pin?
Aluminum and brass are considered soft mtrls. and could be drilled/bored very easily with proper tooling. I prefer carbide tooling for this operation because carbide does not flex and will bore a straight hole without 'wandering' like HSS would.
If the pin is stainless steel, carbide should be considered mandatory.
I recently converted the pin configuration in a Predator BK2 from the traditional Uni-Loc QR to a Uni-Radial G-10. I've done several of these now so it would seem to me that this swap is becoming more popular.
Anyway, the use of heat for me on this particular cue was out of the question as the pin is set into phenolic. Boring to remove the pin was the only option I knew of. After cutting off as much exposed pin as possible from the cue I proceeded to bore what was left with a 1/4" ball radius carbide end-mill. The carbide end-mill ran dead nuts true down the center of the Uni pin and in the process, created just enough heat to soften the epoxy holding the pin. I could tell this by the epoxy vapors that were now emanating from around the body of the pin. On a hunch, I immediately grabbed an Easy-Out bit of appropriate size, inserted it into the bored hole of the pin and spun the pin out as easy as removing a bolt from a nut.
There are some very talented CMs who still reside here and some may be willing to add their input to your project. Please try to give as much info as possible for a proper & accurate diagnosis. Hope this helps.
If the pin does indeed need to be removed, the correct amount of heat on the pin will soften the epoxy enough to allow you to spin the pin out of the hole.
Depending on the brand of cue, heating the pin for removal may not be your best option. In that case, you would need to drill/bore the pin out.
What mtrl. is the pin?
Aluminum and brass are considered soft mtrls. and could be drilled/bored very easily with proper tooling. I prefer carbide tooling for this operation because carbide does not flex and will bore a straight hole without 'wandering' like HSS would.
If the pin is stainless steel, carbide should be considered mandatory.
I recently converted the pin configuration in a Predator BK2 from the traditional Uni-Loc QR to a Uni-Radial G-10. I've done several of these now so it would seem to me that this swap is becoming more popular.
Anyway, the use of heat for me on this particular cue was out of the question as the pin is set into phenolic. Boring to remove the pin was the only option I knew of. After cutting off as much exposed pin as possible from the cue I proceeded to bore what was left with a 1/4" ball radius carbide end-mill. The carbide end-mill ran dead nuts true down the center of the Uni pin and in the process, created just enough heat to soften the epoxy holding the pin. I could tell this by the epoxy vapors that were now emanating from around the body of the pin. On a hunch, I immediately grabbed an Easy-Out bit of appropriate size, inserted it into the bored hole of the pin and spun the pin out as easy as removing a bolt from a nut.
There are some very talented CMs who still reside here and some may be willing to add their input to your project. Please try to give as much info as possible for a proper & accurate diagnosis. Hope this helps.
