Logo options?

PracticeChampion

Well-known member
What's my cheapest route to go to logo a carbon shaft? Tried the water slides and it just doesn't look good to me and not ready to take on the cost of a CNC yet. Laser maybe or a smaller cheap CNC of some kind?
 
Here's a guy on FB that will engrave your CF shaft for you. I have not had it done myself, but his videos look pretty good

Mike DeluciaCue Building, Repair, and Maintenance

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Was just testing on this Predator BK2 shaft with my fiber laser, got setting dialed in, been in the laser industry since 2012. Any body needs something engraved let me know, we have 2 fiber laser with rotary attachments and 3 CO2 laser for wood shafts. Theirs not much we can't do. Any questions just ask. — with Paul Harrison Custom Cues.
 
metallic sharpie
I remember making stencils with masking tape. It was easy with contact paper, even easier with modern blue masking tape. Hell, get a cricut on sale at hobby lobby and cut a stencil at the smallest font. Hit that with the metallic sharpie and it's gonna look good. Last 4" with clear and it will never come off.
 
Depending on the width of your logo, you could always use a cheap 3018 CNC without a 4th axis.

If that will do it that's definitely the route I'll take. Do you or Have you used one?
 
If that will do it that's definitely the route I'll take. Do you or Have you used one?

I have one and love it. I have not used it for logos on cues, but Ive used it for logos on cutting boards with no issues. I also use it for simple inlays and lots of other woodworking stuff. You will need to build your own fixtures to hold a cue shaft. And find out what bits and feeds and speeds work on CF.

Its z axis height is limited which is my only complaint. It's also not going to cut metal well or do anything fast. But there is a big community online with all sorts of mods. It was a good and cheap way for me to learn about CNC and the software tool path and tooling that goes along with it.
 
I have one and love it. I have not used it for logos on cues, but Ive used it for logos on cutting boards with no issues. I also use it for simple inlays and lots of other woodworking stuff. You will need to build your own fixtures to hold a cue shaft. And find out what bits and feeds and speeds work on CF.

Its z axis height is limited which is my only complaint. It's also not going to cut metal well or do anything fast. But there is a big community online with all sorts of mods. It was a good and cheap way for me to learn about CNC and the software tool path and tooling that goes along with it.
I know nothing about this stuff so hope I don't sound to dumb but do you use the program that comes with it? Will a laptop run it?
 
I know nothing about this stuff so hope I don't sound to dumb but do you use the program that comes with it? Will a laptop run it?

There are two type of programs, both of which you can run with any laptop.

(1) Design programs where you draw what you want to make. Easel (https://easel.inventables.com/) is free and will work well for basic text, logos, and inlays. For people who make a career out of design, there are many better and more powerful programs like Fusion360. For fancy mills there are cuespecific programs you can buy. But I would start with Easel. These design programs will output a .gcode file for you to run on your CNC but for the most part won't control the CNC.

(2) Controller programs that physically run the CNC. You can directly plug your laptop into the 3018 and use Candle (which comes with the 3018) to execute the .gcode files for your design. I use cncjs on a Raspberry Pi so I can access my CNC through Wi-Fi (https://cnc.js.org/docs/rpi-setup-guide/) and don't have to leave my laptop in the shop.

My failure rate on woodworking (including CNC) is much higher than my electrical/computer/software projects or 3D printing. So be prepared for failure and frustration, but I think that's the first lesson any cuemaker learns anyway.

Some videos to watch before you buy, this guy's channel is great:


 
There are two type of programs, both of which you can run with any laptop.

(1) Design programs where you draw what you want to make. Easel (https://easel.inventables.com/) is free and will work well for basic text, logos, and inlays. For people who make a career out of design, there are many better and more powerful programs like Fusion360. For fancy mills there are cuespecific programs you can buy. But I would start with Easel. These design programs will output a .gcode file for you to run on your CNC but for the most part won't control the CNC.

(2) Controller programs that physically run the CNC. You can directly plug your laptop into the 3018 and use Candle (which comes with the 3018) to execute the .gcode files for your design. I use cncjs on a Raspberry Pi so I can access my CNC through Wi-Fi (https://cnc.js.org/docs/rpi-setup-guide/) and don't have to leave my laptop in the shop.

My failure rate on woodworking (including CNC) is much higher than my electrical/computer/software projects or 3D printing. So be prepared for failure and frustration, but I think that's the first lesson any cuemaker learns anyway.

Some videos to watch before you buy, this guy's channel is great:


Awesome thank you!!! I'll place my order tomorrow
 
There are two type of programs, both of which you can run with any laptop.

(1) Design programs where you draw what you want to make. Easel (https://easel.inventables.com/) is free and will work well for basic text, logos, and inlays. For people who make a career out of design, there are many better and more powerful programs like Fusion360. For fancy mills there are cuespecific programs you can buy. But I would start with Easel. These design programs will output a .gcode file for you to run on your CNC but for the most part won't control the CNC.

(2) Controller programs that physically run the CNC. You can directly plug your laptop into the 3018 and use Candle (which comes with the 3018) to execute the .gcode files for your design. I use cncjs on a Raspberry Pi so I can access my CNC through Wi-Fi (https://cnc.js.org/docs/rpi-setup-guide/) and don't have to leave my laptop in the shop.

My failure rate on woodworking (including CNC) is much higher than my electrical/computer/software projects or 3D printing. So be prepared for failure and frustration, but I think that's the first lesson any cuemaker learns anyway.

Some videos to watch before you buy, this guy's channel is great:


The CNC is $200 but then there's these other bundles, should I buy them all or is it cheaper to buy especially the bits elsewhere. Here's the list of extras.
 

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The CNC is $200 but then there's these other bundles, should I buy them all or is it cheaper to buy especially the bits elsewhere. Here's the list of extras.

I wouldn't (you can always buy them later) except for the $14.99 variety bit set. You'll wind up ordering a lot of other bits from amazon and other places eventually too. You will break a dozen bits in the first month as they run into things or plunge through your workpiece and fixtures when you aren't paying attention.

A lot of the skill in using a cheap CNC is finding the right combination of detail and roughing bits for your designs. If you are just doing a carved logo (without an inlay inside of it), you will be able to use a simple v-bit.

 
I wouldn't (you can always buy them later) except for the $14.99 variety bit set. You'll wind up ordering a lot of other bits from amazon and other places eventually too. You will break a dozen bits in the first month as they run into things or plunge through your workpiece and fixtures when you aren't paying attention.

A lot of the skill in using a cheap CNC is finding the right combination of detail and roughing bits for your designs. If you are just doing a carved logo (without an inlay inside of it), you will be able to use a simple v-bit.

Got the 3018 and 2 days in trying to understand everything, which basically means I know nothing but making progress, kinda 🤔 😂

I'm using easel and so far it seems I can't cut letters small enough. You ever tried putting 8 letters in about 3/4"x3/4" area?
 
Got the 3018 and 2 days in trying to understand everything, which basically means I know nothing but making progress, kinda 🤔 😂

I'm using easel and so far it seems I can't cut letters small enough. You ever tried putting 8 letters in about 3/4"x3/4" area?

What bit size and type did you select in easel? And what depth of cut and cut type? I think a 20 or 30 degree v but with a shallow cut could hit that level of detail.
 
Got the 3018 and 2 days in trying to understand everything, which basically means I know nothing but making progress, kinda 🤔 😂

I'm using easel and so far it seems I can't cut letters small enough. You ever tried putting 8 letters in about 3/4"x3/4" area?

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20 degree vbit (I don't remember it the 3018 comes with 20 or 30 degree v-bit, both look like they will work)

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Note: I don't know what depth of cut will look best on carbon fiber, probably not the default depth I used above. I would start really shallow since you are engraving a logo and not making structural / inlay cuts.
 
What bit size and type did you select in easel? And what depth of cut and cut type? I think a 20 or 30 degree v but with a shallow cut could hit that level of detail.
I'm just trying on wood currently so put in a 1/16" inch bit. The smallest I can go with that and be visible on the screen in easel is about 1 1/4". Any specs smaller and on screen it's no longer visible and when I push carve it says there's nothing to carve. If that makes sense
 
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