Lowest Deflection Wood Shafts

C

cueball2010

New member
I can't find a lot of information on the new Predator Centro or the Vantage shaft. But I did find a mention of the Vantage being lower deflection than the 314-3. I think the Z-3 is at the top for least deflection but I don't think I want a tip smaller then 12.4mm. I am also wondering if the Centro taper is the same 8%-degree low rise as the Revo 12.4mm because I didn't like that taper. I would like to stay as close to 13mm as I can because I think the taper stays more level. I have the Revo 12.9 currently and I am fine with that 5-deg taper. I am looking for the next best LD wood shaft.

This is my guess for lowest to highest LD the list goes:
  1. Predator Centro
  2. Predator Vantage-3
  3. Predator 314-3
 
I find it weird that the Vantage has less deflection than the 314.

I have 4 CF shafts including the Revo 12.9 and a bunch of 314-2 shafts and I can say from experience that they all play very similar in terms of deflection.
I got to try the Revo 12.4 yesterday and to be honest, I think that the taper is great, better than the pro taper on my other 12.5 CF shafts, it feels stiffer and thicker.

I don’t know if the Centro really has lower cue ball deflection but if I was in the market for a new wood shaft, I would probably get this one just to try and see how it plays compared to the 314-2.
KW should also be an option, it is wood…

Since all low deflection shafts, still deflect, I find that in most shots, you still need to compensate for deflection and the only difference will be in close soft to medium hits.
If you use the Jeremy Jones technique to aim with side spin, you basically shoot the same with all shafts and the amount of deflection reduction does not really matter that much.

This is how I aim and this technique works great

 
skor said:
This is how I aim and this technique works great

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That's "front hand english" - it only works "as is" (without subconscious aim adjustment) for very low deflection shafts with their "pivot point" close to the grip hand. Of course, the closer the shaft's pivot point is to the grip hand, the smaller the subconscious aim adjustment needs to be.

But to be clear, that's how you adjust for CB deflection, not "how you aim". "How you aim" usually means how you determine the centerball aim line.

pj
chgo
 
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You may want to take a look at the Samsara True Shaft as I think you will find the deflection is low. Do a search on AZ billiards and you should find a few threads with info.

Good Luck!!!
 
skor said:
Since all low deflection shafts, still deflect, I find that in most shots, you still need to compensate for deflection and the only difference will be in close soft to medium hits.
Click to expand...

Pretty much this. Every shaft deflects at least some; it's just a matter of how much and at what distance. Find one you like the feel of, put a good tip on it, and then just play & get used to it. There ain't no magic wands, I'm afraid.
 
Deflection:: All shafts have deflection, those with more end-mass (6-inches near the tip) deflect more.

Tip size:: The smaller diameter the tip, the more deliberate the stroke needs to be. That is, getting used to a 12.5mm or even 12mm will help your game even if you go back to a larger tip later.

Taper: Every taper has benefits and drawbacks. The long run tapers (9-12 inches near tip size then tapering up to the joint size) are easier with a closed bridge.

But in all 3 categories--it is personal preference.
 
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome the advertising bullsh**.

Old School Maple is good stuff, the Great Willie Mosconi set records with Old School EQUIPTMENT, and HIS SKILL.
 
MitchAlsup said:
The smaller diameter the tip, the more deliberate the stroke needs to be.
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skor said:
...smaller tip is more accurate, it's more pin point.
...it take smaller movement to create a bigger miss.
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Almost every other player agrees with you guys, but I don't think smaller tips are less forgiving. I do think they can be a little more accurate, but only because there's a little less tip blocking your view of the tip/ball contact point.

Cord said:
The middle is still the middle, regardless of diameter.
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Yep, and the rest of the tip is still the rest of the tip. Here's a pic of a 13mm tip with a 10mm tip "superimposed" on it (the two vertical lines). With the same curvature (as shown) they're identical out to their outer edge, with no difference in precision.

pj
chgo

Screenshot 2025-06-10 185738.png
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
Almost every other player agrees with you, but I don't think smaller tips are less accurate - in fact, I think they can be more accurate because there's less tip blocking your view of the tip/ball contact point.

I'm interested to hear your reasoning.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
smaller tip is more accurate, it's more pin point.
It's the player thst is less accurate with it, as it take smaller movement to create a bigger miss.
 
I know eight players that have switched from CF shafts to Kielwood shafts this year.
Just like carbon fiber might not be for everyone, some may feel the same about KW.

I don’t wear a glove, never have or ever will. The feel of the shaft movement across & thru my
fingers in a closed and open bridge imparts a tactile feeling about my shaft’s stroke speed.

That’s important feedback for me, especially when using English on 1/2 table cue shots and
long rail bank shots. I think KW is worth considering. I got my 1st KW shaft last October from
Superior Cues (Cory Barnhart brand). Since he only makes radial joints, I researched, checked
around & Jacoby Cues said they’d tackle what I want made so 2 KW shafts will arrive in July.
 
Bavafongoul said:
I know eight players that have switched from CF shafts to Kielwood shafts this year.
Just like carbon fiber might not be for everyone, some may feel the same about KW.

I don’t wear a glove, never have or ever will. The feel of the shaft movement across & thru my
fingers in a closed and open bridge imparts a tactile feeling about my shaft’s stroke speed.

That’s important feedback for me, especially when using English on 1/2 table cue shots and
long rail bank shots. I think KW is worth considering. I got my 1st KW shaft last October from
Superior Cues (Cory Barnhart brand). Since he only makes radial joints, I researched, checked
around & Jacoby Cues said they’d tackle what I want made so 2 KW shafts will arrive in July.
Click to expand...
Kielwood does sound very interesting. Does it still feel like normal maple wood on open and closed bridges - on your skin?
 
I've actually never played with a shaft, carbon, kielwood, or regular wood that has been lower deflection than the Z3 and the OB Pro+ shafts that I usually play with. Most recently I tried a Mezz Ignite 12.2 and it deflected a tad more.

The vantage should definitely deflect more than the 314 unless you turn it down.
 
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Cord said:
The middle is still the middle, regardless of diameter.
Click to expand...
True

But moving the center of the tip 1mm off center with a larger tip diameter still grabs the middle of the cue ball, while a smaller tip will be more off center and introduce more unwanted spin.

So a larger tip diameter is more forgiving, and that is why it is considered more accurate.
You have to remember that the tip width is more than a dot and all of it touches the cue ball.

Before you send me to practise my stroke, unwanted spin happens to everyone, even the best pros, especially with a hard hit.
 
Bavafongoul said:
I don’t wear a glove, never have or ever will. The feel of the shaft movement across & thru my
fingers in a closed and open bridge imparts a tactile feeling about my shaft’s stroke speed.
Click to expand...
this is something that you can get used to.
I also preferred not to use glove but I get used to it and I rather use it and enjoy the benefits of CF. I do shoot with wooden shaft as well, i have them so why not... back in the day, I've tried to play with a glove, the best one was Sir Joseph, I didn't like it, but today, there are much better gloves.
That feel you are talking about is important to all players, pros and amateurs, if they can feel it with a glove, so could you.
It's OK to still prefer wood or go with KW
 
skor said:
… moving the center of the tip 1mm off center with a larger tip diameter still grabs the middle of the cue ball, while a smaller tip will be more off center and introduce more unwanted spin.
Click to expand...
How will a smaller tip be more off center if moved the same amount? (See post #11.)

skor said:
You have to remember that the tip width is more than a dot and all of it touches the cue ball.
Click to expand...
Only a small part of it touches the ball at a time.

pj
chgo
 
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