I was just wondering, I would like to try my hand at mitered veneers. I think an easy way for me being I have little equipment is if I get a router table with a 45 degree bit on it I could run a glued up strip a veneers through and then glue them together. Is it that simple or am I missing something. I am sure I would have to fine tune this or that and probably make some sort of jig but just curious if it is that simple. If anyone has pics of some "low budget" methods I would love to see them. Thanks in advance.
Mitered veneers.
- Thread starter seahorse1877
- Start date
aint that the truth,....most of this stuff is real easy to do, but real hard to do perfect.
Holding the veneers perfectly flat while doing this and running them perfectly straight is very hard to do without a fixture. I sell a fixture for $75 that will hold them flat and has an edge to run your router bit bearing up against. It really works good. It is easiest to use with router mounted vertical with bit pointing down.
It could probably work if you had the veneers sandwiched between two pieces of something perfectly flat to support them as they meet the cutter. It would also help if the supports were a few inches longer on the front, so it is already touching the fence on the far side of the cutter. This way it is already cutting smooth when the veneers meet the cutter. Never tried this, so I'm just thinking of possible issues.
Might work fine, if your fixture is precise enough. There are a few details to be pay attention to:
1) As noted above, veneers must be held perfectly flat, and router bit must run dead true over the length of the cut;
2) Not all router bits are created equal - buy a very high quality one, custom honed to exactly 90* and keep it razor sharp;
3) Maintain lefts and rights matched together - mixing them up may result in inconsistent angles
TW
1) As noted above, veneers must be held perfectly flat, and router bit must run dead true over the length of the cut;
2) Not all router bits are created equal - buy a very high quality one, custom honed to exactly 90* and keep it razor sharp;
3) Maintain lefts and rights matched together - mixing them up may result in inconsistent angles
TW
I do my veneer stacks very similar to this. I built a small vacuum table that has a .125 thick guide attached to each side that are mounted at an angle to each other. This is permanently mounted on my CNC table. I cut my veneer stacks at an angle 1.5" wide on one end and a .5" on the other and 11" long. this way I get a complete 90 deg veneer stack for every inch of veneer. 4 inch wide is good for 4 points, 6 inch wide = 6 points. I put these veneer wedges on the vacuum table which holds them down tightly and aligned for a straight cut with my router on the CNC. I position my V cutter to cut to within .005 of the table. I make about 4 passes to get to the .005 depth. This leaves a .005 hinge in the bottom veneer. I then put a piece of tape on the bottom veneer, apply some glue to this 90 degree hinge, fold and hold in place with tape until dry. I use a shop vac for a vacuum source.
This will make perfect 90 degree veneer stacks with no glue line with each side approxmately .750 and the other end .250. Leaving a hinge like this keeps the two halves held in place until the glue dries. Using this hinge changes the geometry slightly when folded, so, a 90 deg V cutter won't work. You must have your 90 deg. V cutter reground to 88 deg.
Dick
Thank you for your responses.