Billiard Side Rail - 7 foot Meyer's table from the late 70's
U__________________U_____________________U U= pocket
|
|_O________________O___________________O_| O= Bolt Plate
<_________________36"___________________>|
This table has 6 sections for the rails each
about 36" long. One of the sections has developed
a warp from end to end that bows about 3/8 to
1/2 inch at the middle pocket.
It was machined from solid walnut wood which is very
hard. It has 3 bolts (represented by the 'O's) which
attach it to the table. I am afraid if we tighten
to pull it down, we will pull out the anchor plate.
I am thinking of cutting kerf cuts across the rail about
3/4 to 1 inch apart to reduce the amount of wood that would
have to bend. The saw cuts would not show after the cloth is
applied and the side apron slats are attached.
Since the rail is bolted to the slate it does not need any
lateral strength therefore I would not be at risk of it breaking
except when ever it is handled while removed from the table.
So - whadda-ya-think ???? Thanks
U__________________U_____________________U U= pocket
|
|_O________________O___________________O_| O= Bolt Plate
<_________________36"___________________>|
This table has 6 sections for the rails each
about 36" long. One of the sections has developed
a warp from end to end that bows about 3/8 to
1/2 inch at the middle pocket.
It was machined from solid walnut wood which is very
hard. It has 3 bolts (represented by the 'O's) which
attach it to the table. I am afraid if we tighten
to pull it down, we will pull out the anchor plate.
I am thinking of cutting kerf cuts across the rail about
3/4 to 1 inch apart to reduce the amount of wood that would
have to bend. The saw cuts would not show after the cloth is
applied and the side apron slats are attached.
Since the rail is bolted to the slate it does not need any
lateral strength therefore I would not be at risk of it breaking
except when ever it is handled while removed from the table.
So - whadda-ya-think ???? Thanks