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[DeeRay86]

I know this is a stupid question for you veterans but im dipping my toes in a build after many years of repairs. This forearm needs to be cored and plugged correct? Before I buy I would like to be as ready as I can be. Maple core (female) and ready for a handle (male, plus pin)? Same for buttsleeve! Take it easy on me fellas, just trying learn and build myself something. Thanks.

 

[Michael Webb]

I know this is a stupid question for you veterans but im dipping my toes in a build after many years of repairs. This forearm needs to be cored and plugged correct? Before I buy I would like to be as ready as I can be. Maple core (female) and ready for a handle (male, plus pin)? Same for buttsleeve! Take it easy on me fellas, just trying learn and build myself something. Thanks.

Usually the Coring is done before the points are cut in.
I'm not saying it can't be done but it's certainly more difficult.
If your using a Supplier's blanks, you might want to ask them!
Good luck!

 

[DeeRay86]

Usually the Coring is done before the points are cut in.
I'm not saying it can't be done but it's certainly more difficult.
If your using a Supplier's blanks, you might want to ask them!
Good luck!

Thank you

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Usually the Coring is done before the points are cut in.
I'm not saying it can't be done but it's certainly more difficult.
If your using a Supplier's blanks, you might want to ask them!
Good luck!

Interesting. I always core after points. There are problems associated with doing it my way. I guess that's the double-edged sword of paving one's own path.

 

[jokers_wild96]

Usually Prather cores their stuff. Doesn't the listing specify that.

 

[Kim Bye]

Coring does generate heat, that would be a concern to me.
If you need to core it to lighten the forearm, I would get the longest boring bar I could find and bore out as deep as I could from each side, as boring generates less heat. I would leave the hole 20-30 thou undersized, so that everything lined up nicely when I cored the rest of the piece.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Even blasting air full bore you'll probably create more heat with more chance of deteriorating the glue bond at the points using a gun drill IMO.
Coring before the points are installed will allow the points, the core and the host wood to have a stronger bond.
Maybe 6 to 1 and a half dozen to another.
I like cutting the point grooves into the core.
You're also working the entire forearm piece off the core centers which I prefer to do.

 

[DeeRay86]

Usually Prather cores their stuff. Doesn't the listing specify that.

I'll go back and look but I did not see that it says any of them are cored. There's a few alternative pics that show they definitely are not.

 

[jokers_wild96]

From the picture of #486 the forearm wood is a bunch of spliced pieces. That one should be stable for you.

 

[DeeRay86]

From the picture of #486 the forearm wood is a bunch of spliced pieces. That one should be stable for you.

For coring? I just need a lil direction on the best route to take to build my first one. I can core (gun drill) and or bore with a 6 inch bar.

 

[Sheldon]

No

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Even blasting air full bore you'll probably create more heat with more chance of deteriorating the glue bond at the points using a gun drill IMO.
Coring before the points are installed will allow the points, the core and the host wood to have a stronger bond.
Maybe 6 to 1 and a half dozen to another.
I like cutting the point grooves into the core.
You're also working the entire forearm piece off the core centers which I prefer to do.

Usually the Coring is done before the points are cut in.
I'm not saying it can't be done but it's certainly more difficult.
If your using a Supplier's blanks, you might want to ask them!
Good luck!

Great info as usual, gents. Would you be so kind as to clarify one thing for me. If you are coring before points, does this mean the core is only in the forearm? I core after so I can have a single core from joint to bumper. My handles and forearms are threaded onto the core.

Personally, I've never found the heat to be a problem with the points, but I only core 0.625 for most of the forearm.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Great info as usual, gents. Would you be so kind as to clarify one thing for me. If you are coring before points, does this mean the core is only in the forearm? I core after so I can have a single core from joint to bumper. My handles and forearms are threaded onto the core.

Personally, I've never found the heat to be a problem with the points, but I only core 0.625 for most of the forearm.

Many different theories on ways to assemble cues. If your belief lays in one of many and it's working for you don't change a thing.
In the beginning I was shown a certain way to assemble cues and felt there were some better ways to accomplish those ideas.
I tried a few different ways in my very early stages and settled in on the method I use today.
Yes, I core the entire cue. But not on a one piece core and I have my reasons on why I don't go about it that way.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Many different theories on ways to assemble cues. If your belief lays in one of many and it's working for you don't change a thing.
In the beginning I was shown a certain way to assemble cues and felt there were some better ways to accomplish those ideas.
I tried a few different ways in my very early stages and settled in on the method I use today.
Yes, I core the entire cue. But not on a one piece core and I have my reasons on why I don't go about it that way.

Thanks-you, I was just verifying that I was reading that correctly.

I've done several different construction methods throughout my journey so far. Like you, I have reasons for my method. As with most things, I believe there is compromise inherent to any design.

Have a great weekend!