Need help with McDermott I-shaft

JTs cuerepair

JTs cuerepair

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It's been many years since I have had a tip pop off but it has now happened. I have a customer that has a McDermott I-Shaft. I just went to there site to learn about these shafts as this is the first one to come my way. The ferrule is very short and has a build in tennon that goes into the wood of the shaft. I'm not sure what the material is. Most of the time I use Loctite gel super glue but this time I used Loctite gel super glue ultra control. I thought this stuff was a little better because of the rubberized part of it. Not an old tube, opened it about three weeks ago and always keep it in the fridge, Any one have problems like this with these ferrules or any helpful hints, Thanks Guys.
 
The i2 was the first pro grade shaft I re-tipped
The ferulle as you can tell is very hard so you have to be extra careful to make sure it's machined flat. I have used all types of glue with that ferrule and it worked fine. My go to choice is loctite professional liquid. Tip prep , sanding , proper adhesion are all important steps. Any one of these is not perfect and the tip can pop. Now you never know how the customer took care of it also.
Try loctite professional liquid with no score on the ferrule side and 100 sand on the tip part.
 
When I had that trouble the way I got one to stay on was to put glue on tip and furrule let it dry and resand both and glue it on a gain. Hope this helps
 
Loctite 411

Recently I've done some testing of glues to see which would hold the tip on the best. For the tests I used Gorilla Super Glue, Loctite 454, Loctite Professional Liquid (blue bottle), West Systems G5 epoxy, and Loctite 411. I glued 3 tips for each glue onto some scrap Cuetec shafts, for a total of 15 tips. I used LePro tips, all sanded & primed with thin CA. I then cut score marks in both the ferrules & the tips and installed them. I used accelerator on all of the super glues.

The test was to slam the installed tip onto a concrete sidewalk as hard as possible. For this part I had several "volunteers", as I did not want to do it myself for fear that I would be subconsciously biased when slamming the tip.

The ONLY glue that held 100% was the Loctite 411. Not only could the tip not be popped off, on one of the shafts, the ferrule actually broke off of the shaft. The glue bond on the tip was not affected.

Second place went to the Loctite Professional Liquid. The other 3 were distant 3rd - 5th place. I still use the other glues for ferrules and other jobs, but for tips, Loctite 411 could not be beat in this abusive test.
 
glue

I've never used loctite 411 but I use Loctite proff on all my tips ---and I use the loctite ultra gel on break and jump tips for the extra cushioning effect.....so far so good.



Joe
 
The best advice I can give, and it was given to me by some very awesome people here 5-6 years ago, is to sand the glue side of the tip on a FLAT surface, then take a cheap, thin super glue, doesn't matter the brand, and put it on the glue side of the tip, spread it and let it harden. Then re-sand lightly to flatten the surface, then glue the tip on as usual sing the glue of your choice. A lot of times, if you don't do this, the glue gets sucked into the leather of the tip and leaves almost nothing in the joint area to make a good bond. Then the player hits a shot hard and POP, off it goes. I haven't lost a tip since doing this. Some tips will suck it in as fast as you apply it. For those, I put on a glob, let it dry, then apply a small amount more then sand. If you keep applying it as it gets sucked in, 2 things happen, you use a lot of glue, and the tip now will be harder than it was designed to be. Hope this helps
Dave
 
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