Thanks, everyone, for checking out the video, and for your kind words (and greenies!). I'm glad you liked it! I truly enjoyed sharing this with you.
I'm just going to reply to all the posts in this one mega-response.
Current list of requests for AUSM Video 2
(including requests that didn't make it into AUSM Video 1):
Some real-time shots for reference
Breaks: 9 on the spot (head and wing balls)
Breaks: 10-ball (2nd ball)
Breaks: 8-ball (8 kicked in the side)
Full-table squirt/swerve (1:00 and 11:00)
Balls frozen along rail (outside English)
30* cut (with various English)
Deflection comparisons
Joe Tucker racking secrets (<--Awesome DVD)
Questions about AUSM1:
Shafts: I used a plain house cue for the squirt shots. I did record some squirt shots with my Predator Z2, but discovered later that I had "cheated" by compensating for the (small amount of) deflection. I'll reshoot these shots.
My break cue is a generic solid maple, non-LD shaft with a phenolic ferrule/tip combo.
All other shots were shot with the Z2.
I have Joe Tucker's Racking Secrets DVD and pretty much agree with everything he teaches. I don't make the wing every time, but if I actually read the rack (and if the rack is "on"), I can make it >60% of the time. Maybe more.
I use a Casio EX-FH25. It's discontinued but there are several available for sale. They're much more expensive now ($1400) than when I bought mine ($400), but they're the best sub-$25,000 slow motion camera out there, IMO. Also a great all-around camera, even without the slow motion. I used 4 different tripods, 3 tripod heads, and various other mounting equipment.
High speed cameras needs a LOT of light. I use 2600 Watts of Halogen lights to keep the quality up. Just about every clip in the video is shot with the lamps shining right in my face. But it's worth it!
I hope PJ gets to see the video(s). I look forward to working with him to figure out more "pool stuff." I originally bought the camera specifically for shooting pool. I just HAD to know what was happening on the table., especially after reading some of his physics descriptions.
My interpretations about what's happening in the shots:
Skid (Chapter 5):
I believe that dirty and/or slow cloth makes skid more likely. Would you agree that it's easier to jump on a slower table? I think the increased friction causes the base of the CB to resist sliding or rotating, and therefore makes it more likely to build up energy and release it more suddenly, causing the jump. Same for skid. However, the energy that builds up for skid comes from the gearing and also because the part of the CB that contacts the OB is actually moving toward the table surface, shoving the OB into the cloth. That's why I don't think we'll see near as much skid when using side or draw. I'm looking forward to exploring this further in the next video.
Oddly, it seems to me that if the surface of the CB is moving very fast relative to the OB, skid can actually be reduced. This is similar to the "bell curve" model of CIT. Very soft or very hard shots tend to produce less CIT (I think). In other words, a softer shot gives the two balls more "time" to hook up, but it seems like lots of inside spin (or a harder hit) will cause the two surfaces to just slide right off each other. A VERY soft shot probably doesn't have enough energy to cause the ball to hop. I'm not sure about that, but it sure seems that way.
I will definitely use the recommendations and provide better visual references when shooting the skid shots.
Shaft vibrations / LD / "Whippiness":
I totally agree. If I hit the CB with side spin, the CB and the shaft will split the offset. Squirt and deflection added together will equal the amount of off-center energy introduced into the shot. If the shaft "gives" more, the CB will not have to squirt as much.
I also LOVE the good vibrations when I hit a nice firm spin shot with the Z2. It resonates for several seconds after the shot. If I'm not shooting well, I will sometimes hold the shaft up to my ear and thump it so I can HEAR that vibration, which gives me a target. My goal for getting back in stroke is then to generate that sound. It reminds me of the loose grip, accelerating cue, and light touch needed in order to strike the ball well.
Thanks again. I look forward to hearing your responses and future requests!
-Blake
I'm just going to reply to all the posts in this one mega-response.
Current list of requests for AUSM Video 2
(including requests that didn't make it into AUSM Video 1):
Some real-time shots for reference
Breaks: 9 on the spot (head and wing balls)
Breaks: 10-ball (2nd ball)
Breaks: 8-ball (8 kicked in the side)
Full-table squirt/swerve (1:00 and 11:00)
Balls frozen along rail (outside English)
30* cut (with various English)
Deflection comparisons
Joe Tucker racking secrets (<--Awesome DVD)
Questions about AUSM1:
Shafts: I used a plain house cue for the squirt shots. I did record some squirt shots with my Predator Z2, but discovered later that I had "cheated" by compensating for the (small amount of) deflection. I'll reshoot these shots.
My break cue is a generic solid maple, non-LD shaft with a phenolic ferrule/tip combo.
All other shots were shot with the Z2.
I have Joe Tucker's Racking Secrets DVD and pretty much agree with everything he teaches. I don't make the wing every time, but if I actually read the rack (and if the rack is "on"), I can make it >60% of the time. Maybe more.
I use a Casio EX-FH25. It's discontinued but there are several available for sale. They're much more expensive now ($1400) than when I bought mine ($400), but they're the best sub-$25,000 slow motion camera out there, IMO. Also a great all-around camera, even without the slow motion. I used 4 different tripods, 3 tripod heads, and various other mounting equipment.
High speed cameras needs a LOT of light. I use 2600 Watts of Halogen lights to keep the quality up. Just about every clip in the video is shot with the lamps shining right in my face. But it's worth it!
I hope PJ gets to see the video(s). I look forward to working with him to figure out more "pool stuff." I originally bought the camera specifically for shooting pool. I just HAD to know what was happening on the table., especially after reading some of his physics descriptions.
My interpretations about what's happening in the shots:
Skid (Chapter 5):
I believe that dirty and/or slow cloth makes skid more likely. Would you agree that it's easier to jump on a slower table? I think the increased friction causes the base of the CB to resist sliding or rotating, and therefore makes it more likely to build up energy and release it more suddenly, causing the jump. Same for skid. However, the energy that builds up for skid comes from the gearing and also because the part of the CB that contacts the OB is actually moving toward the table surface, shoving the OB into the cloth. That's why I don't think we'll see near as much skid when using side or draw. I'm looking forward to exploring this further in the next video.
Oddly, it seems to me that if the surface of the CB is moving very fast relative to the OB, skid can actually be reduced. This is similar to the "bell curve" model of CIT. Very soft or very hard shots tend to produce less CIT (I think). In other words, a softer shot gives the two balls more "time" to hook up, but it seems like lots of inside spin (or a harder hit) will cause the two surfaces to just slide right off each other. A VERY soft shot probably doesn't have enough energy to cause the ball to hop. I'm not sure about that, but it sure seems that way.
I will definitely use the recommendations and provide better visual references when shooting the skid shots.
Shaft vibrations / LD / "Whippiness":
I totally agree. If I hit the CB with side spin, the CB and the shaft will split the offset. Squirt and deflection added together will equal the amount of off-center energy introduced into the shot. If the shaft "gives" more, the CB will not have to squirt as much.
I also LOVE the good vibrations when I hit a nice firm spin shot with the Z2. It resonates for several seconds after the shot. If I'm not shooting well, I will sometimes hold the shaft up to my ear and thump it so I can HEAR that vibration, which gives me a target. My goal for getting back in stroke is then to generate that sound. It reminds me of the loose grip, accelerating cue, and light touch needed in order to strike the ball well.
Thanks again. I look forward to hearing your responses and future requests!
-Blake