No Points vs. Spliced Points
- Thread starter buddha162
- Start date
In building cues, you either take out the back-bone of the forarm, or and add veneers and an inter inlay of a some what solid piece of wood. Or you then cut about .080 deep per pocket and add another piece of wood that is flat and is strong, and of some kind of a pretty stable woods. The floating points, is a very good stable cue as is the one with "VEE" points and veneers. If you built a cue with veneer points and then built one "VEE" pointed cue wothout the veneers, which is the strongest?? This alll depends on what woods your useing and where are they in the cue?
Both are great cues, both hit well, and play solid, however there will be a good deal of the way they hit. They will not hit the same or even close. Steel joints will also change the way it will hit and play. All of these are good cues. It's a matter of "CHOICE".
Both are great cues, both hit well, and play solid, however there will be a good deal of the way they hit. They will not hit the same or even close. Steel joints will also change the way it will hit and play. All of these are good cues. It's a matter of "CHOICE".
In building cues, you either take out the back-bone of the forarm, or and add veneers and an inter inlay of a some what solid piece of wood. Or you then cut about .080 deep per pocket and add another piece of wood that is flat and is strong, and of some kind of a pretty stable woods. The floating points, is a very good stable cue as is the one with "VEE" points and veneers. If you built a cue with veneer points and then built one "VEE" pointed cue wothout the veneers, which is the strongest?? This alll depends on what woods your useing and where are they in the cue?
Both are great cues, both hit well, and play solid, however there will be a good deal of the way they hit. They will not hit the same or even close. Steel joints will also change the way it will hit and play. All of these are good cues. It's a matter of "CHOICE".
blud
Both are great cues, both hit well, and play solid, however there will be a good deal of the way they hit. They will not hit the same or even close. Steel joints will also change the way it will hit and play. All of these are good cues. It's a matter of "CHOICE".
blud
D
dr. Jun Villon
Guest
one thing i learned from pros here in the philippines, they dont let anything about cues bother them. To some of them, they dont even check if its stright! they dont care about the weight, the shape of the shaft, the diameter, etc., etc., in fact they play for money using a cue they just borrowed on that same night. They still play well! i personally dont agree to this but i think its good to learn from them that little things should not bother a player. As they all say, "JUST PLAY."
BLud,
Thanks for the reply. I think you mean that with any cue, regardless of inlay/points/etc, it's the workmanship and wood selection that counts the most.
I'm also looking into maple-cored plain janes, like the ones Paul Dayton make. Seems like a solid hitting cue to me.
Thanks,
Roger
Thanks for the reply. I think you mean that with any cue, regardless of inlay/points/etc, it's the workmanship and wood selection that counts the most.
I'm also looking into maple-cored plain janes, like the ones Paul Dayton make. Seems like a solid hitting cue to me.
Thanks,
Roger