Is it possible to use one adhesive to construct an entire pool cue? Would something like a Devcon 2ton epoxy work for everything but the tip? Is the epoxy stronger in a wood to wood joint than a good yellow wood glue? I just dont understand the use for all the different glues. I heard one person say that they may use up to 10 different glues on one cue??? That just seems weird to me. Thanks for any help. Oh yeah where can I find good tooling? Thanks
one adhesive
- Thread starter firstcue
- Start date
If I were you, I would do some research on adhesives. You can call the tech department at any adhesive manufacturer and they can help you figure out what you need. Don't believe everything you read here in this group. Personally, I wouldn't use any glue that was for sale a K-mart, Walmart, and marketed at the general population for gluing up things like coffeecup handles and ceramics. There are many different kinds of glues to use; Yellow glue, white glue, contact cement, different viscosity liquid super glue, super glue gel, polyurethane glues, epoxies with different drying times...really depends on what you are doing! There are different epoxies that have different characteristics. There are also additives for the epoxies that give them more characteristics. I have six different kinds of epoxies I use...not counting the additives. If you count the brands of glues and additives, it would prolly be safe to say I have over 15 different adhesives in some cues. Good luck!firstcue said:
firstcue said:
No.
Regular off the shelf epoxy is too thick for doing operations like laminating veneers and gluing points into the forearm. The key to epoxy is the use the proper resin/hardner combination to give you the right viscosity/pot life for what you are doing.
I have heard of people using yellow or white glue in cue construction but I don't like the idea. The only thing I use it for is wraps.
Right now I have five different epoxys in my shop plus three CA glues, white glue and contact cement.
Ted Harris said:Personally, I wouldn't use any glue that was for sale a K-mart, Walmart, and marketed at the general population for gluing up things like coffeecup handles and ceramics.
LOL. That is the freaking truth.
Ted Harris said:
Murray Tucker said:
Not even the Duro brand super gel for gluing on tips?
Come on Guys ... there are always exceptions.
Why care about where it comes from if it works?
GolfSmith has a very good epoxy.
It is called Shafting Epoxy and is used to attach golf club heads onto the shafts.
Works great for the "A" joint, joint pin, butt sleeve, and rings.
But as Murray Tucker pointed out, is a bit thick for some jobs.
Takes 24 hours to set.
System Three five minute epoxy is normaly what I use for thread on ferrules.
It sets in about 25 minutes.
I never use a white glue like Elmers.
I use UHU stic adheasive for linen wraps.
(sold at Wal-Mart, K-Mart, and office supply stores)
.
Devcon Epoxy is sold at Walmart and I use the two ton for rings and butt sleeves, the Five minute for ferrules and Duro quick gel for most tips. I use West System for the wrap joint and other applications like stitch rings and such where thin vicosity is better. White Elmers for linen wraps. Then I use a thin Epoxy Cue Cote for finishing the cues. So one glue won't do all for me. But hey I know a cue maker who is allergic to epoxy and uses Gorilla Polyurethane Glue for almost everything. Oh yeah, that reminds me then there is Gorilla glue when coring forearms.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
I have 6 different viscocity CAs, 4 kinds of epoxies, 2 types of white resin glue, polyurethane glue and contact cement. Just about a glue for any combination of contact surface. You need to research on what would be optimal for the job as there are adhesives that won't bond well with some materials and some that don't tolerate improper use like the one that don't work well in moisture-starved jointing surfaces. But even with this variety of adhesives, I focus more on the mechanical configuration of the jointing surfaces. Too tight and you squeeze out the glue, too loose and you expose yourself to joint failure.
Edwin Reyes
Edwin Reyes
My question is have any seen it actually bust out the side of a cue? I doubt that will happen to anything, but maybe junk burls or something like that.BiG_JoN said:
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
bandido said:
That is a very good point, Edwin, it is one that Chris Hightower points out in his book on cuemaking. (shameless plug <g>)
Good for you to mention that as it is important to joint strength.
I havent seen it mentioned very many times elsewhere.
Sliding a tenon into its socket can wipe off almost all the glue if the fit is to tight. A little gap there is a good thing.
Someone starting off in cuemaking may not realise this and waste a lot of time and material trying to figure out why he is not getting good solid joints.
I think it is great that cuemakers like you and Bludworth are so willing to share information like this and help other aspiring cuemakers avoid the big potholes on the road of cuemaking.
firstcue said:
Most cuemakers will make a lot of their tooling as they need it.
Here are some sources you can contact to see if they can help you.
http://www.uniqueinc.com
http://www.cuesmith.com
http://www.prathercue.com/page cue parts/cue parts.html
http://www.cuecomponents.com/cuebuto.html
http://www.porper.com
And if that dont get you what you want you can contact Leonard Bludworth here on the fourm. He can make you just about anything you need.