Perhaps You May Be Able To Recommend or Possibly Help Me?
- Thread starter Bavafongoul
- Start date
I've added weight to 3 shafts now, one about .32 oz, one about .3 oz, and one about .28 oz. Quite simple actually if you have a cue lathe. Just drill and tap past your original joint threads about a 1/4" further than the distance needed for the threaded pin you are installing. Other than shaft weight or final cue balance, I can't imagine it in any way affecting how the shaft plays.
Even Mezz, or Predator, or one of the cue manufactures offers this as a feature on one of their shafts.
Even Mezz, or Predator, or one of the cue manufactures offers this as a feature on one of their shafts.
billiards_watch
Well-known member
I don't want to add to your problem but don't screw up what Mr. Runde, Scruggs, Prewitt Owen and Rauenzahn worked so hard on perfecting. Are you going to worry about balance? I still don't think its as simple as plug and play. Lets say it doesn't hit and play like it would with its original shaft but make sure you get the fit right.
Not all 250lb men are built the same.
You could make a long tiny hole and fill it with wire. Solder would be heavier. Weigh the stuff and any adhesive you need.
Herein lies the rub……..I have explained several times my approach to cue making not as a builder but as a buyer.
What I believe and have long espoused with friends and publicly on the Forum many times is my guiding principle.
Find out what weight ratio works best and stick to it just like all the very best known cue makers have done down
through the years and to this very day. There is a weight ratio scale and find out what works best and stick to it.
A cue shaft should represent 18-22% of the cue’s playing weight. Doesn’t matter if the shaft is piloted or flat faced.
My preference is for 22% and if you look at the weight of shafts made by contemporaneously and historically great
names in cue making, their cues coincided with this approach to a pool cue’s anatomical design. So I just want to try matching the weight of my cues original maple shafts with equivalent weight Kielwood shafts to keep things consistent.
I don’t expect others to embrace my approach but I do challenge those that dismiss this out of hand to sometime
research the cues built by names they might otherwise consider to be heralded names in cue making. The best cue
makers didn’t, and still don’t, build cues this way by coincidence. CF shafts have changed this drastically because of
the added power imparted, lower deflection and synthetic materials composition. But wood hasn’t changed as much.
What I believe and have long espoused with friends and publicly on the Forum many times is my guiding principle.
Find out what weight ratio works best and stick to it just like all the very best known cue makers have done down
through the years and to this very day. There is a weight ratio scale and find out what works best and stick to it.
A cue shaft should represent 18-22% of the cue’s playing weight. Doesn’t matter if the shaft is piloted or flat faced.
My preference is for 22% and if you look at the weight of shafts made by contemporaneously and historically great
names in cue making, their cues coincided with this approach to a pool cue’s anatomical design. So I just want to try matching the weight of my cues original maple shafts with equivalent weight Kielwood shafts to keep things consistent.
I don’t expect others to embrace my approach but I do challenge those that dismiss this out of hand to sometime
research the cues built by names they might otherwise consider to be heralded names in cue making. The best cue
makers didn’t, and still don’t, build cues this way by coincidence. CF shafts have changed this drastically because of
the added power imparted, lower deflection and synthetic materials composition. But wood hasn’t changed as much.
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Thank you for the comments and suggestions. The KW shafts I’ve been waiting on turned out lighter than anticipated so I have to locate a different cue maker. However, much to my delight, I’ve already spoken with someone ready to build a heavier version KW shaft that he’s already made for some clients. The best part is he doesn’t have to add any weight to the shafts.
billiards_watch
Well-known member
They are probably going to 'half bake' it. Instead of baking the entire thing and sucking the life out of it.
Similar to browning a piece of steak after the sous vide.
That's the only way I can think of for them to 'keep the weight'.
Now we're talking about shaft cooking and I am not familiar with the process.
Dunno about that…..what I know is the cue maker said he’s done it before and it is not that hard to do.
You have to select the right type of wood, weigh the blanks individually, categorize by cue weight range,
and maintain tight control over the torrification process. He has many hundreds of Kielwood blanks to
choose from and has built KW shafts over 4 ozs. before whereas others haven’t or don’t think it’s doable.
I happen to wholeheartedly concur with the cue maker and it was uplifting to hear that this isn’t just a mere
attempt and let’s see how close it turns out. Nope, this was more of anything else you want besides weight?
It was entirely a can do discussion instead of let’s see how it turns out or weight can be added around the collar.
The cue maker said everything was dependent on the wood selected and it was easy if you have the right wood.
Don’t misconstrue my comments to be brash, presumptuous, pontificating or anything other than I’m just passing
along, sort of sharing, news and developments on my thread pursuing a certain type of a Kielwood shaft. Hopefully,
others find this of some interest or are curious but I am learning along the way as are some readers of my posts.