Philosophy

RocketQ

RocketQ

It's Not Rocket Science
Silver Member
I know this is a little personal and you don't have to share in public or at all for that matter. Big can of worms.

What is your philosophy on cue making?
Mine: I build a cue to the customers specs or as close as I can with the following exceptions: I will not change my assembly method of the butt, rings, ferrule, joint pin, or finish type. I prefer to be able to use a solid wood not cored for a cue. Let the wood do the talking. Put the combinations together that feel good. Pay attention to what works. Pay attention to variations in the same wood. Heartwood or sap wood there is a difference.
I have talked to a bunch of other builders. I don't claim to have all the answers and probably never will. There are so many ways to skin that cat. Though I think I have a pretty good handle on most aspects. I don't take what any one not even my late Dad said as gospel. I have to be able to twist my brain around it and try it for myself, and then make an opinion. I take a challenge in any aspect of my life head on. There is no "It can't be done" but there is how long do you want to wait and what are you willing to pay.
If you want a cue built the same as a Moochi, I will try my best to talk you out of it but I will probably build it with the methods I use and no plastic/abs rings. Plastic/abs has no place in a cue. If that is not ok with you then I can't built it for you. The cue is a personal extension in design, functionality, and feel.
I think the laminates and combo maple and graphite shafts have are inevitable. There is only so much good maple out there. Maybe new technologies will produce better young maple for us.

I may never make any substantial money at cue making but if I decide to go full time I will never work another day in my life. I love the challenge, creativity, and constant change in the industry. Although this industry like many others has too many uneducated consumers. 'If the internet says it is good it must be good.' Guess what it doesn't quite work that way. Get out play with a couple try some new cues. Experience it for your self.

I know this is a little out there. But it's me thick skinned, don't hold back tell you what I think.

As a side I would like to thank any one out there who has twisted my brain in the slightest way. It has challenged me and ultimately helped me.
And have a happy new year.
 
RocketQ said:
I know this is a little personal and you don't have to share in public or at all for that matter. Big can of worms.

What is your philosophy on cue making?.
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I think this is a great question. In fact, in my standard questionnaire for cue makers for my articles, that's one of the questions. Often times, it's the toughest one to answer.

Fred
 
I will usually build the cue close to the customers desired look, unless i really think the design is something I would not want my name on. I usually refuse to change the joint or way the cue is assembled. I have built odd dimension cues to the cutomers specs and have regretted it every single time that I can think of. Often the customer finds this great idea he had, does not play all that well gets rid of it and the cue changes hands many times and you get a reputation of building that dimension cues. I have had customers request I build their cue thinner than my "normal" dimension only to find out they thought this really fat butt cue I had built for a player was my normal dimensions. My philosophy simply stated is this: I build one of the best hitting cues in the world for the type hit I tried to achieve. If you want a cue that hits like a Schon, buy a Schon. If you want a cue that hits like a Joss, buy a Joss. If you want a cue that hits like a Predator, buy a Predator. If you want a cue that hits like a Hightower, come see me.
 
cueman said:
If you want a cue that hits like a Schon, buy a Schon. If you want a cue that hits like a Joss, buy a Joss. If you want a cue that hits like a Predator, buy a Predator. If you want a cue that hits like a Hightower, come see me.
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Thats exactly how I feel. I recently turned down a cue because someone wanted me to build a cue to the size he wanted and I did'nt feel comfortable with that.. So respectfully declined the work..
 
One of the reasons I started this thread was another thead titled something like Who's cue hits like ^#%@. I got sucked in and read a bunch of posts and started thinking. Does the cuemaker get a bad name or rep because he builds a cue for someone that wants something they know wil probably play like poo? I don't think there are too many custom cues that play like poo to everyone.... Just to the person who doesn't like it. I used to like a real stiff cue .... when I had a good stroke. Now I like something with a little whip but still pretty firm. Now a moochie way too much whip but guys I have built cues for like em and like mine too. Firm good hit and yet forgiving.
 
John, from the sound of it, I believe I think alot along the same lines as You.

I started out liking the hit as hard as possible too, but Your stroke really has to be on every night, and it's not for everyone. When it works it works well, but to me takes several stroke types to best untilize it to the fullest, and well some nights only so many of those strokes are working for me. When it comes to others, I have found that one hit does not suit everyone, and more people then i expected actually like a softer hitting cue.. I understand the reputation part, and how dieviating away from ones designs could end up in others hands than the ones that the cue wasn't intended for, and how some feel that could hurt their rep down the road. I guess the question one has to ask is what is most important to them, satisfing the paying customer's request, or saving their rep, and rep is important in bussiness, so there is some conflict of interest in there somewhere IMO. I aggree with what has been said though about some people not really knowing what they need, and if you build to their specs, even they may not be pleased in the end. I prefer to stick with My basic design, but what I try to do is make changes in the wood types and ferrule types to soften up the feel some. I have yet to core a cue, so that limits design, but By having some sayso in the choice woods and their locations I am better able to control balance and hit, sometimes this means locating a wood in the handle when some may would prefer it in the forearm. Sometimes the wood type a customer likes the looks of just isn't the best type for the hit they want.

I often hear people mention they like alittle whip in the shaft. I'm begining to think most of that simply comes from them wanting a softer hit, not always that they actually need more whip in the shaft, just that their stroke type can't handle the hit as hard as I can build them, although some people love that. I tried this with one so customer and it worked out well. What I did was instead of using a whippy shaft, I still used a somewhat stiff shaft, but used a poly ferrule & softer tip. It made up for the abrupt contact stroke, but didn't allow as much deflection as a whippy shaft would. The wood in the butt was somewhat softer as to absorb the impact better, but as far as the joint, I still used phenolic. I really liked the feel Myself, and the customer seemed more then happy with the outcome. I'm sure they're not all gonna be like that, but It gave me a new outlook. in fact I quit playing with My hard hitting cue, went to another cue, and used an ABS type ferrule. It took some getting use to the softer feel, and there are still shots that I can do better with the hard hitter, but overall the change has improved My overall win percentage, even when I have a night where I'm struggling, It seems easier to survive the storm of competition.If I ever get a chance to build one to the specs I have in mind for Myself, I think I can improve on what I need for My own game some. The cue I'm playing with now is just a us production cue I modified and made up another quickie shaft for, but It's close to what I want to build with a few changes. I need alittle bit of a firmer shaft, and maybe a ferrule material that is more in the middle of the hardness rating. I also made the change from a piloted joint to a flat face with woods threads. I didn't dieviate too much on the tip though, still using a Med/Hard layered tip with the softer ferrule.

Up to this point I don't have a signature joint type, I have used all three of the standard size threads. Both the 5/16 threads and the 3/8. At the moment I'm doing 3/8 though. I know this could be argued, but i honestly think I can feel a difference in the feel of these. Well atleast the flat face woods threads as opposed to the 5/16 piloted. As far as whether I could pick them out in a line up experiement, I won't make false claims, because i have not tried it, so don't know for sure, but I think I could.

I've been in no hurry to jump into fulltime cuemaking for many reasons, and the amount of time I've been doing this can attest to that, but I'm still expierementing, and trying to learn different people's preffered hits, so that I can find several base cues with certain hits, to more easily match the person on demand. Half the battle is trying to translate the info they give you to go on. Sometimes It's just what You need, but other times you have to try and read between the lines It seems.

With this all said, One thing I won't do is dieviate too far out of the lines of My prefered construction technics, unless I'm doing a self experiement in My own research in the hopes of finding a better way.

I have never seen a cue that hit in a way that is perfect for everyone, so there's got to be some amount of flexibility, and I guess each peron has their own limits for different reasons. I use a straight tapered handle, so I'm kind of in the middle on joint size verses handle thickness. Some woods I've found you can go with a smaller joint OD then others, but My preference is to stay around or above .840, or so at finish size. Nothing is written in stone in that area for me yet though.

I could go on and on on construction thoughts, and this is long enough already, but I'm sure some of My preferences will change from experiences I have just as they have up to this point.

To answer the question, no I wouldn't intentionally build a cue I feel plays like crap, and i haven't read the thread you mentioned, but what your talking about here is different. I am a believer in making changes while keeping things firmer, but allows for more forgiveness at contact as it sounds like you are reffering to, because i do not believe that every type hit is perfect for everyone. I just haven't seen such a base model cue that worked that well without making changes. Some of them do meet in the middle pretty well though. As a repair guy before jumping into building though, I realize that changes can be made to a existing cue to better match the owner.:)

Greg
 
I feel the customer wants what he wants. as long as its structurely sound I'm ok.

I will not do anything funny. legnth always split. will make 30in shaft.

like chris said if its not something you don't want ppl to see then you shouldn't do it.
 
Mine's pretty straight forward..........

I won't build or compromise anything I don't believe in.
 
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I feel as most of you guys do. I was a player long before I was a builder , as I feel most of you were.
I play at a level where I feel I know what a cue should and shouldn't do. So with that in mind , I feel I build a cue for players. I do not do inlays , and have turned down tons of work due to this. Just a personal preference for me. I feel if you want tons of inlays and bling, there are lot's of makers out their for that. I like the classics and plain janes. I build a few sneaky's , but do not like using blanks to do so. I do not know how they are constructed , and for that reason , I don't like using them.
I turn down work all the time that I feel compromises the quality and playability of the cue. I do try to educate people on my reasons , and have changed many of designs due to this that has had nothing but great results. Some customers are very hardheaded and set in the way they want the cue , and I refer them to others. I feel refering people to those who can help them is a good thing.
I do not change at all in the design or assemble of any of my cues except for pins and maybe shaft size.
I have spent a load of cash and time figuring out what works and what doesn't. Like I said , I try to educate as we plane out their cue. So it helps out a ton.
I had a gentleman not to long ago ask , What is the holding value of your cues on the market as far as resell value? It sounds funny , but I couldn't answer him. All the cues I have built in the last 3 years are still in the hands of the people who bought them. So , no answer was given in numbers to this person.
I build my cues on 3 factors.
1.playability
2.Function
3.Long lasting performance
Unlike most , I do not build as my full time job even though it is on my mind most ogf the day. I do work a full time job and build cues out of passion and love for the game. I get knocked all the time that my prices are to low. I do not do inlays. I don't try to make my name on conversions or sneakies. But , it's just not me. I can hit your weight , shaft needs, and make a damn good hitting cue.
So in short , I do not change much as I feel I should not have to change me. My cues are my cues, if you don't like certain things about them , there are many more makers to quench your cue thirst. Some like sneakies , some do tons of inlays and so on. If you like a cue to play well , and do what it is designed to do , MAKE BALLS, then give me a call. If you want a pretty cue with all kinds of bling , well , do a google search.
Thanx,
Jim Lee
 
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