pin
- Thread starter LCCS
- Start date
heat the pin with a propane torch, this will transfer the heat to the epoxy which was used to install it and makes the epoxy soft. put some vise grips on the end of the pin and twist it out. i recommend sizing the vise grips first so your not fiddling with it after you've heated the pin.
carefully
clamp the butt in a vise using soft jaws and padding to preserve the butt finish. Then heat the screw to soften the glue holding it in. I use an electric soldering iron, others use a micro torch or propane. Grip the screw with vise grips and unthread it.
I assume you then want to install a new pin?
Then ideally: chase the threads with a tap to remove any old glue and install a new screw using a lathe and methods that any cuemaker would use. If you do not have a lathe, dry fit the new pin, and roll the butt on a flat surface. I hope the new pin seems to run true by eye? If so take your chances and glue it in. Use a slow cure epoxy, and first cut some ridges or flats in the thread surace of the pin that will be totally in the butt. That helps lock in that pin once the epoxy sets up.
If the pin bounces when dry testing it, take it to a cuemaker, he needs to test the butt for warp, and then if OK he needs to install the pin himself when chucked up in a lathe so he can tweak it and get it running close to true. JMHO.
clamp the butt in a vise using soft jaws and padding to preserve the butt finish. Then heat the screw to soften the glue holding it in. I use an electric soldering iron, others use a micro torch or propane. Grip the screw with vise grips and unthread it.
I assume you then want to install a new pin?
Then ideally: chase the threads with a tap to remove any old glue and install a new screw using a lathe and methods that any cuemaker would use. If you do not have a lathe, dry fit the new pin, and roll the butt on a flat surface. I hope the new pin seems to run true by eye? If so take your chances and glue it in. Use a slow cure epoxy, and first cut some ridges or flats in the thread surace of the pin that will be totally in the butt. That helps lock in that pin once the epoxy sets up.
If the pin bounces when dry testing it, take it to a cuemaker, he needs to test the butt for warp, and then if OK he needs to install the pin himself when chucked up in a lathe so he can tweak it and get it running close to true. JMHO.
Last edited:
Before You Heat That Pin
you may want to consider using a heat sink to minimize the heat transferring to other areas of the joint.
Heating the pin also allows heat to transfer to the joint/ring work and could cause them to loosen.
Get enough modeling clay to wrap around and cover the entire joint area (joint collar) and put it in the refrigerator long enough to get it cold. Just before you heat the pin wrap the cold clay around the joint.
you may want to consider using a heat sink to minimize the heat transferring to other areas of the joint.
Heating the pin also allows heat to transfer to the joint/ring work and could cause them to loosen.
Get enough modeling clay to wrap around and cover the entire joint area (joint collar) and put it in the refrigerator long enough to get it cold. Just before you heat the pin wrap the cold clay around the joint.
PIn
I really like the modeling clay idea, I'm putting that one in my bag of tricks.
Great idea. Only thing I would add is that you want to be pulling and twisting on the pin while you heat it. You want it to let go the minute the epoxy softens. Take your time and don't be in a rush to get it really hot. Most epoxies will break down just below boiling. Also repeated lite heatings will also help break down the epoxy. Remember, you can always heat it again, but if you cook the joint, it's toast.
I really like the modeling clay idea, I'm putting that one in my bag of tricks.
Great idea. Only thing I would add is that you want to be pulling and twisting on the pin while you heat it. You want it to let go the minute the epoxy softens. Take your time and don't be in a rush to get it really hot. Most epoxies will break down just below boiling. Also repeated lite heatings will also help break down the epoxy. Remember, you can always heat it again, but if you cook the joint, it's toast.
Heck that's nothing. You oughtta see the ash tray I madecutter said:
