Players cue vs Players pure x
- Thread starter jinxjx
- Start date
Big difference in the standard vs Pure X shafts, one is LD, other is not. Although the Players Pure X (HXT) shafts are not as LD as most others, especially the larger diameter one. As far as the butt is, both are same build and pin.
Someone I knew got one and sold it as SBE for more than what he paid for it used.
You just need 2 more posts to make it an average of one a year!
Someone I knew got one and sold it as SBE for more than what he paid for it used.
You just need 2 more posts to make it an average of one a year!
I'm pretty sure that the HXT butts have a slot for the pilot and regular palyers cues are flat faced so the HXT shaft wont fit on the standard Players butt. Maybe someone who has both can varify? I am not sure if there are any other differences in construction though.
HXT cues are excellent for the price in my opinion
HXT cues are excellent for the price in my opinion
NCC1515
New member
I have a 35+ year old Players plain Jane cue, butt finished to look like ebony, cost me $40 when I bought it new. It was my player for almost 10 years. Butt is straighter now, after all these years, than my $1600 'custom' ebony cue player, with beautiful recon stone inlays, which is only about 10 years old. The Players cue became my break cue, when I started finishing CF blanks into completed shafts. It's now my 'house' break cue, and still almost dead straight in the butt. I liked it with the factory (no-tech) shaft when it was my player, but you can get used to just playing with just about anything. My next player after that was a Predator PJ cue, with the first gen 314 shafts. Bottom line for me: If Players and their 'PureX' line are still as good or better than they used to be years ago, in terms of QC, their sticks should last and stay straight for decades - IF you take proper care. That means never leaving them in the trunk of your car, and minding that they don't get beat up while in use. Haven't seen any real inlays in them yet, but some of the decal designs are so good that I WISH they were real inlays. Have had at least one cue maker eyeing one of mine to figure out if the design was 'overlay' or inlay. The finish on them is so good though, that they will look good for decades - again, if you take care. I have four different PureX designs on hand right now, just so I can offer a newbie a very good looking and good finish quality cue, with a LD CF shaft, for far less than they'd pay for a new Predator or Cuetec.
As for the HXT shafts: They aren't as low deflection as the best LD offerings from Predator, Cuetec, et al, but I'd say they are about 80-90% as good. Certainly way better than a NO-tech shaft but again, you can learn to shoot lights out pool even with a NO-tech shaft, as long as you've gotten used to how much that shaft deflects on various speed/spin shots and you adjust your aim accordingly.
As for the HXT shafts: They aren't as low deflection as the best LD offerings from Predator, Cuetec, et al, but I'd say they are about 80-90% as good. Certainly way better than a NO-tech shaft but again, you can learn to shoot lights out pool even with a NO-tech shaft, as long as you've gotten used to how much that shaft deflects on various speed/spin shots and you adjust your aim accordingly.
I have a Players jump/break cue that I got almost 20 years ago, still like new.
Very nice wood as well.
A lot of these cues are made in the same factories, using the same knowledge and materials. The rest is just branding.
I don’t mind their PJ and SP, I just don’t like overly cues.
Very nice wood as well.
A lot of these cues are made in the same factories, using the same knowledge and materials. The rest is just branding.
I don’t mind their PJ and SP, I just don’t like overly cues.
NCC1515
New member
Missed the question in the original thread, and it's pretty old. Still: I've seen HXT shafts which are flat-faced and 'piloted'. Factory cues which are 'piloted' are rarely truly piloted, in examples I've seen, as there is little or no contact between the protrusion on the end of the shaft and its mating recess in the butt. I can't see any purpose in most of them. So the 'pilot' on a cheap cue's shaft usually doesn't do anything for the joint mating - the shaft might as well be flat-faced. Piloting in a cue joint, if done with intent and precision, ends up having some contact/friction between the shaft protrusion and the butt recess, which is supposed to result in increased 'intimate' contact area between the two pieces (to borrow a phrase from Mr. Dzuricky, although he was talking about 'modified' pin threads) in the joint.
The person who's question you replied to has not been on AZB since 2018 LOL I was wondering why there was a notification on a 7 yr old post.
New members have an uncanny knack of finding and responding to old, if not ancient, threads.