This tool looks an very overly simplified Willard tip tool as both have cutting blades that you initially adjust and then gradually smaller as the tip is trimmed down, which could be challenging if you do not get the tip glued on squarely. Yes, I've watched the Willard tip installer video and it is quite slick, but I am not sure if I want to invest that much now.
Now back to the Porper Cut-Rite. Given the back on the nickel tip shaper is solid, which could act as a backing for some blue tape on the top of a new 13mm tip, and the blade adjusted to 13mm, would the tip be centered once the blue tape stuck to the backing using a clean ferrule to push the tip in? Then if I adjusted the blade down to 12.5mm (most of my playing shafts are this size) and got some glue on the tip, would owners of the Cut-Rite agree the tip should be (mostly) well centered and then the trimming, shaping and burnishing happens afterwards? I would probably invest in a dime Willard shaper also to finish shaping after using the Porper nickel shaper side that seems to guide the cue in enough to shape it squarely / evenly.
Curious if this is possible and TIA...
Now back to the Porper Cut-Rite. Given the back on the nickel tip shaper is solid, which could act as a backing for some blue tape on the top of a new 13mm tip, and the blade adjusted to 13mm, would the tip be centered once the blue tape stuck to the backing using a clean ferrule to push the tip in? Then if I adjusted the blade down to 12.5mm (most of my playing shafts are this size) and got some glue on the tip, would owners of the Cut-Rite agree the tip should be (mostly) well centered and then the trimming, shaping and burnishing happens afterwards? I would probably invest in a dime Willard shaper also to finish shaping after using the Porper nickel shaper side that seems to guide the cue in enough to shape it squarely / evenly.
Curious if this is possible and TIA...