lewdo26 said:
Thanks for the responses. I had no idea that they dealt in seconds, Jack. It's a shame and worth the heads up. In fact, I got this cue last summer and it seems too soon for a warp. CC, I looked at all the possible problems you mentioned in your post. I keep my threads squeaky clean and the butt and joints are sound, it looks to me. The warp is slight and exactly on the taper section.
Thanks the DX-8 shaft offer, btw. But I think if I buy another shaft it will be something better. What are the shafts that are compatible with my joint? One last question, do you think then it might not be worth it to try and recondition it because it will pop right back? I do not know of any home-made methods of reconditioning. If there is something I could do that wouldn't be done much more efficiently by a cue repairman, then I'll try it. I just don't know what the reconditioning process entails!
Thanks again.
I am glad, because i would have felt bad, I looked around alittle for the shaft and could not find It anyway, so must have sold It to one of our customers. We have a few regulars that have cues from that series, so someone probably bought It for an extra. I sold a set of caps for one last night as a matter of fact. I have not had any shafts from those come in warped that bad yet as far as I have noticed, no more runout then most shafts have when I mount them in the lathe, and the humidity It high here. could have just been a good batch they came from If they are known for It. The reason I mentioned looking around the joint was, I have seen one that broke off right below the ss joint. Heard on the grapevine there was a quality control issue on a few that slipped through. one thing I do know was they shipped the guy a brand new one no questions asked.
Yes jack is correct, from my experience trying to fix a warped shaft is a waste of effort, Others may have a method, but to me that wood is just going to move where it wants no matter what you do. you could keep your cue hanging all the time, might help some, I've done that, but to be honest before the end of the night was out the thing had already moved back. the only way I know is to cut It out, but not usually an option with a used shaft. Guess It would depend on how severe the warp, but most cases would be a no go on that in my opinion.
Not sure what you are talking about on the refinshing, the warp, or refinishing a regular shaft without problems. My shaft work is all done on a lathe these days, I have done them By hand in the begining, a long time ago, and some of the methods I have used I could never recomend. It's always easy to spot a tip job done by hand, because alot of times the tip and end of the ferrule will be tapered from hand sanding, and I don't even want to mention what you can do to a shaft by hand. The only way to go in my opinion knowing what I know now, is with the use of atleast a wood lathe with the proper centers to refinish a shaft. usually there are actually 2 finishes on a shaft, the part up by the ring work finished the same as the butt section, and a shaft sealer on the taper part in some cases. If I do the part around the rings also, then I consider the job a total restoration, It takes alot longer, and many sessions to do properly in most cases. the one you should have done most often to keep your shaft in good shape & clean requires cleaning and resealing the taper/stroking area of the shaft, and evening the ferrule with the wood if needed. that can be done in one sitting by any good cue repair guy with the proper equipment, and I would consider that just regular maintainence, or a partial restore. Not sure I answered your question, but hope it helps. Greg
