Shaft repair

Hierovision

Hierovision

Dios mio, man.
Silver Member
I've had this shaft (pred-z) for over 2 years and occasionally I would use some cleaner and q-slick to bring it back to feeling/looking like new. A couple months ago it got this not-so-smooth feeling to it, so I tried cleaning and slicking it again. Didn't get it back to how it usually is, so this past weekend I had a house maintainer re-finish it for $5 and it still feels relatively rough to how it used to be.

Is there something extra I have to ask for? I want it to be as smooth as ice with no friction on my fingers.
 
Hierovision said:
I've had this shaft (pred-z) for over 2 years and occasionally I would use some cleaner and q-slick to bring it back to feeling/looking like new. A couple months ago it got this not-so-smooth feeling to it, so I tried cleaning and slicking it again. Didn't get it back to how it usually is, so this past weekend I had a house maintainer re-finish it for $5 and it still feels relatively rough to how it used to be.

Is there something extra I have to ask for? I want it to be as smooth as ice with no friction on my fingers.
Click to expand...

It probably got wet or at least humid somehow, in which case it would need to be sanded, sealed and polished correctly. Not having seen it, I can't speculate any better than that.
 
Along the same lines...

My friend nicked her 314-2 shaft pretty badly. She was wondering how she can get the nick out without sanding it down. Any ideas?
 
I've removed a dent from my other cue's shaft with an iron and a damp paper towel, but seeing the above post... that probably isn't the best idea :p
 
There is three ways I have seen them repaired. With out sanding it down.

You can try this yourself,put a drop of water in the nick and wait until it is absorbed and swells the wood back up. You might have to do it a couple of times, then lightly sand it with 1500-2000 grit paper.

Take it to a cue repair man and he will put it on a lathe and steam it out then lightly hit it with sand paper just enough to slick it up.

If that does not work he can put a drop of super glue on the nick and spin it on the lathe and polish it.

I had my nicks repaired by cue man and it should cost you around $7-$10 dollars, that included the shaft,clean ferrule,reshape and burnish tip. I watched him do three of my shafts and they came out slick llke glass.
 
I'll take it to the guy at Q-masters and see what he can do. If he can't get it like glass again it's time to save up for a 314.
 
I like q-silk myself to give the shaft a glass finish with the filament papers, it last longer,
I have repaired deep dings by dabbing really hot water on ding and then buffing the ding out with a glass rod, works well if you only have one ding, it is a pain if you have several
 
I like taking dings out with a piece of un-dyed leather, spinning the cue on the lathe. If it's really deep, put a drop of water directly into it, and let it soak a bit. Then, with the un-dyed leather moistened with a bit of water, spin the cue, and lightly grip the area of the ding with the leather. The idea is to heat up the area just enough to raise the ding -- and no more, especially with laminated shafts. I like to grip the shaft with the leather from underneath, and use the other had to feel the ding. When it stops "thumping" under your finger, it's done. It's possible to very carefully control the amount of heat with this method -- from just warm to steaming.
 
If you try to buff out a dent with a glass rod, you are just making the dent bigger, and the shaft out of round. I would NEVER use a glass rod to dent my shaft.

Rodney
 
cuetique said:
I like taking dings out with a piece of un-dyed leather, spinning the cue on the lathe. If it's really deep, put a drop of water directly into it, and let it soak a bit. Then, with the un-dyed leather moistened with a bit of water, spin the cue, and lightly grip the area of the ding with the leather. The idea is to heat up the area just enough to raise the ding -- and no more, especially with laminated shafts. I like to grip the shaft with the leather from underneath, and use the other had to feel the ding. When it stops "thumping" under your finger, it's done. It's possible to very carefully control the amount of heat with this method -- from just warm to steaming.
Click to expand...

I've been doing it very similarly for years. Instead of using water try Ammonia or if none available then something with Ammonia in it like Windex. Ammonia is thinner than water so it soaks in faster and deeper and it turns to a vapor at a lower tempature for bringing out a dent.

Dick
 
Well, now -- that one deserves a "Betty Crocker Happy Homemaker Award of the Day" :D

I will try ammonia on my next ding repair. Interesting concept, lower boiling point and all.

Thanks
 
dbyap said:
I like q-silk myself to give the shaft a glass finish with the filament papers, it last longer,
I have repaired deep dings by dabbing really hot water on ding and then buffing the ding out with a glass rod, works well if you only have one ding, it is a pain if you have several
Click to expand...


Note for predator shaft owners DO NOT and i repeat DO NOT use excessive amounts of hot water on a pred shaft. If you do use the "steam a dent" out trick be VERY CAREFUL, and NEVER use straight steam. Best to use drops of hot water and work the dent out very slowly. I ruined my old pred shaft the glue came loose on it do to the steam and after playing with it for a while the pie splice line split apart. If this happens predator WILL NOT warrenty the shaft. So be very weary when trying this.
 
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